1976 Cobra build

They are in Christine. It was a v6 /auto and now has a 302 /T5. I have all 3 major brands on different cars or at different times. The hookers blow the others away. The hookers are the best fitting headers of the bunch. I have 2 brand new sets of hedmans sitting here now and am saving up for hookers for the Mach I. The hedmans are just not worth it after using the hookers. They dropped right in. No trimming of the strut rod. No hammering at the steering shaft. They just fit.
Well that sounds pretty reassuring! Do you have any pics that I could look at?
Thanks
 
My dad saw your thread and we both liked the work you did and planned on copying it. My main concern was the manifolds being restrictive. My engine is a 302 .30 over. It has a mild cam. I have an edelbrock 289 series intake and a 600 cfm edelbrock carb. I have AFR 165cc Aluminum heads. My concern was the manifold suffocating the heads. I was also wondering if a stock header replacement for a 65 would work in the place of the manifolds.
Yeah, with that engine the manifolds will be restrictive for sure. 65 mustang headers don't fit, 65 mustang HiPo manifold will also not fit. Fox shortys don't fit. As I said the only product that could(!) fit are the JBA mid-length. But I think with the experience @IICrew has with the hookers, and because they are in the same $$$ range as the JBAs I would not start messing with a custom setup. I had the manifolds already laying around and with my engine that is setup for low end torque, I didn't want to spend money on that... at least at that time.
 
I do not have engine bay pics of the hookers yet. The pics in my build thread are the old blackjacks. They fit pretty good but I had to use a bfh to get clearance at the steering shaft. Fitment wise the two sets are very similar except at the steering shaft. The hookers went in without any adjustments. They hug the block closer vs the blackjacks. I do not know what gauge they are both made of but my set of blackjacks are noticeably lighter. Where the pipe is welded to the flange at the head is thinner on the blackjacks. Not much sealing surface. That mounting flange is also thinner. I had a hard time keeping them sealed there. I used regular, double layer steel, then double layer copper gaskets. I always had the header tick. It was better with the copper but still there. I have a ground down 3/8 wrench I carried with me all the time to snug them up.

The hookers sealed fine using the copper double layer gaskets. The only problem I had using them and the double layered gaskets was needing longer header bolts. I have put about 2,000 miles on the hookers and have not needed to re-tighten the header bolts. I had to do it repeatedly on the blackjacks.

The hedmans I have were new. One set still in the box. They came with project II's I picked up along the way. One set is on the Mach I now. The last posts in that build thread covers the problems they presented. I know others have used them with success. Both of my sets are bent wrong out of the box. The are parallel at the flange and collector but should have a mild kick down. As is they are too close to the floor and crossmember. Once the collector flange is on there is not enough room for a pipe to clear the crossmember. That car is a stock 302/4 speed. I could try to bend them downward but then I still have the one pipe going under the front crossmember. It would probably be okay on the Mach I as it sits higher but I would certainly smash it on Christine as she sits lower.
 
Reading about the sealing issues @IICrew has... you do not have them with manifolds. I could not believe, that they are mounted without gasket. A friend said just use a little bit high temp silicone. It works really well. Because I bought a new set of this 65 specific locking-sheet-metal-things, I have no issue with loose bolts or leaks compared to my experience with headers on my 65 coupe:
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Cowl is apart. Patch is made. Will be welding patch in tomorrow. This was me and my dad working on it today.
 

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Wow look at that cowl getting peeled open!
Getting after it for sure!

Were you able to save the windshield?
Is the spot welded flange intack or does it need patching too?
Will you be able to seal up the back side?
Doesn’t attach to A .pillers right?
Can we have more pictures? including back sides of both upper and lower cowl?

Dads the Man! helping out on this! Old Guys Rule!

I’m gonna get to do this. but hard to do with engine in I bet.


Step Right Up.
Guess the number of drilled spot welds and win a prize;

I Guess 108.
 
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Taping off all the glass. The windshield I didn’t bother saving as it had a big crack up the middle already. I will have to count the spot welds and get more pics of the cowl.
 

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Wow look at that cowl getting peeled open!
Getting after it for sure!

Were you able to save the windshield?
Is the spot welded flange intack or does it need patching too?
Will you be able to seal up the back side?
Doesn’t attach to A .pillers right?
Can we have more pictures? including back sides of both upper and lower cowl?

Dads the Man! helping out on this! Old Guys Rule!

I’m gonna get to do this. but hard to do with engine in I bet.


Step Right Up.
Guess the number of drilled spot welds and win a prize;

I Guess 108.
The windsheild had a big crack already so I didn’t save it. The flanges were really clean so I won’t have to repair them. It attaches to the a pillars more towards the bottom. Ill be able to seal the bottom but not the bottom of the top piece once its welded on.
Ill get more pics
With engine with be really difficult I think. If you have an interior in your car it would be even tougher.
 
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My dad gpt the patch all welded in. Tomorrow we have a few more patches to do. Then I go back to school. Will have to wait until next weekend to paint it.
 

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My dad got the rest of the patches in today. He did an amazing job. Not many people would bother with a Mustang II. He convinced me to fix it.
 

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Nice work! Because you closed the openings for heater/air, are you thinking about closing the "grille" in the cowl vent, too?
No I was thinking of using a modern box. My dad has a 67 cougar and we used a box from old auto air. With those boxes they close up the vents. I was going to use the factory stuff and even bought a factory A/C system which was a fortune but I decided I would want to stick with the new box as it is more efficient and about 1/3 of the size. The holes at that point were just where water would collect so I closed them. I will be keeping the grille though! I don't really think they ever look right without them.
 
All painted. Tomorrow I will seam seal it and then put a final coat.
Also my dad worked on repairing the top plate.
 

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Today I did the seam sealer. Then I did another two coats of epoxy primer on top of the sealer. My dad finished the repairs on the top plate. I painted that in epoxy as well.
 

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