I'm assuming that this is a link then, and I cannot ask a question,......but just in case....
If I try to clean the pinhole area what do I clean it with? And,..will adding filler rod ( or mig wire....I got buttloads of that) fix this?
I'm assuming that this is a link then, and I cannot ask a question,......but just in case....See http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=38727 for some help with your problem...
Ken_m » posted...
"The problem you are encountering is very common. The cause of this is when welding relatively "dirty" carbons steels (compared to alloys ) you need need cleaning agents in the weld. Hot rolled sheet is the worst
Because with TIG , the process itself does not really provide any cleaning, you must rely on the filler material to clean the weld
The most common cause for this is people using AWS R45 and AWS R60 carbon steel filler. This stuff is actually for oxy acetylene gas welding. You can't tell the diffrence at first glance when looking at it
The proper filler choice for unalloyed carbon steel ( mild steel ) is AWS ER70-S2 . The "S-2" filler is also refereed to as "triple deoxidized" because it has Ti, Al ,Zr . It also has Si and Mg which are common deoxidizers is MIG wires
A distant second choice is ER70-S-6 ( very common in MIG wire form ). This filler uses Si and Mg as primary deoxidizers
Quality filler will always be stamped / coined on both ends showing AWS Class
Lastly, if you are trying to do a pure fusion weld without filler on carbon steel, the only way to minimize the pinholes is to minimize the depth of penetration, which means go easy on the current. Don't be surprised if you can't get rid if the pinholes when doing pure fusion welds (without filler ) on carbon steels
You can get away with using the cheap oxy filler if you get lucky and the base material chemistry is relatively low in trace contaminants. Having said that, since you don't use much filler TIG welding there is no reason to be saving money by buying the less expensive filler
If you use only ER70S-2 you won't have any problems
Hope this helps"
What size wastegate and injectors?And if anybody needs stuff like ,ohhh injectors, a good Wastegate,...and a slightly modified TB..you could PM me.
Drew.....dont make me come up there..What size wastegate and injectors?
You're right drew...it said that 14 hours ago.it didn't say 10 minutes ago.
It is a link and what I know is what I read; it does make sense to use the type of rod and method that they prescribe.I'm assuming that this is a link then, and I cannot ask a question,......but just in case....
If I try to clean the pinhole area what do I clean it with? And,..will adding filler rod ( or mig wire....I got buttloads of that) fix this?
I guess " welp" is normal in northern Florida, my bad.I did not read any red neck in that at all.
On a whim last night in between bitching about one thing or another, I decided to go downstairs and see if there was anyway to trace how all of the water had gotten into the monsters block. On another website, I'm trying to sell all of that stuff, and I wanted to be sure that it was truly a HG issue that allowed all of the antifreeze into the pan.
I had ported the head two years ago when I converted it over to N/a, I wanted to be sure that a port in the head hadn't broken through. And who knows about any of the rest..the block has been over bored to the moon twice to install the sleeves ( once .180 over, this last time, .250 over.) People that follow this would know that the original sleeve had a .090 thick wall when installed, and after final boring, left me with like a .070" cylinder wall.
But you'll also remember that those sleeves were improperly machined, and I ended up with a taper in the cylinder bore that was much more narrow at the bottom, than at the top. And the #5 cylinder had bad machining marks where the boring bar cut huge gouges into the wall.
And After discovering that when I disassembled it after running for awhile, I made them fix it.
The second time around, and who knows why, they installed a much thicker sleeve. This time, even after boring to the final bore dimensions, the cylinder wall thickness looked to be at least .100". That means, they probably hogged those old sleeves out and damaged the remaining block to the point that they had to install those bigger sleeves..and who knows how big they had to cut the holes to get them bitches in.......Like maybe .260 over?... in other words..they bored my block over 1/4" to install those sleeves.
when I got the block back I took a pic of the deck, cause you could plainly see the wall thickness...I was happy that I had such a thick cylinder. In January of 2018.
But now, after running the thing since then...I think the folly of the whole thing has finally shown itself for what it truly is/was...
A time bomb.
* Look at the crack between the cylinders..there is one between everyone of them. And now that the block isn't all clean and shiny, you can see those thick assed sleeves for real.
So....obviously it took it awhile..I drove this thing to the Gulf coast last year, and It ran perfectly..probably as a result of me bouncing the thing off the rev limiter a couple of times,..maybe just a matter of time...I don't know. But one things for sure,...the old Monster is dead.
Long live the New Monster.
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