WHEN I get back to the car...( I gotta paint a wall today,...and maybe hang out with Kate afterwards, and do nothing)
Then again, maybe not.
Regardless, When I get back to the car, the wiring will move along really quickly I’m thinking. The laborious injection and ignition harnesses are done, it’s just gonna amount to getting the coil pack plate to fit right, the it’s all about finish wiring.
*As a side note, I’ll flag Steve @a91what .
The IAC valve I’m using is effectively an open hole in the intake manifold now..Does this thing get 12v constant from the ECU to hold it closed when running, and pulse on/off to control the air leak to vary the idle speed, or is it supposed to be closed now, and pulse 12v to open it? With this thing under the intake, changing it out once it’s installed will be a bitch, so I kinda need to know. It’s for a 96-04 Mustang.
Then again, maybe not.
Regardless, When I get back to the car, the wiring will move along really quickly I’m thinking. The laborious injection and ignition harnesses are done, it’s just gonna amount to getting the coil pack plate to fit right, the it’s all about finish wiring.
*As a side note, I’ll flag Steve @a91what .
The IAC valve I’m using is effectively an open hole in the intake manifold now..Does this thing get 12v constant from the ECU to hold it closed when running, and pulse on/off to control the air leak to vary the idle speed, or is it supposed to be closed now, and pulse 12v to open it? With this thing under the intake, changing it out once it’s installed will be a bitch, so I kinda need to know. It’s for a 96-04 Mustang.
So are you saying I need to tie the air “ supply” side into the charge tube before the throttle body then?
The IAC valve is a piece of sht.
Fir whatever reason, I decided to cap off one end, and pressurize the thing....( to see if it will hold boost)
Nope,...whatever reason there is a capped whatchamacallit on the thing,...it leaks significantly.
Ive already pried the cap off to see what the hell its purpose is, so it’s just kinda “on” in the pic. It’s obviously supposed to pass air, there is a little filter thing under the cap...as bad as it leaks air, it’s gotta be a non-contender.
Piece of junk.
The rest of the engine is wired though, albeit temporarily.
electrical provisions for the TPS, VVTI, MAT, Cam position sensor, 6 injectors, the brake light switch, starter, and a leaky assed IAC valve.
( NOW you should see the interior dash wiring...it’s mind boggling)
Not wired are the two knock sensors. The internal knock sensor mod requires functioning Led outputs in order to work,..at least two of mine were repurposed some time ago for some other function...I don’t remember. Nonetheless, until I return those outputs to usable status so the knock sensor board can be added in, Its pointless to worry about it. I figure I’ll get it running maybe, and then add the kit in at a later date.
The next time I’m down there, I’ll remove the intake ( only held on with one nut) and wire the starter, engine ground and the brake light switch,..then depending on what I have to do for an IAC valve, I’ll put the intake on permanently.
Fir whatever reason, I decided to cap off one end, and pressurize the thing....( to see if it will hold boost)
Nope,...whatever reason there is a capped whatchamacallit on the thing,...it leaks significantly.
Ive already pried the cap off to see what the hell its purpose is, so it’s just kinda “on” in the pic. It’s obviously supposed to pass air, there is a little filter thing under the cap...as bad as it leaks air, it’s gotta be a non-contender.
Piece of junk.
The rest of the engine is wired though, albeit temporarily.
electrical provisions for the TPS, VVTI, MAT, Cam position sensor, 6 injectors, the brake light switch, starter, and a leaky assed IAC valve.
( NOW you should see the interior dash wiring...it’s mind boggling)
Not wired are the two knock sensors. The internal knock sensor mod requires functioning Led outputs in order to work,..at least two of mine were repurposed some time ago for some other function...I don’t remember. Nonetheless, until I return those outputs to usable status so the knock sensor board can be added in, Its pointless to worry about it. I figure I’ll get it running maybe, and then add the kit in at a later date.
The next time I’m down there, I’ll remove the intake ( only held on with one nut) and wire the starter, engine ground and the brake light switch,..then depending on what I have to do for an IAC valve, I’ll put the intake on permanently.
Nope, the intake manifold has a big assed hole in the bottom. I had to make the above contraption.
I did. Good lord, I've been going to this Mexican place less than 1/2 from my house for 19 years. I've seen all his kids grow up. He and his wife came to my wedding. I guess when my wife called in our order last night and said we'll take two Ritas to go and Drew will pick them up, he hooked us up. OR he is really generous with the tekwilla. Those suckers were 40 oz styrofoam cups with tekwilla slushes in them. My wife only had about 1/3 of hers and passed it to me! Then some Nyquil topped that off.
I haven't slept that good in decades!!! It was a little slow going this morning.
Back to the posting at hand. When is that sucker going to run?????
Here
Despite 0 pounds of boost, the first day out with its ITB'S but no longer any turbo and an a91 what? Stevie MegaSquirt tune...
It smoked its 315s with relative ease in a smoked filled wheelie.
Happy daze Boss.
Yes, I was thinking I could do that to the relay board and jumper across the relay socket that was dedicated to the fidle valve.
But after thinking about it, maybe there isn’t sufficient circuitry in place on the MS2 side of the thing to do that w/o having to add some stinking transistor internally. If the 3x side has the stuff in place to support the IAC valve already, ill just make that mod. Otherwise, I was planning to jumper the fidle relay socket. I gotta go to an electronics store tomorrow (if they’re even open to buy from) to buy that little SOB. I’m gonna remove the entire ecu next week, and hook it up to the ms3x capable jimstim I built a couple of months ago to test stuff as well.
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What does a ”like“ mean?
Can I use the relay board as it with that jumper, or am I using pin 9 on the ms3x output?
I’m gonna have to come down there ain’t I?
just kidding,...I’m hoping that this band of severe weather isnt too severe. The whole freakin day is gonna be bad, with the worst coming around 5-6 pm.
I don’t have anyway to test the relay board, and it’s hooked up to the main connector. If that pin 9 you’re referencing is on the 3x connector, wouldn’t it be a separate circuit?
It's on the way to ya. I sleep pretty hard, but it started storming about 1AM and a couple of times, it was like a 500lb bomb went off when the thunder rolled. It's pretty much been raining non-stop since about 8 last night. My backyard areas with at least 2 inches of standing water. Fortunately the power never went out here, which is amazing considering the amount of lightning that we had.
Well,..I guess I just have to do things 3 times. The solution was a slot. It’s still not a perfect fit, but it’s much better.
Up in the air is the throttle linkage. It had to be two pieces because the Japanee throttle body uses a different attachment style than the cable I had. The cable that wraps around the TB connects to the one mounted on the manifold. ( which is now permanently attached.)
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Up in the air is the throttle linkage. It had to be two pieces because the Japanee throttle body uses a different attachment style than the cable I had. The cable that wraps around the TB connects to the one mounted on the manifold. ( which is now permanently attached.)
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