Ha-ha...Sorry for the mix up Dave#1. i desperately needed a base tune so that Steve could have something to work with. Dave #2 is not anyone I can rely on for anything more than i have gotten from him.Did you get ahold of that “other Dave” to help you with this yet?
There's another you?Did you get ahold of that “other Dave” to help you with this yet?
Yeah, I don’t use punctuation, and talk backwards like Bizarro Superman.There's another you?
Stock mustang eec is a bit different then using a standalone of today’s caliber . We run my buddies 4g63 4 Cyl evo on 2000cc injectors and it’s starts and runs fine with his stock ecu . My car has 120lb injectors in it and sees more out of boost time then it does in boost . Granted you want a middle of the road where the injector is enough at full tilt but controllable at low speed . He shouldn’t have an issue with what he has . I’ve gotten 550lb an hr billet atomizers to idle on pump gas - not lean enough but I have done it .I had 42 lb injectors on my ‘95 GT because I planned to add a supercharger and only wanted to buy them once. MAF was calibrated for 42’s as well, and it never ran right despite being tuned. Took it back to 24’s with a matching MAF, and it ran great. Case in point, I think your massive injectors are your problem.
I think that there is some issue there. When the engine is chugging, and coughing it loses " sync" on/ off. I dont know if that's because the engine is actually dying, then catching, I assumed the loss of sync was as a result of that. Part of the problem is I really dont know what to look for when I do the ignition log thing. I have a cam signal, and I have a crank signal. How they're supposed to look with regard to each other is unclear.Mike did you verify the crank reference angle is correct ? injectors unplugged or shut off . Timing light on Cyl 1 and then making sure the timing ref cranking matches in the ecu .
This is something we had to do in the haltexh on my buddies mustang we did the swap in . Once that was done we chased our tails from initially just having the base fuel map too lean .
I’m sure it’s selected in your IGNITION settings but there is a specific 1j/2j VVTi trigger wheel strategy in your ecu software from what I am seeing . Something worth double checkingI think that there is some issue there. When the engine is chugging, and coughing it loses " sync" on/ off. I dont know if that's because the engine is actually dying, then catching, I assumed the loss of sync was as a result of that. Part of the problem is I really dont know what to look for when I do the ignition log thing. I have a cam signal, and I have a crank signal. How they're supposed to look with regard to each other is unclear.
After reading what I've read though, I'd do like I said, and convert the thing over to wasted spark, and batch fire it if I could. And get rid of the sync issues by jumpering
The cam sensor out of the mix.
But I cant...
The VVTI solenoid just cant be turned off or unplugged. Intake cam timing will be uncontrolled. ( I think)
I'm sure you don't remember, but when I converted the previous hack job I owned to LS coils/crank trigger, I COULD NOT get the fkn thing to run longer than a second. It would start, run for a literal second, and then die. I fought it for MONTHS on end with no success. At some point, someone suggested running a dedicated and separate shielded wire to the cherry sensor. I did and the car started and ran as if it had been running all along.My BMW sales schedule means that I'm back to working on the car about 10 hours a week. That also includes diagnosing. ( and trying to remedy) the issues that are present.
I spoke with the guy that I got the base tune from, he suggested I add a 10k/o resistor across the vr sensor. ( he didnt know that I've ran the VR sensor wire down the middle of the cam valley,...under the new Thermonuclear coil packs (that are right above it), and past all six plug wires ( that in alot of cases, are actually touching that wire).
When you read, ( like I have been doing lately) the recommendation for where and how to route that wire,....is fairly definitive.
NO WHERE NEAR ANY OF THAT SHT!
If he did know that, I'm sure he wouldve told me to "Stop,..and do nothing further until you get that wire way the hell away from the noise generated by the high current sht whose job is to create lightning in the combustion chamber".
Instead, that happened during a conversation with Steve today.
It's not all " Durrrrr" on my part, I always knew I was probably dancing with the devil by routing the wire there.....But remember who we are talking about here......Its not just fabricated stuff that I end up doing more than once.....Its everything I touch.
DAYS ago,.....i ordered a new section of shielded cable that will allow me to re-route the VR sensor wire, completely away from the high current stuff..I'll end up spending part of thursday doing that.
I'm gonna repurpose the existing VR sensor wire as a cam sensor wire. Then, both of them will be shielded, and separated from the potential EMI/RFI that may be coming from the coils.
One day,....one day I'll have a running engine.
What the hell is a cherry sensor?I'm sure you don't remember, but when I converted the previous hack job I owned to LS coils/crank trigger, I COULD NOT get the fkn thing to run longer than a second. It would start, run for a literal second, and then die. I fought it for MONTHS on end with no success. At some point, someone suggested running a dedicated and separate shielded wire to the cherry sensor. I did and the car started and ran as if it had been running all along.
I remember that day distinctly. It was like 8 or 9 and night and I was running up and down my driveway screaming like a goon who had just won the lottery.
The guy that bought that car then ripped it all out and currently has the MS, coils, and trigger for sale at $350.
The red VR sensor we have both used in the past as a pickup for a crank trigger.What the hell is a cherry sensor?
You sir are mistaken. I have never used a red vr sensor.The red VR sensor we have both used in the past as a pickup for a crank trigger.
Tell me about it...Damn, by this point an LS would have started itself.
Nope, I'm confident that Steve can help me. The reason I haven't reached out to him yet is that I know that I have a wiring, or wiring conflict issue. No "remote computer connection" session will change that. Until i can get this bitch to actually run for more than a few anemic seconds...nobody can help me short of them actually working on the thing doing what needs to be done.Uh oh, feeling like I have to talk you off of the cliff.
You want and will have a 1 of 1. While not quite the gee wtf impact of a 250 with a gaping hole sliced thru the block, very unique indeed. It's not like you're trying to get a fusion powered reactor running. It's a 4 stroke engine. Air, Fuel, Compression, Spark. It will run. As long as the cam timing can't advance or retard enough to actually hit a piston, it should be straight forward to get running. Get running right? Well, that's you need a Steve or some other guru.
You pretty much chose the LS of the import world or the 12 valve Cummins of the oil burning world. Maybe you need to cast a wider net in searching out someone with a MS3 tune to get it started.
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