Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#2,561
95BlueStallion said:
Dont know what youre supposed to use, but you motivated me to get back on my heat extractor hood. Took an easier route this time, and just need to get the pieces painted before assembly. I'll derail your g-thread with a pic or two once its done, since I dont really have my own thread to work with anymore.
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And what part of this update motivated you?

The lunar surface primer job?

The "still not done" status?

The "somethin ain't right" kinda wonkiness?
 
#2,563
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#2,564
madmike1157 said:
Well. Now that we got the soap opera references out of the way.

DAVE,...must be too busy for me.

I jumped off the cliff, and did it myself anyway.

I used the new Chinee gun with the 2.0 tip.
I set the pressure at the gun to 35psi flowing.
I used the med temp reducer.

I forgot to drain the compressor.

I followed every other step to a T though.
I drained the lines and water trap.
I cleaned the hood with a wax and degreaser thoroughly.
I tacked it off.

I sprayed the first coat and got excellent coverage w/ almost no visible overspray build up.
I waited 15 minutes.
I did the same thing for the second coat
I got water droplets everywhere.

I did all this out under my makeshift, redneck spray booth. The same one I used for the dash bars, the same one that I used for the green wheels. The only difference I could cite today, is that it's overcast. I couldn't see the water in the primer until I went back and looked afterwards.

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*PsshhT "Uhh Mission Control,...this is LEM......have LZ in sight,....touch down in 3,...2,....1,... Mission Control, we are on the moon.

Literally,...if you didn't know you were looking at Mike's hood,...It could just as well be the moon.

As expected,...primer reveals what your eyes and hands cannot.
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There's still a bunch of work to do.

The center rib is still kinda wonky,..and the front legs of the scoops are kinda weird. Ones thicker than the other, and a couple of the lines are a little screwy.

But it is flat,.......So I got that going for me......Which is nice.
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I don't know how much of the wonkiness can be "blocked out" by sanding, but tomorrow, after this thing dries overnight that's what'll happen next. I guess I'll ask ol absent @Davedacarpainter if I'm supposed to do that wet, or dry.
I have a brand new roll of 320 grit longboard paper, as well as some 180G stuff. I intended to use the 320 dry, but I'd imagine that it'll clog just as soon as it hits the primer.

Whatami supposed to use,.......DAVE?
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Hey mike, sorry for the absentia, CRAZY afternoon, everything I painted had to GOOOO! Same old bull sh*t.
Your primer laid out real nice though. You said it was 4:1 with the reducer, you using a lacquer primer?
Get one of those little orange ball water seperarators that you put on the inlet of the gun. I have to spray primer on my engine bay this weekend and will be using them as well.
Hell man, you're in Alabama! Do you even have an idea what a low humidity day is? I suffered there in the summer a couple years in the eighties. Temp. was only 91, but the humidity was about the same number. GAWD! It was hot.
For the primer you are spraying, I would say the tip on your primer gun was just about perfect.
Wet or dry sanding is purely subjective on what you like. Not sure where you want to be after this stage though. Will you reprimer again prior to applying color?
If this is it prior to refinishing, 320 dry is okay, yet I would go back over that with a slightly finer grit. 320 grit scratches have a tendency to die back on you(you'll see them later as the solvents leave the paint). Even with a sealer coat prior to the color. This is assuming your are blocking it with 320. If you are talking about DAing(dual action orbiting sander) it with 320, that's different. The scoring won't be as pronounced and sealer usually will cover that.
Sanding it tomorrow? When do you want to shoot it with the color?
If possible, it's always good to let it set for a few days to cure. Let the primer die back on its own, then sand it smooth. The primer WILL die back wether you have the topcoat on or not. Let it die back before you topcoat and you have less problems later.
Let me know some of the details of what you intend to do and I'll tell you what I would do based on that info.
 
#2,568
madmike1157 said:
OK Dave, @Davedacarpainter. Nows your chance. I'm gonna try to put the G hood in it's first few coats of 2k primer this afternoon I hope. I have a brand new gravity feed gun that has a 2.0 tip, and an old reliable that has a 1.7 tip. The primer I'm using is mixed @ 4:1. It's about 70 out today. I have some warm temp reducer, medium temp, and slow reducer. When I first primed these panels I used old reliable, and dry sprayed the hell out of them. Turned out the gun was filthy. ( never took it completely apart to clean it.) That has been resolved. I also bought a new Chinee 2.0 gun as stated above.

Which reducer, which gun, and what gun pressure?
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As I stated in the other post, primer laid out nice (outside of the water). Right tip and right reducer. Unless you intend to let the panel set for some time, I wouldn't use the slow until it's about ninety out. It may help with flow(smoothness) but, it will take longer to harden/dry.
When you say two part and you mention just primer and a reducer, I'm inclined to think it is a one part primer that requires a reducer to be thin enough to spray. This is what I started with back in the seventies. The reducer is a lacquer thinner. We had varying speeds of it based on temp. Nothing wrong with this route btw, I used to get real pretty paint jobs back then as well.
A two part, as we use now will have the primer, a catalyst(hardener), and a reducer to allow it to spray through a gun with desire able results. The reducer now is not a form of lacquer thinner.
Details Mike, I'll do whatever I can for you.
 
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#2,575
Spent time looking at the photo, the only thing that would drive me nuts would be the center body line between the scoops. Kind of flattens out there. In spite of you CTing me about my quote of analness, I'm thinking you might be the same, if not more, just no CT to go with it.
Not meant to be insulting at all, but I would probably block with 180 and form that line as best as I could first. See what you can make the primer do.
Then decide if a second priming would take care of the problem or not.
It's not ugly or bad. I see it pretty easily because that's what I have been doing every day for a long stinking time.
If you are intending to use this as a quasi guide coat, block with 180. you will be able to form things. With 320 you just take out the small waves that everyone has.
Doby has been stripped to metal, mud work done, primered, blocked with 180, reprimered, block with 320, reblocked with 500, sealed and painted the wrong color and will be blocked with 800 prior to the last paint job.
 
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