Status
Not open for further replies.
SC and MM.

That little blurb I did on the EECV 460 1996 F250 truck in your went into Fords VR and VSS signal protocols.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...ea-advice-on-build.908143/page-9#post-9162212



Just for Variable Reluctor guys who wanna use a VR sensor to generate a Square Wave form.

DON'T.

A quick auxilary system to generate a square wave form is to use a Bernstien sensor which is commonally used for Rally Cars down here.

Generally, becasue of cost, and the issues with pure square waves forms being a problem source of emf or digital crossover, all the car based sesnors are of a Variable Reluctor type, pure Analogue input systems which don't poll below 7 mph. (Read below)

There are a few exceptions, but not many.


Sometimes you can use the Brantz Prescaler to divide Analogue voltage changes to an almost square wave form, but athough I've found it exceptionally good for tire cnahge calibration, and very adjustable, it won't work any mircales on the normal combined pre OBD2 Ford VR sensors for cruise control and speedo.

Been There, Done That.

Additionally, the post OBD1 stuff right into the OBD2 era Didn't work on my 1996 Nissan Stagea AWD,
my wifes ABS equiped 1996 RAV4 G spec 180 PS 3SGE
my Opus International Consultants Ltd 1993 VP Holden Commodore GM 3800 Executive
my Opus International Consultants Ltd 1994 Toyota HiAce SR5 2.4 Liter gasoline van
my Opus International Consultants Ltd 1994 Toyota Hilux SR5 2.4 Liter gasoline pickup

and my 1981 Mustang, which used the VR sensor.

The Fox VR sensor dates back to the 1969 California spec 302 Boss and Eliminator, and California spec 351C 4V Distrovac system also used on stick shift Maverick 200 and 250's to the early 73 era. It was used as a ignition advance booster to improve cold start emissions at various speeds below full throttle.

All off them start polling at about 20 mph on the upward increase, and then down to 6 mph on the decline.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthr...age-output-verses-speed&p=1716225#post1716225


 

Dean,.....this is too deep of a subject for mere mortals..
 
Reactions: 1 users
I can't sit back and wonder why
It took so long for this to die
And I hate it when you fake it
You can't hide it you might as well embrace it
So believe me it's not easy
It seems that something's telling me...Cause I'm in too deep ....

Any way, I used the front Bernstein sensor on my drivers side to tee off against the speedo/cruise VR sensor to check for slip.

All the calculations look complicated, but they are just gravy.

All easy to do.

Even my RAV4 and the very complicated Attesa Skyline based system in my 4WD Stagea just uses a who kit and caboodle of VR sensors which go back to a Hitachi computer to actuate the viscous coupling so the four wheel drive isn't fighting the ABS
 
The behind the scenes goings on has Steve figuring stuff out now. Converting over to 3x from a DIY built ms2 wasn't even the least bit hard. All you have to do is unplug one board with the main processor on it, and plug in the new ms3 board in place of that. Secure it with a couple of supplied screws, and add the 3x expansion card, which plugs into the newly added ms3 daughter board. Then slide all that junk into the bigger case.

The "hard part", the "scary part".....is bringing it to life.

You have to create a new project file, and you have to install new firmware to the latest ms 3 release ( because your tune/config was ms2 based, and now we're talking a little different, and much faster) .......And, in order to do that, the thing has to be plugged in, and powered up.

So,..fuel,...spark,..injection, fans, pumps,....,...they're all powered up with no programming telling them what to do......
Or what not to do.

Steve wants to know if I have a way to turn off all of that stuff, and just have the ecu powered up so that fans won't run, pumps won't pump, coil packs won't fire, injectors won't click, and my precious EDIS won't somehow overheat.

Uhh,....Nooooo,.....I didn't plan to ever have to turn off any of this sht.....it all needs to run.

"Ok then,..We'll just have to go with that then he says, but after the firmware upload is complete, a bunch of stuffs gonna probably start happening"...

Perfect..

The good thing ( According Obi-Wan VanOrder) is that the firmware upload process has been upgraded along with the hardware, and was now do-able from the PC. The other good thing was that my Bluetooth connection worked instantly, and made all of that techno-stuff possible whilst I was sitting at the workbench where I built that thing.

The bad thing was that after it all uploaded, and the required power cycle took place,..the fans started running, and I get a conflict warning saying something to the effect that one of my outputs was conflicted, and I had to correct that in settings before going on....but it didn't mention the fact that the damn fans are running. ( and who knows what else,...you can't hear anything while the fans are running)...

So rather than hold my hand, he takes the current tune home with him...saying that he'll have it back to me in a few mouse clicks sometime today....and not to worry...

But you gotta understand one thing...this is me we're talking about here.

Me? Not Worry?!! Pfffttt!

Let's just say that I'm not gonna put the top on the ecu, or even attempt to secure the thing just yet.
 
Reactions: 3 users
This seems like a good way to get the inputs we need for traction control ect...j

but could you please translate this information into stupid american for me.... and maybe a link or two so i can buy these items
 
Reactions: 1 user
well,....It runs.

Perfectly.

The take away is that this kinda sht makes Steve like a little kid in a toy store. The whole time he's looking at the tune file, he's looking at the capabilities,.... He's sayin stuff like "Oh my God,...Wow,...That's is fckin awesome,...Man, I'm jealous.

I'm all the time thinkin..."I just hope it runs right."

It does...Just as it always did. Only now I can do super human sht..............evidently.

Lets recap shall we?

One week ago I cut my finger off, and put it back in place w/ steri-strips and a CVS splint.
Today,...I'm on the path to a full recovery...Albeit w/another gash that'll tell all the ladies, that I'm good at working with my hands


The MS2 to 3 X is behind me, ...what ever I was worried about was completely unfounded..

** Dont believe that for a second.....This car would not have ran after this upgrade...The fact that I had to use unorthodox outputs to run the common stuff caused several conflicts with how the MS3x wanted to do it...It had to be told that there were these "band-aids" in place to make this thing work.

But it works great, with endless potential in front of me....So nothing left to do, but tuck him into his little cubby, and cover him back up until that time comes when I get it rolling, and thoughts turn to,...........15 psi.

The final footnote before I go get something to eat, and start working on the trunk, is to recognize Steve for his selfless help.

If I wasn't such a prick I'd say that this place is full of the best of the best, and Guys like Steve, Dave, Nick, and quite a few others that prove that this is the best collection of guys that you can get.

Except the fact that I'm here too,........and there is that "prick" part still........So I got that going for me...............................................Which is nice.
 
Reactions: 4 users
That is what it looks like. ( Well, that and the bogus repair on the back edge)
The good thing is it don't feel like it. You cannot feel the little dimples, although they are clearly low. Maybe they'll fill under primer Dave? @Davedacarpainter
As long as you use hardener() in your primer, it’ll probably fill them.

Worst case? You find a couple that need a little filler.
 
For now, the ecu is done. It'll start the car, and the " known tune" that's on it is safe enough to go out, and drive it.
Before I can do that I gotta finish the two panels..the hood and the trunk.

Both of them have their fair share of work. The hood is gonna need the hole where the hood ornament was filled. I think I'm gonna take the rear vents off of the original hood and transfer them over to this one. I'll have to fill a couple of small dents, and finish the repair that was done on the under side where the old prop rod caused a rip in the inner structure ( re-welded already)

The trunk has rust around the seam, and I'm gonna get some sand to put in my little HF blast gun to deal with that., but after that gets remedied, I'm only gonna clean the underside(s), scuff them add a coat of primer, and paint it.

Somewhere back a million pages, there are some photo-shopped images of the hood on the car in different colors, so I can decide if I want to try all black, all orange, or some combination of the two again. It's the same way for the trunk for me.
Thinkin' maybe all black this time, with only the front edge above the grille orange, and the rear edge of the trunk the same way.

Maybe.

Like this, only maybe just the hood gets the black with just the front edge staying orange.
 
Last edited:
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.