Hello I am new to this so I hope this is in the right place...I recently did a c4 to t5 swap in my 67. I used mostly parts from modern driveline and after putting the motor and transmission back in the car it will not crank. Also while out I replaced some thinkg on the motor such as timing belt cover, harmonic balancer, crank pulley, valve covers, and pulley's. When you turn the key it just clanks like it is bound up. Removed the starter and tried to turn the crank by hand and it will not turn. Removed plugs and I am still unable to turn the crank by hand. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
Engine 1967 289 T5 Swap NO Crank after putting everything back in.
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horse sence
15 Year Member
To long of flywheel bolts comes to mind . Is it the correct flywheel for the bellhousing ,see if the teeth are touching
The flywheel came from modern driveline and so did the bolts when you say to see if the teeth are touching what should they be touching?
horse sence
15 Year Member
Step 1: Take it all back apart.
Step 2: Take pictures of each part individually
Step 3: Write down any visible part numbers, write these part numbers on tape and stick to each part.
Step 4: Count the teeth on the flywheel twice
Step 5: Take two aspirin and in the morning post pictures of these parts with the tape showing with the part numbers.
I'm not saying all this to be a smart azz. Ford has had so many variations in their parts, sometimes yearly that even the seasoned hobbyist/enthusiast can be stumped by something that should be relatively simple. Also a good tip is to study the FoMoCo numbering system. You can tell a lot by a Ford part number.
By the way, what is the part number on the bell housing?
Step 2: Take pictures of each part individually
Step 3: Write down any visible part numbers, write these part numbers on tape and stick to each part.
Step 4: Count the teeth on the flywheel twice
Step 5: Take two aspirin and in the morning post pictures of these parts with the tape showing with the part numbers.
I'm not saying all this to be a smart azz. Ford has had so many variations in their parts, sometimes yearly that even the seasoned hobbyist/enthusiast can be stumped by something that should be relatively simple. Also a good tip is to study the FoMoCo numbering system. You can tell a lot by a Ford part number.
By the way, what is the part number on the bell housing?
horse sence
15 Year Member
That is why i am thinking about the flywheel bell housing ,the wrong tooth flywheel and bell housing could have the teeth into the housing and it still went to gether . But then again it could still be the flywheel bolts ,some flywheels use a shorter bolt because the fly wheel is thinner ,i have personally seen this ,the to long bolt hits the rear main cap inside and the crank will not turn ,and that is a good thing if this is the problem because it kept the bolts from destroying the main cap and filling the oil pan with metal
tos
Founding Member
Is this a new t5 or used? Have you tried to rotate the engine with someone pushing in on the clutch?
I'm just going to throw some other possibilities out there.
1. If its a used t5 its possibly locked up? (hence checking rotation with clutch pushed in).
2. Wrong bell housing causing tranny clearance issues with clutch plate.
3. New timing chain cover and balancer contact?
4. Pully bolts too long and bottoming out against the timing cover?
Any pictures?
I'm just going to throw some other possibilities out there.
1. If its a used t5 its possibly locked up? (hence checking rotation with clutch pushed in).
2. Wrong bell housing causing tranny clearance issues with clutch plate.
3. New timing chain cover and balancer contact?
4. Pully bolts too long and bottoming out against the timing cover?
Any pictures?
Thanks for all the suggestions....so I went home last night after work and pulled the tranny out and motor turns freely. Noticed some scoring on the bellhousing so we painted the inside of the bellhousing and bolted it back up too see what exactly was hitting. Once we had it bolted back up then we found that nothing was hitting and the motor was still turning freely. So we then decided to slide the transmission back in. Once we slid the transmission back in everything went back in and the holes lined up so we started to bolt it up. Once the transmission was in and bolts were tight same issue...motor would no longer turn by hand. Transmission will turn so I can't figure out what is hitting.
tos
Founding Member
Can you push the clutch in and does it move freely?
can you spin the input shaft freely when the tranny is out?
input shaft/throwout bearing support is possibly bottoming out against the clutch plate
can you spin the input shaft freely when the tranny is out?
input shaft/throwout bearing support is possibly bottoming out against the clutch plate
tos
Founding Member
The reason I asked if the clutch operates freely is to determine if there is free movement of the throwout bearing and if the clutch feels as though it is operating freely.
Next - Does the tranny push all the way up to the engine block by hand or are you having to draw it up with the bell housing bolts?
Next - Does the tranny push all the way up to the engine block by hand or are you having to draw it up with the bell housing bolts?
Sorry I have not updated yet.....been busy with work. So I took some measurements of the input shaft and the bearing retainer and it turns out that the guy who sold me the transmission had lied to me telling me what it came out of. No tag on the transmission so I took his word and it turns out that the transmission came out of a 94/95 mustang and was too long. So after speaking with the guys at Modern Driveline they got me straight with an extension plate. Thanks for all your advice and suggestions.
horse sence
15 Year Member
T5 is around 3/4 inch longer that the top loader ,if you have the stock 67 bell housing it will not be deep enough and it will require a spacer ,or you can use the t5 bell housing with the propper flywheel for the 289-302 motor balance ,could have figured it out right away with pics
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