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So,.....in trying to find out what my problem with my engine, I stumble upon a likely culprit. Every test I make checks out. At the FP relay, I've got voltage. At the relay board FP output I have voltage, but I get no pump prime.
When checking the pump itself,..I check the thing for loose terminals, and they are tight, but the studs themselves act like they are loose. (I can move them w/ my fingers). I have #2 turn the key, while I ck the voltage at the pump, and no sooner did he turn the key, the stinkin pump primes.

The car starts after some cranking.

I talk to Steve, and he has me datalog the warm up enrichment, but almost like before, the engine runs for about 4 minutes and dies like it is unplugged.

You turn the key. You get nothin. You dick with the connections, the pump primes.

So,....what do we have here? WE GOTTA DEFECTIVE PUMP!!!
Here's the really good part:

I bought the thing from Summit 2.yr/7mo ago. It has exactly 20 total minutes run time on it. It is out of warranty, No longer made, and Mallory has been assimilated.

The "Borg" in this instance is MSD. Mallory is now a acquisition of MSD, and MSD tells me that they are not even rebuilding these things.

I have a 220.00 throw-a-way.

There now. Now that that is all behind me, Summit has offered to discount the new pump by a whole whopping 20%.
Better to find out now though i guess.....
 
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Ok another Wednesday,..another attempt to bring the car closer to completion.

I guess I've got dirty work to do. The oil leak "looks" like it may be coming out of the oil pressure sender at the block adapter fitting.

I don't think I used sealer of any kind on it to eliminate the chance that the sender wouldn't ground to that block. While you may be sitting here reading and thinking "What's the big deal? it's only a OP sender,..unscrew that btch and move on".
I'd have to remind you that this is the Monster. That OP sender is only accessible from underneath, access to which is obscured by an all too large factory K member, the sender itself blocked by the dipstick tube.

Still,...not the end of the world. So,...I'll spend an hour or two on my back this morning.

Thing is,...I don't know for sure that that is where the leak is even coming from. It manages to run from somewhere around there, then around the rear of the oil pan, eventually down onto the transmission separator plate. Hell, it could be coming from some god awful place behind the engine for all I know.

Here's hoping that I'm right.

After that, I'm gonna scuff, and black out the trim. Again,...NBD with the exception of the trim that sits on top of the door.

It looks like it was hailed on.

I already tried to "push" the damage out from behind, but all that did was create a bunch of high spots. I tried to level the high spots using my DA,..but they still look like ass after multiple coats of high build primer. I'm not gonna put filler on a piece of trim.
In addition to that,....the clips that held these things on are now obsolete. The replacement clips have threaded studs that need to have a nut installed on the other side. That requires that I take my door panel off..............I ain't taking those door panels back off either.

So then,...what to use as an alternative...:thinking:

Those pieces of trim are obsolete as well, they measure 1-3/8" wide, and they stand about 1/8"-3/16" off the door.

I'm thinkin' I'm using aluminum flat bar. I'll just cut it to length, get the ends angled correctly, round the edges over slightly, and use 3M mount tape to hold them on. We'll see how that works today.

If I have time I'll work on the other "leak" that I'm gonna have. This may prove to be an even bigger pain in the ass than the oil leak.

Up along the frame rails in the engine compartment, under the intake manifold, trapped between the powersteering reservoir and a bunch of other sht are the bulkhead fittings for the hoses that feed the intercooler. One of those things leaked when I first plumbed them. At the time I said to myself:

"Remember to deal with that before you put the engine in there, cause if you don't.............ooohhh,...that's gonna be a sonofabtch to deal with afterwards."

I didn't remember.

P5310986_zps14490da5.webp

That'd be these two damn hoses, and I think the problem child is the rear one. At the time of this pic,.I had already cranked the pss out of the connection trying to make it tight enough to stop leaking. Probably gonna give me a stroke.

I so want to have stuff go my way today,....I'm gonna go downstairs and put a box on my head and say a silent prayer to the great Garagamunga....the god of garages......... hoping that he may show me favor today.:rolleyes:
 
What did you do to the fuel pump to make it work?
Oh it works after you wiggle the connections....The mystery part is that it seems to run for around 4 minutes and quits. That in of itself is definitely the ECU getting hot somewhere,...right now, I'm still trying to rule out coincidence.
If I start it this afternoon and let it run the distance I'm starting a timer in addition to the datalog. If it stops again around 4 minutes then I'm back to whatdafuq?
 
Oh it works after you wiggle the connections....The mystery part is that it seems to run for around 4 minutes and quits. That in of itself is definitely the ECU getting hot somewhere,...right now, I'm still trying to rule out coincidence.
If I start it this afternoon and let it run the distance I'm starting a timer in addition to the datalog. If it stops again around 4 minutes then I'm back to whatdafuq?

Run outside power to it and rule out the ecu???
 
Well,...It's a little bit of a ramble,...but you get to hear and see what I see and hear. The take away is:
The engine doesn't die.
I still have an oil leak.
It definitely is the pump.
I bought a sender that doesn't work.
There is a 10 degree difference between the ECU and the guages as far as coolant temp, (The gauges read 10 degrees high)

Did I mention?.............I still have an oil leak,....I'm thinking that it's gonna be a problem.

I think it's coming from the back of the engine.

 
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