1966 'stang been stored for 20 years

5.0StangRacer · May 12, 2005

I have been recently offered a 1966 Mustang Hardtop with a 2-barrel C-Code 289 with an automatic. The car is all orginal and has a vinyl top and the Deluxe Pony Interior. The car was put in storage in a house garage (not climate-controlled) by a Navy-wife in 1985 who planned on returning to it but never got around to it. I accepted her offer of taking the car off her hands, but since I've always worked with fuel injected cars no older than 1986, and have never attempted restoration on any kind of car, I'm about to ask a very broad question...where do I start? the car ran fine when it was put in storage, and i havent seen it yet, but i was told there was minor rust and it hasnt been started since '85 when it was parked...so if anyone has any kind of advice, it would be welcomed! thanks....if you wish to email me...its Tempest121786@AOL.com. thanks!

84convertablegt · May 12, 2005

i would not try and drive it home. too many brake type, belt type things that could be dry rotted and cause you serious problems. once home, change all the fluids i.e. oil, drain gas from carb, tank, replace with new. change fuel filter, plugs, wires, belts, hoses, etc. drain radiator and flush cooling system, replace thermostat the list could go on, but this will get you going. basically everything is probably all gunked up and im sure the gas is long dead.... then go ahead and fire it up. it will probably take a while and since you are used to fuel injection, be ready for some gas pedal pumping. from there, and until u know more about the condition of the car, cant help u much more

5.0StangRacer · May 12, 2005

thanks for the advice, cant wait to get it home and start working on it

rusted-resto · May 12, 2005

Rust is a bad thing. The first thing I would do is find it and fix it or it will spread like wild fire. And pull the engine and give it a thorough makeover. This all depends on what you want to do with the car though.

highhorseb · May 12, 2005

I sent you an email so as not to post a novel on here.

McCauley · Apr 20, 2008

My Dad gave me his 66 sprint he bought in 69 and drove into his garage in 1985 and never drove again.... So many things are messed up, hoses, belts, fuel tank, carb, lifters.....He says "it ran when I parked it." Everytime I think it is ready to go... something else goes south. You have a Project and don't even think of driving it home.

JDS68Stang · Apr 20, 2008

First thing I would do is drain and change that oil and filter.
Second, take out all the plugs and add some lubricant into each cylinder, I'd research more on what to put in first to loosen anything stuck as well (seafoam?).
Drain/syphon any old gas out first before the new gas.
Unhook that coil wire and crank the motor over a while to hopefully get some oil into the crank shaft bearings, fire it up and keep the RPMs low, don't rev it.

Let us know what you did and how it worked out.
I wouldn't replace everything untill you know its going to run.
Research "acetone" on here, I've heard of it being used to clean the fuel system but never tried it myself.

mrmustangman357 · Apr 21, 2008

yeah i agree with JDS +1

also check the dizzy and cap. check all fluids (including transmission) and try and fire er up. another thing, before it drives, pull the drums off and check for leaxy wheel cylinders, then change the master cylinder for a dual bowl cylinder

AND POST PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A67StangMaster · Apr 21, 2008

JDS68Stang said:
I wouldn't replace everything untill you know its going to run.
Research "acetone" on here, I've heard of it being used to clean the fuel system but never tried it myself.

1+

Acetone is a good varnish cleaner.
1.Since gas over time turns into varnish ( a gunky sticky mess) pull the fuel lines out and tank clean with eather 100% Acetone Nail polish remover OR Paint tinner make sure you shake and let it sit, then add some good gas with some Seafoam to the tank it will help clean eveything over the first tank full.
2. Make sure you change all the fluids.
3. Check the CARB pull and clean everything, watch out for a backfire it will fry your hair off.
4. Check the ignition make sure you have 12volts comming to the dissy.
5. Prime the oil from the dissy.
6. Add some WD-40 or Liquid wrench into each cylinder and let it sit for 30 mins.
7. DO NOT DRIVE IT untill you know for a fact it can stop. (Ask me how I know, lets just say there was no break fluid )
8. Thats it. have fun with the rust. lol

izzy jr · Apr 21, 2008

Definately inspect all the brakes and lines. If the rubber lines are all dried out and cracked you might as well swap them out right off the bat they're not very expensive. Make sure you have a good set of line wrenches or flare wrenches and soak the fittings in wd40 before disconnecting.

Tim65GT · Apr 21, 2008

Welcome to classics

Before cranking, pull the fuel line off the carb and route it into a coffee can with a length of rubber hose. If you get fuel, it will be the nasty stuff, so purge it out. You will also see how much dirt, rust and crap comes out.

If you don't get fuel it could be clogged at the sending unit sock/strainer or the low areas of the fuel line near the tank. Mine was at both, and it sat for only ten years. Another possibility is the Fuel pump diaphram dried out and has a hole.

Good Luckand enjoy.

krash kendall · Apr 21, 2008

The brake slave cylinders will most likely be seized, which means that when you stomp on the brake pedal the brakes will most likely lock up and not release making towing or pushing it out of the garage a real pain. Just gingerly check them to see if you have any pedal movement. If there is any resistance then leave them alone untill you get it home.

Mark_69 · Apr 22, 2008

When I started mine, I was really young and made some mistakes that maybe could help you.

1. When you take things off the car, label them immediately and put parts into separate boxes for each type of car part. Put screws into ziplock bags, label it with a Sharpie marker and tape the bag to the items the screws came from.

2. While you can buy a lot of items new from mustang catalogs, try to keep and restore as much as you can. All those little parts can add up to a ton of money. You can clean and repaint a lot of parts. Don't throw anything away unless you really are sure it can, or should be replaced. If you aren't using a part, consider tossing it on ebay or here. Anyone want to smack me for tossing a complete rim-blow steering wheel or clutch pedal setup from a '69 mach? I was 13, what did I know... If in doubt, post a question on the forum.

3. Take reference photos.

4. Do your research on everything.

5. Plan your end result before you start. Think about upgrades to the suspension, brakes, etc.

6. The hardest part is the prep work. Once the car is stripped clean and painted, it is so much easier to slap the parts back on.
Good luck.

Edster · Apr 22, 2008

Wow! Your in for a long haul!

Best thing to do is take it slow and do it right. I have a siilar situation with mine but it had only sat 10 years. I just replaced the fuel tank (rust), then the fuel pump(broken valves), and had to rebuild the carburetor. Among other things. I"ll try not to repeat what everyone else is saying. Carburetors are simple yet more complex 9due to idle cicuits and the like)than fuel injection in some respects. Maybe a little harder to troubleshoot than EFI but they are less likely to leave you stranded than EFI. You can limp a car home on a bad carb. Same thin is sto be said about points ignition when they fail. A set of points and condenser is cheap compared to a new electronic ignition although not as accurate and consistent as an electronic ignition.

Good luck! May the adventure begin!

1966 'stang been stored for 20 years

5.0StangRacer

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84convertablegt

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rusted-resto

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McCauley

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