Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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- Mar 2, 2015
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In all seriousness...you were first my friend. No kicking of the rocks...that cluster would look real good though
- Jul 7, 2005
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In all seriousness...you were first my friend. No kicking of the rocks...that cluster would look real good though
We all be friends here... We all know we be kidding in here
Now on the serious note, the Digital Dash is AWESOME for sure
This kills me.
I make a statement ( actually a whole bunch of statements) and nobody offers nothing in response at the time.
But,.....let me ignore this place for a few hours, and I come back to find that the dogs have gotten into the garbage, and are just tearing the place up to hell n back.
Baaadd Dogs....
I make a statement ( actually a whole bunch of statements) and nobody offers nothing in response at the time.
But,.....let me ignore this place for a few hours, and I come back to find that the dogs have gotten into the garbage, and are just tearing the place up to hell n back.
Baaadd Dogs....
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,110
- 164
Don't do the Coyote swap, it's been done in every fox-chassis model at this point, including an LTD wagon, so you wouldn't be happy with it
You insist on doing something totally different, and I get it, I really do.
This is why, although it was mostly in jest, my suggestion was a multi-carb flathead. They're reliable, it'd be different as hell, and NOBODY would expect it upon opening the hood.
The Barra, as others suggested, would also put you in your happy place.
I might also suggest the 3.7L "Cyclone" V6 from a late model Mustang or F150. They both start with 300+hp, they're about the size of a 302 externally, they're rock solid, and the bastards LOVE boost from a blower or turbo.
My last suggestion, and it's one that is totally doable and still completely unexpected would be a European-market 2.8 or 3.0 Bosch-injected Cologne V6 from the Ford Capri MK III. NOBODY would expect that, and it would actually bolt right in using '79-80 2.8 Mustang mounts. It's got a tiny footprint, so there's room for a turbo or two (there's guy in the II forum running a carbureted 2.8 with a turbo, and the II engine compartment is much smaller than a Fairmont's), they're pretty stout little bastards, they're German (even the Essex-built engines were a German design), and they even sound good.
You insist on doing something totally different, and I get it, I really do.
This is why, although it was mostly in jest, my suggestion was a multi-carb flathead. They're reliable, it'd be different as hell, and NOBODY would expect it upon opening the hood.
The Barra, as others suggested, would also put you in your happy place.
I might also suggest the 3.7L "Cyclone" V6 from a late model Mustang or F150. They both start with 300+hp, they're about the size of a 302 externally, they're rock solid, and the bastards LOVE boost from a blower or turbo.
My last suggestion, and it's one that is totally doable and still completely unexpected would be a European-market 2.8 or 3.0 Bosch-injected Cologne V6 from the Ford Capri MK III. NOBODY would expect that, and it would actually bolt right in using '79-80 2.8 Mustang mounts. It's got a tiny footprint, so there's room for a turbo or two (there's guy in the II forum running a carbureted 2.8 with a turbo, and the II engine compartment is much smaller than a Fairmont's), they're pretty stout little bastards, they're German (even the Essex-built engines were a German design), and they even sound good.
Kind of late to the game here, but just to clarify in case someone looks at this info as gospel:
All 96-98 cobras came with the Teksid Block (hatching in the valley is square), forged crank, powdered metal rods and hypo pistons, B-heads
All 99 cobras came with the Teksid Block (hatching in the valley is square and slight casting revision), forged crank, powdered metal rods and hypo pistons, 1st Gen C-heads
SOME 01 cobra's came with the Teksid block but most came with the WAP Aluminum block (hatching in the valley is diagonal), forged crank, powdered metal rods and hypo pistons, 1st Gen C-heads
All 03/04 cobras came with the iron block, forged crank, forged rods and forged pistons, 2nd and 3rd Gen C-heads (3rd gen being the best).
93-98 Mark VIII came with the teksid block (some side bolt differences between the 93-95 and 96-98 Blocks), cast crank, powdered metal rods and hypo pistons, B-heads
2003-2004 Mach 1's came with the aluminum WAP block, cast crank on the auto, forged crank on the manual, powdered metal rods and hypo pistons, and 2nd and 3rd Gen C-Heads
Both B and C heads are good heads. The C heads will have better low end response due to the port design, but B-heads are still preferred for all out flow due to the dual port design and maximum flow potential. The 3rd Gen C head is considered the best available for street/strip (outside of the unattainable cobra R heads and FR500 heads) due to the good low lift flow characteristics and fix to the common cooling issues in the 1st and 2nd gen C heads. There are more minor differences, but I won't get into those as these are the major differences. Most of the 32v cobra motors have a a HP limit of 450-475 due to the rods and pistons, the 03/04 cobra being the exception obviously.
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I agree, I think 3.7 would be a cool way to go. Or even a 3.5 ecoboost depending on what your horsepower goals are.
The ecoboost def. has more potential stock, but those 3.7s with better pistons and their higher flowing heads can really shine with some boost added.
Then we’re back in stock coyote territory with a blower or turbo with limited effort
There are several reasons I'd go 3.7 over 3.5EB.
Ease of installation, reliability, flexibility, ease of tuning, price.
These are all reasons I'd start with a 3.7 and add a power adder rather than start with an EB.
3.7 is less reliable with boost due to the thinner top ring land on the hypo piston. They've been known to grenade without spot on tuning. Otherwise, being conventional injection and the higher flowing heads gives it a higher potential with less expensive fueling upgrades. I'm speaking about the first gen EcoBoost motors, not 100% sure on the second gen.
First-gen EBs leak oil from 3-4 different places, and have vacuum pump, timing chain, and other issues, the 3.7 has none of that.
Ok,....bench racing, and wishful thinking aside, this is the rational side of my brain thinking. In other words,...this makes sense to me.
IF,..I change this ( it's getting to be more like a when now) I have to be cognizant of what I want when the hood is open.
Firstly...it had to be dead reliable, quiet, and capable of supporting all of the driven accessories in the dead of summer w/o a hint of overheating.
Second,..it has to make 400 hp. Minimum.
Third. It cannot be overly complicated. To build, tune, or modify. In other words, I have to be able to buy the already made sht used to do that with,.Cams, intakes, headers, everything I'd want,...has to be on a shelf somewhere.
Lastly,....when it's in the engine compartment, it has to look something like this:
Now,........I'm not going to put a carbureted 427 Cammer into the monster,....as big as this engine is, the price tags to buy one is even bigger.
But a 32v 4.6 looks like one. And I'm thinking that there are valve covers out there that simulate the look. The engine I've found in ATL is 500 bucks. It needs a stroker kit.. That fixes the 281 c.i. part, and solves the weak rotating assy at the same time.
There's no sophisticated variable cam or valve timing to worry about,.....nor any high pressure fuel injection bullsht to overcome.
The only fabrication required will be the mating of my old assed trans to the engine, I can adapt my 4r70 to the engine,..maybe even find a trans case that will fit, and transfer my stuff over to it.
(Well.... The turbo(s) required to meet my hp goals might require some fab work as well,...but a 4.6 isn't gonna make 400 hp N/A)
In the grand scheme of things,..I think it'll still yield the wow factor, w/o the worry I'm currently experiencing when wondering if the thing will make it the 40 miles one way to a cruise in, or the 300 miles one way to Mississippi this October..and yes, I'll have just as much in this engine, as I would in a Coyote, but I'll be able to build it a little at a time until it's ready for transplant, buying stuff as the budget allows...and there won't be any hyperucraptic pistons or powdered metal rods inside.
Without leaks,.....without weird noises coming from under the hood,....without overly complicated and cluttered wiring running all over the place
IF,..I change this ( it's getting to be more like a when now) I have to be cognizant of what I want when the hood is open.
Firstly...it had to be dead reliable, quiet, and capable of supporting all of the driven accessories in the dead of summer w/o a hint of overheating.
Second,..it has to make 400 hp. Minimum.
Third. It cannot be overly complicated. To build, tune, or modify. In other words, I have to be able to buy the already made sht used to do that with,.Cams, intakes, headers, everything I'd want,...has to be on a shelf somewhere.
Lastly,....when it's in the engine compartment, it has to look something like this:
Now,........I'm not going to put a carbureted 427 Cammer into the monster,....as big as this engine is, the price tags to buy one is even bigger.
But a 32v 4.6 looks like one. And I'm thinking that there are valve covers out there that simulate the look. The engine I've found in ATL is 500 bucks. It needs a stroker kit.. That fixes the 281 c.i. part, and solves the weak rotating assy at the same time.
There's no sophisticated variable cam or valve timing to worry about,.....nor any high pressure fuel injection bullsht to overcome.
The only fabrication required will be the mating of my old assed trans to the engine, I can adapt my 4r70 to the engine,..maybe even find a trans case that will fit, and transfer my stuff over to it.
(Well.... The turbo(s) required to meet my hp goals might require some fab work as well,...but a 4.6 isn't gonna make 400 hp N/A)
In the grand scheme of things,..I think it'll still yield the wow factor, w/o the worry I'm currently experiencing when wondering if the thing will make it the 40 miles one way to a cruise in, or the 300 miles one way to Mississippi this October..and yes, I'll have just as much in this engine, as I would in a Coyote, but I'll be able to build it a little at a time until it's ready for transplant, buying stuff as the budget allows...and there won't be any hyperucraptic pistons or powdered metal rods inside.
Without leaks,.....without weird noises coming from under the hood,....without overly complicated and cluttered wiring running all over the place
Sounds like your mind is made up. I’m ready to see you get to it.
I’m all about those screaming V8s!
I’m all about those screaming V8s!
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