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I'm curious to see how deep those cracks go.... You thinking the cracks compromised the HG seal and caused your issues (I would expect the seal to be between the liner and head gasket)? Have you straight edged the block and heads yet to see what the distortion is? I'd check to see if the liners have moved/protruded/dropped which caused your diagnoses HG issues.

Excuse any ignorance I have on this motor, I don't know this platform very well.
Yeah I dont even have a clue there really wasnt a telltale head gasket failure. The engine ran fine, weird sht just starting to happen. One day when I went to start it it acted like the batt was stone dead and it wouldn't crank. After several attempts, it turned over, and started. ( I'm now convinced that there was water in that cylinder and the engine was hydrolocked.)
But after it started, it ran fine, and there was no telltale smoke or smell coming out of the tail pipe.
Wherever, or however the water got in neither the deck, or the head show that.
It doesn't matter anyway..there is only a very small group of people that this thing appeals to anyway, and most of them are too far removed from wanting to take on such a finicky bitch like this engine.
 
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Yeah I dont even have a clue there really wasnt a telltale head gasket failure. The engine ran fine, weird sht just starting to happen. One day when I went to start it it acted like the batt was stone dead and it wouldn't crank. After several attempts, it turned over, and started. ( I'm now convinced that there was water in that cylinder and the engine was hydrolocked.)
But after it started, it ran fine, and there was no telltale smoke or smell coming out of the tail pipe.
Wherever, or however the water got in neither the deck, or the head show that.
It doesn't matter anyway..there is only a very small group of people that this thing appeals to anyway, and most of them are too far removed from wanting to take on such a finicky bitch like this engine.

Understood, you already have the other engine so I'd probably do the same thing and just move forward without spending too much time on this. Just my curiosity getting the best of my as to why this all happened.
 
This is an opportunity. Put that back together and put the wood to it. HD cameras, at the track, 20+ psi of boost....YouTube glory!

Only down side, you could grenade it so bad you break the tranny. Oh, maybe a second down side...you drive thru your own oil and wad it up on the guardrail. But it would all be captured in the glorious 4K HD for all to see.

The ultimate payback for being a cantankerous beeoch.

:mg:
 
This is an opportunity. Put that back together and put the wood to it. HD cameras, at the track, 20+ psi of boost....YouTube glory!

Only down side, you could grenade it so bad you break the tranny. Oh, maybe a second down side...you drive thru your own oil and wad it up on the guardrail. But it would all be captured in the glorious 4K HD for all to see.

The ultimate payback for being a cantankerous beeoch.

:mg:
I’m gonna have to think about that.....:thinking:

:thinking:

:thinking:

Uhhhh no.
 
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I’m gonna have to think about that.....:thinking:

:thinking:

:thinking:

Uhhhh no.


Clean it and make it shiny. Make a Plexi-glass box for it and haul it with you to car shows with the original poster you made for the Monster showing the engine specs etc..., along with a few more pics of the final carnage before swapping over to the 2Jz.

Someone tell me how this would 'hurt' Mike's display at car shows. :oops:
 
Clean it and make it shiny. Make a Plexi-glass box for it and haul it with you to car shows with the original poster you made for the Monster showing the engine specs etc..., along with a few more pics of the final carnage before swapping over to the 2Jz.

Someone tell me how this would 'hurt' Mike's display at car shows. :oops:
So you want me to drag a dead engine around on a little trailer?

Why again?

The 2 jz is gonna get the same color scheme as the monster, with a similar looking intake and exhaust.
I wont need to drag anything along to convey the same vibe I currently get.
Except it wont make any noise, it wont have any blowby,..and itll make more power.
 
I'd vote to keep that gunk of steel. Make a plexiglass box and sit it in the corner of your man cave with led lighting.

I bet someone would buy that engine if it's in a nice display case. People buy all sorts of stuff on ebay. Somewhere there's a weird museum that would like to display your work. Especially, since you've documented the process so well. Put that thing back together when you get it out and research some places. Maybe a tech school would like it in their entrance way. Donations are tax write offs.
 
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Well...this is what my morning looks like today...
image.jpeg

I know,....it sucks. But 2 months ago Kate's mom died. She had her cremated then, so that all of her relatives could make it to a funeral service for her. Her mother has sisters and brothers from Europe and Canada, and 2 months ago, it was just too sudden logistically to get everybody here.
That was then....this is now.
Today, I am to speak on behalf of her daughters,...all of whom are too emotional still to do it. Right now, I have my little speech all put together on this iPad, and I'm confident that what I have written is what I want to say.....but things change for me when you put me in front of a group of people..even if I know you.

One on one, I'm a perfectly confident and capable speaker...put me in front of a group of people, and I'm ........uhh..err,...umm
* cough * cough!

You'd think that a one on one prick would have no issue being a one on 50 prick, but I'm here to tell you....I'm a deer in headlights.

Anyway,..all of that will be over and done with by 10 am,...then I/we spend the remainder of the day and evening in this God foresaken place, and I get back to landlocked dry land on Sunday.

I'm using my spiff monies that BMW pays directly to fund the 2j. When we sell certain cars, they qualify for additional incentives, and every quarter or so..a nice wad of cash just drops into an account, and I get an email letting me know that it happened. Yesterday, 375.00 just popped in, and I rushed right out and bought the intake
image.jpeg

Since the oil pan is just about done, the next thing will be the trans adapter. Once I figure that out, I'll be able to mock up the engine, and build/modify the mounts. I now have an exhaust that fits and looks killer, and now I have an intake that looks like the old Monster's...once this thing is painted, I don't think anybody that has looked at the car will even notice the difference.

Speaking of my poor old monster,..both induction systems just got sold off...for next to nothing.
For the bargain basement sum of 250 bucks, some guy in VA. Just bought the funnel shaped intake, the ITB system and its box hat, and the fuel rail..seems like a good deal when you consider that the throttle bodies cost me 300, and the 70 mm TB, another 100.
But, who am I gonna sell this stuff to? The ITBs are modified now. They won't even go back on the BMW they came from. And the 70 mm piece got the same treatment..it won't ever work on a 5.0..now that I've plugged the IAC ports..so..it's all a bunch of scrap, unless it's bolted on another cross flow head...and that's where this stuff is all gonna end up.

So this morning before I get all dressed up in black...I've got questions for a few of you..

For Steve: @a91what. The new intake uses some goofy looking IAC motor that bolts to the underside of the intake. I want to be able to use that, but if you'll remember IAC 1 or 2 on my board is bad. I have a 3 part question for you: 1. Do I have a work around, or do I need to get that fixed? And 2. if I do, who can fix it? Lastly, 3. Is getting it fixed gonna mess with any other circuit ( like the Boost Control mod)?
For Jeff: @TOOLOW91 . ( actually for both of you) Injectors..let's say I want 500 WHP out of this thing..how big of an injector am I gonna need. Will the 60 pounders I have work? (converted it's only like 630cc) from what I'm seeing, I'm gonna need something like 800-1000 cc's,..and that is gonna force a fuel line upgrade, and a bigger 340 lph pump ( upgrade from the current 200 lph)

I'm guessing that I'm going to rigidly mount the engine like I did with the current monster,...other than the obvious additional harshness I'll get from doing this, is there any reason that I wouldn't want to do so?

When you're making these engines make 500 hp, what boost level is required to do that? And what do I do about intercooling it? Will the water/meth system suffice, or should I consider re-installing an A2w intercooler system like I used to have, and open up the G-gills again?

if I run tubing down and out of the engine bay,..along the bottom of the radiator saddle like I did before, and re-enter the bay on the driver side through the old hole that I used When the a2w system was in place, I cannot imagine a difference in performance between I/c, and non- I/c..but if I do all of that now, I can get the charge tube out from being immediately behind a 200 degree radiator like it was in the old setup,..and then id imagine that my charge temps will drop to a more tolerable level. Then I can install the same style intercooler I used before so that the water meth can be staged and not relied on for everything all the time.
I still have the radiators, I still have the fans, I've now got two 35 GPH water pumps with no place to go. all I have to do is figure out where I want to duct the hot air out of the trunk ( already got that covered),..I'm gonna cut the inside of the quarter panel apron ( trunk floor) on the driver side, open up the G gills and duct the supply air back into the trunk again, then make a partition to seal those radiators against the driver side quarter.

Anyway,...obviously I've got time on my hands this morning..two hours before the eulogy...guess I better get around.
 
Good luck with that speech. I am sorry for you and your wife's loss. I got up and spoke at my mom's funeral. That was very very hard to do without breaking down. I had to crack jokes about her or ones that she told or I wouldn't have made it.

Why not go with a air to air IC? It seems it would be efficient enough for say less than 10lbs and when you get over that level of boost, you send in the water/meth. It would simplify your plumbing, too.

Most calculators I have bookmarked say 60lbs injectors at 43.5 base pressure are good for 550-600 flywheel hp on a turbo setup with a max 90% duty cycle and right at the 500 mark at 80% duty cycle.

As far as fuel system, when I ever build a turbo setup, I've already checked out Quantum Fuel..they've got a hanger with a -8 fitting on the fuel line and a -6 on the return and they sell a 340lph E85 compatible pump. Entire setup is less than $240.
 
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Got home at 2 today, got strait to finish welding the pan. Made the external pick up tube and bolted it up.
Then I put the pan on a fold up stand, leveled it out, and filled it with water to check for leaks.

None.

The concern is pan capacity. 5 Qts is right at the turn down for the sump.
20190929_165446_zpsmd5cfj95.jpg



You can barely see the black mark that designates where the level of oil will be when it's full. If I up the number to another 1/2 qt, ( stock capacity) oil starts to flow out and up the front of the sump.

So,..the quandary for today is : should I put a baffle in the pan at the point of the turn down to keep oil at the 5 at level and call it a day, knowing that if I use a larger capacity filter, and put the oil cooler back on line, a whole additional qt will be flowing around,
Or..
Do I cut the pan and "t" the sump to get the wet capacity up to 6 Qts. ( nothing I want to do)

I'm happy with the pan "as is" . the fact that it doesn't leak is good Ju-Ju. The extra oil flowing is good enough for me.
I'm also happy with the external pickup tube.
20190929_165433_zpsgln4gqai.jpg

20190929_165415_zpsdyenbrcp.jpg

So,...Let's turn this into a lesson on economics:

I can buy the rear mid pan from eBay for between 500, and 700 Dollars. If I was like some people,...and put a price on my time,....paying 700 for an already done factory pan, ( the only factory pan you can buy to come close to fitting a fox) might be more desirable to having to spend a week building one.

But,...since my free time is " free"....spending a week building a custom pan that I know will fit ( properly), and then spending the 170 dollars on materials to finish it, makes it all seem like I just built a pan that fits the car for one quarter of what it woulda cost to pay for one that I'd have to modify anyway. That means that the guy that can't do it thinks his " time" is worth the difference...so the difference= 400-500.00 divided by 40....10-12.50 an hour.
Dude that can't do for himself is saving 10.00 an hour

But...... a shop ain't gonna charge 10-12.50 an hour.more like......10 times that.

So.....in retrospect,..my time isn't free after all...it's really 10 bucks an hour.
Seems cheap to me.


This is all the news that's fit to tell.
 
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The GM iac valve is a 4 wire unit, it will require the use of all 4 iac-a/b outputs a ford valve only needs one pwm output from the fidle output. You also have the option of using one of the extra pwm outputs on the ms3x board that you are currently not using.
 
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