Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

Perfect amount of room for a single machine gun, you could route the ammo belt into the fender well?

I know you say you don’t like the praise sht Mike, suck it, that looks freaking fantastic brother. Nice job buddy.

Well, then youre gonna need something fancy like an electric motor that contributes to the output of the I6 like a Porsche 918.

That's awesome! I can't wait to hear the first fire of that bad boy! Congratulations!

I think it will make more power than we give it credit for..... based on the injector duty cycles of the engine out of boost i will make an assumed HP rating of close to 360FWHP so lets call it 320 at the tire. With the low engine speed duty cycles being so high i bet this thing makes close to 400FWTQ

a91what said:

I think it will make more power than we give it credit for..... based on the injector duty cycles of the engine out of boost i will make an assumed HP rating of close to 360FWHP so lets call it 320 at the tire. With the low engine speed duty cycles being so high i bet this thing makes close to 400FWTQ

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That would be pretty sweet. My fingers are crossed so that he doesnt get bored too soon.

I hope so as well, but you know what they say about assuming...... lol

I bet the ITB setup will shift his power curve significantly to the upper range but that is TBD...

BTW @CarMichael Angelo did you know your system can be directly upgraded to a MS3 or even a MS3X.... you could go COP/CNP and full sequential injection for the cheap.... or even keep the coil packs you have and trigger them directly, you would have the ability to do spark cut for sweet sweet flame throwing launches.

^ That doesnt sound like a Mike kind of feature, but something a Monster should do.

You must have the cost of a coyote swap in all those fittings... jeesh I could never convince myself to buy those things... just so pricey.

a91what said:

I think it will make more power than we give it credit for..... based on the injector duty cycles of the engine out of boost i will make an assumed HP rating of close to 360FWHP so lets call it 320 at the tire. With the low engine speed duty cycles being so high i bet this thing makes close to 400FWTQ

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The peak rpm at maximum power goes up with the total cfm at peak valve lift. That rpm point is the measure of what the true cfm is.


On Stanley R. Weiss' calculations,

"RPM of Peak Horse Power"

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html

COPYRIGHT © 2000-2012 Stan Weiss — World Wide Enterprises

How to use the RPM of Peak Horse power

Table.1) Calculate the cubic inches of one cylinder of your motor.

2) Run across the top column and find the closest value.

3) Take the CFM for the head you are looking at a valve lift that is below maximum valve lift for the cam you are running.

4) Run down that column until the left hand column has the CFM closest to that number.--

Example --Pontiac 400 / 8 = 50 ci per cylinder.

Pontiac 16 Jim Butler has 245 CFM @ .500 lift and 504 hp

Peak Horse Power RPM from Chart 5444. This is where the cylinder volume and cfm cross.



To simplify things, Stanley R. Weiss makes the assumption that every engine has a 4456 Aspirations Index, which isn't strictly true.


A great NASCAR 351 engine has better than a 3600 ratio.

A really good 4.5 liter V6 makes just as much hp per cubic inches if done right, about 3/4's a good NASCAR V8.

The true measure of the peak power rpm is to just shove the likely CFM at 25" H20 for the given valve lift, and just factor in a very very small percentage drop in peak CFM of a bare head. Most often, a good ITB unit with the right throttle body size will drop off less than 5% of the bare head flow rate, often, no loss. 0% loss was what the Weslake 305 KarKraft GT40's were doing, the power of a 428 with the size of a 5 liter small block.


On an I6, any other kind of system (4-bbl, twin 2-bbls, triple 1-bbls) , they loose more than 10% over a bare head flow rate at the nominated peak lift of the cam considered.

So I'm spitting out 220 cfm at 25" H20 total with 528 thou real lift, and remember, CMA has done some headwork with the hogged out intakes, so whatever goodness was there in the DIYTuner tables, it'll be a whole lot "good-er-rer" with the Artist Formely Known as Mike 1157's modifications.` Squiggle on CMA....


I'm saying power at 6050 rpm, and it'll be 380 hp, and 250 hp at the rear wheels. Automatic transmission losses on a chassis dyno are exceptionally high. On a drag strip, auto trans losses are much lower, but I haven't seen a Ford 4 speed automatic loss factor less than 1.33 on a chassis dyno. Drag strip, it computes out lower. Drive train losses are mainly tire related. Electric drive shaft or axle mounted meters without tires still show an automatic with torque converter looses a hang of a lot more than a maual gearbox. Anyways, IMHO, the biggest gain will be from the ITB, not porting the head. Porting the head wider was needed to suit the wide throttle of the BMW intake system, so its a given that cannot be gone back on. It was needed to fit all the jazz together.

I'm "edumac-cated guessing" the lack of blending of the sides of the port might prevent reaching 400 hp, as the total cfm on a bare head is often 239 cfm if the intake port is oval with the flanking walls left alone. X flow heads are kinda quirky with the twist and tumble, and mixture motion. When you go up in port sizes, its very hard to avoid grinding the side walls, and the experts seam to aggree that just going up in port size uniformly, sometimes the power gains aren't there if you take even another 20 thou of the sides. But it don't matter none. The ITB's will pulse tune the air fuel mixture, and as you fiddle with the fuel curves, you'll make it just peachy everywhere.

CarMichael Angelo said:

one problem gives way to another.....I planned to put 90* hose end fittings on these male fittings.....

The hood won't close.

So,...as with everything with me,.....I have to adapt.


These things barely get by. One of them is a 120*, and the other is a 150*. I need the 120's, I only have one. I have two 150's, but they're too tight.
I could buy two of these special swivel fittings and they would fit, but.....


They're 30.00 each. And they don't completely solve my problem,....I still gotta get something screwed to the 90 to accommodate the breather filters....

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How about on of these? 90° AN bulkhead fitting and use a straight hose fitting??



You may have to trim the long threaded end off some, but it will work. Use an O ring to make it seal properly.

Ya'll needed to have dolls as kids....

Even Sid from Toy Story didn't use a 3" hole saw for "key Hole" Surgery like some Kiwis do.

I6 access is a lot easier witout the Hair dryer.


For sinsiter looks, a hole cut doll lookes a whole lot better....

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVYgwRQzCkg



View: https://vimeo.com/54985279

CarMichael Angelo said:

Sigh ......I look at it, and when compared to the previous setup it now looks lopsided. It looks like a I6 now. The turbo setup was so busy that it actually " balanced" out the engine bay. Much less sinister now, ..no "Black Mamba" anymore
Now it's much more like a garter snake.
I knew that it would appear driver side heavy, and that was the primary reason for the "up oriented" exhaust....to try and get some of the symmetry back,....What does the finger say?

Nope.

I'll have to come up with an equally harmless nickname for my new 4.1L Fordrarri, ....

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The six exhausts kinda look spindly, but all I6's with headers do that. Unless they are slanted cross flow engines.


Meth Injection. Since these no place to go. Let it Snow.....

Or Evacusump the excess into the header collector if you dare do it twice.


As a six cylinder kind of guy, I remember the exhaust kind of driving me nuts when I considered the Cross flow with headers. A cross flow six is still not a normal US configuration, it'll still mess the Male Monster from the Id out of anyone looking at it.


Actually, one of those nasty neighbourhood leaf blowers. We both share the same Lost Religion, Mike....hatred of the Temple of the Weekend Leaf blower....... 215 mph and 470 cfm of Rammed Craftsman air could fit between the upper pipe and the engine. Rammmed, Crammmed, Jammed.

As the kiwi would say, "F*ckin get to it then" in some other language or ramble.

95BlueStallion said:

As the kiwi would say, "F*ckin get to it then" in some other language or ramble.

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Lol. Don't spoon feed the Kiwis....

Technically you can turn the key before you do any of that.

Question. Do you think you actually need the catch can anymore, or is it just for filler under the hood?

95BlueStallion said:

Technically you can turn the key before you do any of that.

Question. Do you think you actually need the catch can anymore, or is it just for filler under the hood?

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Technically I could turn the key on mine right now too