1968 289 H2O

Some Random Bits Of Information

I used the rubber hose trick on the connecting rod studs to protect things from getting scratched. I also learned what the difference between fuel line and fuel injection hose is... yeah it's about $3.00 bucks per foot, LOL. My old hose was too brittle and starter cracking so I went to Pep Boys to buy some new stuff. Got 3 feet of 1/4 inch and 3 feet of 5/16 hose.

Check out how clean the old oil filter is, that's amazing.

Finally I learned there are holes in the crank journals big enough for me to shove the red straw from my WD-40 can through. I recon these are for lubrication, but who knew?

Cylinders 1-4

At .030 over I don't have much wiggle room, I believe it's common to go .040 over so maybe there's some machining left to do. The cylinders on the east side look good no ridges on the top like you can normally see or feel (since the pistons don't reach all the way to the top normally), except for the top skirt wear on piston number 1, here are some pics. I honestly don't know if that was wear and tear or if it got rubbed that way when I was tapping it out, what do you guys think?












Pictures of the west side pistons and cylinders coming soon...

65ShelbyClone said:

I think that happened when the engine was running. All this time I have been wondering why someone would let a fresh engine sleep with the fishes and now it's becoming apparent.

Click to expand...

Do tell?

mustangmutt said:

I did notice in one pic that there was a broken Compression ring. If who ever assembled the engine broke it...

Click to expand...

Why in the world would you assume the assembler shoved a broken ring in the motor, that is sick man, sick I tell you. Rings are cheap and I doubt they shoved a halved ring in upon rebuild, it is very common for rings to snap do to wear and tear, heating and cooling, sittin' an' runnin'.

Pistons, Weddings, Texas & Time

Well I don't know how you get your stuck pistons out, but here's what worked for me. After trying to tap it from the top and from the bottom whilst bathing it in WD40 to no avail, (yes I did use whilst, LOL) it was time to get serious.

So I went looking for some trusty ol' transmission fluid and having found none, I grabbed a can of DOT 3 brake fluid. Since the cylinders are at an angle, I could only poor enough fluid to cover approximately half of the piston. But since the skirts are at North and South or 12 and 6 o'clock positions I figured at least one of them will get a bath.

Then I boarded the plane and flew to Texas for a wedding.

Now I know what you are thinking Texas! Really? Well I'm just telling you what worked for me that's all, if you wanna try your luck with Tteenneessee or New Mexico go right ahead.

Anyway when I came back about a week later, I scooped out the left over fluid with some paper towels, shot some PB Blaster and shoved some cut up 2x4 blocks in the hole and bolted the old head back on... all the way tight and it felt like it gave a bit. Once it was on I didn't wait none, I just removed the head, and went back to tapping the piston gently around the circumference and whalla it gave. Then it was a bit of back and forthing up and down, up and down, and she came right out.

Removing Pistons 5-8

ok, got all the pistons out now, and all but #1 shown earlier above, look good

woodsnake said:

I have to retract my previous offer for a cheap intake, as I bought a 71 FB, and now will be using it for that application

Click to expand...

No worries I picked one up at a swap meet for $20 bucks so I got 2 two barrel ones to choose from and 1 four barrel one.

Cylinders 5-8

and here are the other cylinders 5 through 8, eight being the worst one, it has rust on the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder walls, the rings do not go down that low, so I hope cleaning off the rust and honing will bring it back to life, but all these things are adding up, one scratched piston here, one rusty cylinder there, one stuck lifter here, etc, etc...