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I had put Toyo R888s on my 2011 GT. I managed to spank an aftermarket turbo’d M3 one night stoplight to stoplight (much to his disbelief). While that was fun, I got to a point where I missed kicking the back end out without risking the clutch.

For you, it sounds like you could have the best of both worlds. That’s pretty slick. Just take my word for it, that if you enjoy occasional burnouts and fish tails, the AWD would lose its appeal and keep you feeling “babysat” after a while. Do yourself a favor and keep the rears equipped with the Sumitomos or the likes.
 
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I had put Toyo R888s on my 2011 GT. I managed to spank an aftermarket turbo’d M3 one night stoplight to stoplight (much to his disbelief). While that was fun, I got to a point where I missed kicking the back end out without risking the clutch.

For you, it sounds like you could have the best of both worlds. That’s pretty slick. Just take my word for it, that if you enjoy occasional burnouts and fish tails, the AWD would lose its appeal and keep you feeling “babysat” after a while. Do yourself a favor and keep the rears equipped with the Sumitomos or the likes.

Im not gonna try to put AWD on the car. I was talking about traction control. It's within the capabilities of the MS3x. I want to try and make it on/off switchable if possible...
That way I can be like some of these idiots when the 2jz is in the car. Especially the guy at around 1:39.
 
You guys were talking about the cheap jump boxes that were available now that the Chinese have found a way to use capacitive discharge circuitry to create big power out of a small box.

I had to see for myself..

I got on Amazon ( my mostest favorite place of all online resellers), and ordered the one that was being talked about as an alternative to the better unit. ( the 50.00 piece instead of the 100.00 unit.)

And since I'm such a big Amazon user,..I had amassed "bonus bucks"... The 50 dollar piece ends up costing me 30.00 bucks shipped.
It came today.....I open it....The instructions claim it'll out put 800 cranking amps..it's the size of a paperback book.
No Freakin Way.
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You use a wall wart to charge this thing,...It has an internal flash lite, and is capable of charging a phone or tablet after its charged...
How can you not have one of these things in your car?
I'm almost tempted to go out and kill the Monsters Battery, just to see if the thing will work.


It should work fine but of course there are caveats. It's not just capacitive discharge but also LiPo batteries. I've built a few of these pack that are about the same size as the one you have there but with more capacity.

If you are interested at all, there are a ton of videos out there for making these packs. You can use anything from common 18650 LiPo put into packs to graphene cells that will power any decent size trolling motor for half a day.

As handy as you are, you could construct a pack similar in size with 5 times the capacity and more uses as a 'Swiss Army' power supply.

Once you get your power supplies sorted out, you can move on to solar charge and cell balance controllers! :D (this is the portion I'm playing with now)
 
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Im not gonna try to put AWD on the car. I was talking about traction control. It's within the capabilities of the MS3x. I want to try and make it on/off switchable if possible...
That way I can be like some of these idiots when the 2jz is in the car. Especially the guy at around 1:39.


All I meant was the feeling of hooking and moving is fun, but so is the ability to roast tires. I would get bored with that BMW.

You are setting up the best of both worlds. TC to be able to hook, yet turn it off and play.
 
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Well the exhaust header/turbo manifold came in for the 2j...

Pretty impressive...
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And fully 5" shorter than the monster's long assed turbo header.. this is gonna be an amazing build.

Especially unbelieveable is the 300.00 price tag...where on earth can you get a SS, beautifully tigged exhaust header that has actually been ground smooth inside with 1/2" thick flanges for any engine that comes with gaskets and hardware for 300 dollars?

Jina... that's where.
 
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And on the above note...

Into all lives....a little rain must fall.

The turn radius on the two middle tubes is so tight I don’t see how I’ll ever get the bolts in to attach the thing to the head. The red flag should be waving like mad right now, cause even with the header OFF the engine, I can’t get those two bolts to go in the two holes underneath...I’m sure that once in the car, it’ll be impossible.

But....as I’ve said before...I must just love to torcher myself..I’ll wait till the engine gets here, and see if it can be done. ( another WTF,...the header shipped directly from CHINA and it’s here before the engine is that was in CA.) The ONLY WAY a fastener of any kind will work in those two holes is if I use a stud and nut..and even then, I’ll have to do some stupid sht to get them started.
The other weird thing as has been noted is the round hole, oval hole in the flange,...and the smallish ports compared to the gasket..one things for sure,..I’m not gonna even TRY porting 1/2” thick stainless steel, if the ports on the head are significantly bigger than the flange.
Fortunately...Amazon Prime...I can send this thing back if I can’t.
 
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I’ve been purposely postponing this update, waiting on something to say. But as time marches on, turns out I have plenty to say.
Firstly,..the 2juliettezulu...its not gonna be as easy as it first looked to be.
All of those engines you can buy are sho-nuff 2jz's, but they are Japanese Spec, NOT US spec. And while in the long run it doesn't matter that much...there are differences....most notably the cams.
I may not be able to use the fairly affordable Supra-Spec 2jz cams, and may be forced into just having mine reground.

Secondly, this is a VVT-I engine...hydraulics move the intake cam timing with engine load. THAT is another obstacle to being able to upgrade the cams even if I can replace them w/US spec stuff. Doing away with the VVT-I Potentially trades away 60-80 ft-lbs of torque in the low,and midrange power band if I'm reading this correctly.

The engine is at a freight terminal at Valdosta Ga. I'm supposed to get a delivery call tommorrow, or Thursday, I need the damn thing here is all I know.

On a side note...the car and the engine are presently on Ebay listed for sale...the whole car, and just the engine by itself..its too high at the price I'm asking based on the amount of watchers, but I figured one of three things might happen:
I'll sell the engine and justify the 2j purchase...I'll sell the car and return the 2j
I'll just not come home one day, and dissapear into the country somewhere.

The oil pressure on the monster engine has started acting weird..once always idling at 60 psi, and cruising between 80 and 100 psi at rpm...now it steadily drops.
This last weekend while driving on the interstate, it went from 60 to 50, to high 40's all while the engine ran at the same RPM..panicked, I got off the interstate and pulled into a C store to look for leaks..there was none. The engine was now showing me like 30 psi hot idling...( and it was hot, like 100 degrees outside) if you'll remember, I bypassed the oil cooler because it leaked, and I haven't replaced it yet..maybe the oil was just so freakin hot that it got as thin as water..I dont know.

Maybe I've hurt the engine..i dont know that either.

I dont know nothing anymore.
 
So if you’re second guessing the 2J, why not just do a 302/351 variant and keep the damn car. I don’t see the use in selling the whole car Mike. Return the 2J and get an engine that will be easy and reliable so you can drive the damn thing and enjoy it.
 
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So if you’re second guessing the 2J, why not just do a 302/351 variant and keep the damn car. I don’t see the use in selling the whole car Mike. Return the 2J and get an engine that will be easy and reliable so you can drive the damn thing and enjoy it.
Remove the engine ( and the talking point of the car) and all you have is an orange Fairmont. Take it from the guy that has to answer " what the hell is that?" About a thousand times when talking to somebody who has stopped by to talk about the car...
Nobody looks past the engine compartment. Despite the interior, and countless hours spent on the body, ( where alot of people guess it to be either a Buick Regal, or Monte Carlo) putting a sole-less 5.0/351 in the car, despite its ease of install would be like tying me to a chair and force feeding me oatmeal till I puke.
 
And on the above note...

Into all lives....a little rain must fall.

The turn radius on the two middle tubes is so tight I don’t see how I’ll ever get the bolts in to attach the thing to the head. The red flag should be waving like mad right now, cause even with the header OFF the engine, I can’t get those two bolts to go in the two holes underneath...I’m sure that once in the car, it’ll be impossible.

But....as I’ve said before...I must just love to torcher myself..I’ll wait till the engine gets here, and see if it can be done. ( another WTF,...the header shipped directly from CHINA and it’s here before the engine is that was in CA.) The ONLY WAY a fastener of any kind will work in those two holes is if I use a stud and nut..and even then, I’ll have to do some stupid sht to get them started.
The other weird thing as has been noted is the round hole, oval hole in the flange,...and the smallish ports compared to the gasket..one things for sure,..I’m not gonna even TRY porting 1/2” thick stainless steel, if the ports on the head are significantly bigger than the flange.
Fortunately...Amazon Prime...I can send this thing back if I can’t.


Use studs and nuts for the ones that suck. DogBones FTMFW
 
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