Well that sounds pretty reassuring! Do you have any pics that I could look at?
Thanks
Well that sounds pretty reassuring! Do you have any pics that I could look at?They are in Christine. It was a v6 /auto and now has a 302 /T5. I have all 3 major brands on different cars or at different times. The hookers blow the others away. The hookers are the best fitting headers of the bunch. I have 2 brand new sets of hedmans sitting here now and am saving up for hookers for the Mach I. The hedmans are just not worth it after using the hookers. They dropped right in. No trimming of the strut rod. No hammering at the steering shaft. They just fit.
Yeah, with that engine the manifolds will be restrictive for sure. 65 mustang headers don't fit, 65 mustang HiPo manifold will also not fit. Fox shortys don't fit. As I said the only product that could(!) fit are the JBA mid-length. But I think with the experience @IICrew has with the hookers, and because they are in the same $$$ range as the JBAs I would not start messing with a custom setup. I had the manifolds already laying around and with my engine that is setup for low end torque, I didn't want to spend money on that... at least at that time.My dad saw your thread and we both liked the work you did and planned on copying it. My main concern was the manifolds being restrictive. My engine is a 302 .30 over. It has a mild cam. I have an edelbrock 289 series intake and a 600 cfm edelbrock carb. I have AFR 165cc Aluminum heads. My concern was the manifold suffocating the heads. I was also wondering if a stock header replacement for a 65 would work in the place of the manifolds.
When the time comes, this is what I’ll do.I have all 3 major brands on different cars or at different times. The hookers blow the others away. The hookers are the best fitting headers of the bunch
189.5Guess the number of drilled spot welds and win a prize;
The windsheild had a big crack already so I didn’t save it. The flanges were really clean so I won’t have to repair them. It attaches to the a pillars more towards the bottom. Ill be able to seal the bottom but not the bottom of the top piece once its welded on.Wow look at that cowl getting peeled open!
Getting after it for sure!
Were you able to save the windshield?
Is the spot welded flange intack or does it need patching too?
Will you be able to seal up the back side?
Doesn’t attach to A .pillers right?
Can we have more pictures? including back sides of both upper and lower cowl?
Dads the Man! helping out on this! Old Guys Rule!
I’m gonna get to do this. but hard to do with engine in I bet.
Step Right Up.
Guess the number of drilled spot welds and win a prize;
I Guess 108.
No I was thinking of using a modern box. My dad has a 67 cougar and we used a box from old auto air. With those boxes they close up the vents. I was going to use the factory stuff and even bought a factory A/C system which was a fortune but I decided I would want to stick with the new box as it is more efficient and about 1/3 of the size. The holes at that point were just where water would collect so I closed them. I will be keeping the grille though! I don't really think they ever look right without them.Nice work! Because you closed the openings for heater/air, are you thinking about closing the "grille" in the cowl vent, too?
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