Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#12,041
I ordered a deep aluminum pan for the trans. Not only did I strip the drain plug, but there was a gasket leak as well. That freakin pan cost 210.00...I’m guessing because it is a deep pan, but it was my only option. The standard “ cheaper” pans that several mfg’s sell are all on back order.

What if i install the new pan and remove this thing, attempt to fix the leak, put it back in there, and if I get the leak fixed....the vibration is still there? And now, not only do I have to take the thing out and bail on it, but now I have a brand new 200 pan that can’t be returned because it’s been installed for a day?

Or how about this?

I remove it ( again) and convert it to a 4l80e, and then reinstall that. ( if it’ll fit in the tunnel) .I’d probably have to convert the shifter to work with the different trans, and undoubtedly modify the driveshaft...definitely rebuild the rear tail shaft mount.

What if after all of that, I put it up there and the vibration i’m feeling is coming from the solid mounted engine?

I’m sitting here thinking that i’m kinda between a rock and a hard place.

I guess I could fix the drain plug, and reinstall the pan. Put the tires on the car and drive it to determine if the vibration is gone at the cost of fouling the entire underside of the car with transmission fluid ( cause that’s how bad that leak is).
If it is gone,..I remove the trans, and find and fix that leak ( pretty sure it’s the pump lip seal, or it’s coming out of the bolt hole that i tapped larger when the pump bolt stripped.)
If it’s not...try and figure out if i’m feeling engine harmonics or driveline vibration :nonono:.
 
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#12,043
Since i’m just about talking to myself here sometimes, I’ll keep on....cause through the process of elimination, I come up with a plan, and through that same process, an ultimate solution.

It makes sense to me that the vibration is not engine harmonics. The last pull apart revealed a bent flexplate, and the converter pilot wasn’t supported..I’m 90% convinced that I have solved that problem.

Where ever that leak is coming from, it all has to do with what i changed last since it wasn’t leaking before. And i did two things different from the last time.
1. I changed out the front pump. ( Never should’ve touched it in hindsight).
2. As a direct result of that, one of the bolts that go through the adapter, and into the front pump stripped. I had to tap that hole larger. Maybe i’ve broken through somewhere, maybe the larger hole caused that area to crack.

I just got back from HF. I bought some long assed 3/8” extension..Hopefully I can remove the transmission by itself, and leave the engine alone.
 
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#12,048
Well then, for the two of you..

I have to keep the variables at bay...the what ifs from rearing their heads..primarily to keep the 3amd from waking me. But also because I'm really at the end of my rope here.
I was pretty careful I didnt damage the lip seal when I installed the front pump, but it's very easy to do now that I've cut notches into the transition ramp that the pump slides into.
( think one piece tapered piston ring compressor)
Those notches were cut to allow the adapter to sit flush against the top of the pump, and the tapered transition stood proud of the front pump face. despite the fact that I smoothed the cut edges, it still tries to pinch that seal when you slide the pump into the transmission.
Either I nicked that gasket, or hurt the case in some way tapping that pump bolt hole.

I'd be tempted to just get a new case and transfer my junk over into it. I'd want to leave that front pump transition uncut, so this wont happen again, but that would force a redo on the adapter spacings,..which could cause a misalignment..which I dont want.

Each day I'm one step closer to just saying fck it.
 
#12,049
Mike,
I'm trying to picture this all in my head. My initial is that you can seal the bolt that might be entering a fluid passage in the same manner as a bolt through oil or water in a block. The pan, well I'd recommend fixing it vice possibly wasting money on a new one. Once the lug is fixed, use gasket maker to ensure the pan seals even if slightly out of true. Either way, you will find out if you still have the vibration or not. Just a thought
 
#12,050
rdharper02 said:
Mike,
I'm trying to picture this all in my head. My initial is that you can seal the bolt that might be entering a fluid passage in the same manner as a bolt through oil or water in a block. The pan, well I'd recommend fixing it vice possibly wasting money on a new one. Once the lug is fixed, use gasket maker to ensure the pan seals even if slightly out of true. Either way, you will find out if you still have the vibration or not. Just a thought
Click to expand...
Here...back in december when this was all done..
www.stangnet.com

1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

You could've had a coyote in there.... You can smack yourself for saying that.
www.stangnet.com www.stangnet.com
You can kinda see the little feet that weld to the the ring that are bolted to the front pump, they are on the previous page just in case.
 
#12,051
Hi Mike.
6C128687-5704-4F13-BBB0-5064EEB98DA3.gif

I‘m reading your stuff too, just not smart enough to really comment with intelligence. So then...
36073A87-CA92-46FD-B0B3-FBF6AF27DBDB.webp
 
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#12,056
Every time I consider a worst case scenario....it’s just too worst case.

I think:........”If I have to bail on the existing trans,....what’s it gonna cost to change it?”

Every solution throws 3k minimum right out the door. It wouldn’t be so bad if I anticipated this...but obviously I haven’t. It really sticks in my throat thinking that I’ve caused this as a result of me stripping a bolt. After looking at the last reply and providing the link to the earlier pics i’ve posted in the past, I can see that the bolt that stripped is probably where the leak is coming from.
 
#12,057
Take it apart and see - that's the only way to be sure, and once you know you can decide how to proceed. Right now you're stressing yourself out with what if scenarios. I do the same thing and the best solution is to just get on with it. It's often not as bad as you think.

A91 is right - you need to get it running and drive it to help pinpoint the vibration or determine if it even exists (get someone else to go with you).
 
#12,058
Honestly, I like to yank your chain, but as always, I am impressed. #1 you post the good, bad, and the ugly redo's. Most people don't show their screw ups. I feel like you a lot of times. I got out with a plan. In my mind it is some Chip Foose stuff about to happen. Then reality, (my lack of real creative talent) slips in and some :poo: that Roadkill wouldn't want ends up.

#2 You're not taking the bellybutton route. Even though I'm doing the 2.3, it is supposed to fit in a Fox and not a big challenge to get a T5Z, TKO, or toploader behind it.

I agree your course of action is probably not even :leghump: with the transmission until you at least just fill it up, live with the drip, take it out for a quick spin and see if your vibration is gone. After the drive, you'll know the course of action. No vibes, either fix your case or get a new one and mod it. Vibes, drink some cold ones, get :poo: faced, then drunk shop. Always works for me. That's why I have a whole garage of :poo: I don't need!
 
#12,060
I think the deep pan will be here today. I'm positive that there is a leak that is related to one of the two things I've already guessed at. I've spent all last night, and this morning looking at options to PERMANENTLY solve this. Ive looked hard at the 4l80 path, a T56, and a 6r80...and they all have some form of pre-made adapter to allow me to make it work out there....But..
I want to make what I have work.

I keep looking at what its gonna take to get it out of there though..and I gotta admit the single biggest issue I have with all of this isnt having to remove the transmission....its how nearly impossible itll be just trying to get to the 2 top bolts.

Had I known that I'd be taking this fcking thing out as often as I change my mind, I'd have cut an access panel to get to those bolts while it was out the last time.
 
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