1980 Granada - what all can I use?

ultrastang · Mar 10, 2007

ratio411 said:
Also, one of those nut/stud pairs should be holding a tag.
The ratio is noted with some other numbers on that tag.
It will have the first number of the ratio, then a large blank gap, then the last two numbers of the ratio.
Something like this:
2._______79

If it says 2.79, it is an 8"...
A 9" rear would have a ratio like 2.47 or 2.75.
The Granada didn't come with any decent ratios. They are all very tall 'highway' gears. I doubt they were even available with limited slip.
However, if the ratio reads something like:
2.___L____75
The "L" in the middle is for limited slip. (aka TractionLok or Posi)

If it's a 9-inch, the ratios will be one of four that were available: 2.47, 2.50, 2.75 or 3.00:1. SOME had Traction-Lok differentials, but not many.

http://www.ultrastang.com/Rearinfo.asp?Page_ID=5

ratio411 · Mar 10, 2007

First, I would dump the big chunk of metal off the front of it.
The whole thing is bolt in.
The u-joint should be fine, however I have never studied up on the 6 cyl 68 u-joint. If there is a difference, you may need a "hybrid" joint. You would need to take both joints into a parts house or clutch/driveline parts house and get a hybrid joint with 2 bearings to match your shaft and 2 bearings to match the 8" yoke.
That is common when swapping to a 9" rear, but I wouldn't think with an 8".

Another issue you may have, but you can check with a measure tape...
Your original axle may have smaller diameter tubes than the 8".
Again, common when swapping 8" to 9", but probably not an issue here.
If the tubes are smaller, then you will need to use all of the hardware from the Granada along with the rear itself. The u-bolts and shock plates for the most part.

Now that I think about it, if the rear u-joint is different than your car's, you might measure the Granada driveshaft and see if it will swap. May, may not, but it only takes a second to measure.

tjnavyblue · Mar 10, 2007

This is alot of great info ratio411. I'll keep everyone updated on this, as I'm sure I'm not the first person (nor the last) to switch an 8" into an I6 car. I'll just dive in until I run into a problem.

I don't plan on running much over 300 or 325 hp (eventually) with a 5.0, so from what I've read this rear should be able to handle it.

D.Hearne · Mar 11, 2007

If some one wants a 3.40 ratio 8" rear, I have one to sell. Fixin to pull it from the 77 Comet I just bought. Same rear as the 65-66 Stangs as far as width. 56" axle to axle.

ultrastang · Mar 11, 2007

ratio411 said:
...Another issue you may have, but you can check with a measure tape...
Your original axle may have smaller diameter tubes than the 8".
Again, common when swapping 8" to 9", but probably not an issue here.
If the tubes are smaller, then you will need to use all of the hardware from the Granada along with the rear itself. The u-bolts and shock plates for the most part.

The Granada 8-inch housing will have 2¾" diameter axle tubes where the U-bolts fit around the tubes, going into the spring perches.

tjnavyblue · Mar 11, 2007

That sway bar doesn't look like it's 15/16's... it looks thinner. The car is a I6 - could that have something to do with it?

ultrastang · Mar 11, 2007

tjnavyblue said:
That sway bar doesn't look like it's 15/16's... it looks thinner. The car is a I6 - could that have something to do with it?

That may be the case if the Granada has a 6-cylinder. I picked up a 15/16" swaybar off a V-8 Granada for $10 bucks. (cheap performance upgrade )

Since you mention that the car has a 6-cylinder, does the rear end have a "bulge" on the back, center, of the housing? or, is the center just "rounded"?

The 9-inch drum brake rear end I have came from a 1980 Mercury Monarch that was powered by a 250 cubic inch 6-cylinder.

1980 Granada/Monarch 9-inch drum brake 9-inch rear end housing:
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/5914/monarch9inchbj9.jpg

tjnavyblue · Mar 11, 2007

here's a few pics
I think it's definitely an 8" but you guys can confirm.

tjnavyblue · Mar 11, 2007

sexy beast aint it?

96 DOHC Cobra · Mar 11, 2007

Yep, 8." Nothing wrong with that.

tjnavyblue · Mar 15, 2007

Hi

I got the rear end out and on jack stands. It looks good.

So I'm in the process of the taking off the spindles, and in the directions from CSRP, it says to really whale on the 'mounting bosses' with a 3lb hammer. I just wanted to double check before I start whaling on my front suspension - where is it exactly I'm supposed to hit? It looks like I would have to hit the lower A arm upwards, and the upper A-arm downwards to loosen the studs from the spindles. Is this right?

Thanks

bnickel · Mar 15, 2007

tjnavyblue said:
Hi

I got the rear end out and on jack stands. It looks good.

So I'm in the process of the taking off the spindles, and in the directions from CSRP, it says to really whale on the 'mounting bosses' with a 3lb hammer. I just wanted to double check before I start whaling on my front suspension - where is it exactly I'm supposed to hit? It looks like I would have to hit the lower A arm upwards, and the upper A-arm downwards to loosen the studs from the spindles. Is this right?

Thanks

you don't need to do that. here is how i do it:

loosen the ball joint castle nuts but do not remove them and hit the spindle on the side of the boss where the ball joint bolts in.

generally just a few sharp whacks will pop it loose.

tjnavyblue · Mar 15, 2007

I guess I'm feeling mechanically slow today. Do the studs then come off with the spindle, or does the spindle somehow slip off the studs? I've been trying this for two hours and feel like I'm seriously missing something.

-the castle nuts are loose
-the tie rod stud is now off (done by taking the castle nut almost all the way off and gently tapping it to drive the stud down through the mounting hole)

-the spindle is still on the ball joints. After it 'pops loose' what then?

Do I need to take the lower A arm off?

Thanks guys. These are probably dumb questions but I don't want to break something. I haven't done much with suspension before.

Again, thanks.

D.Hearne · Mar 15, 2007

To loosen the ball joints, it's sonetimes necessary to use a "pickle fork" inserted between the joint and spindle. Looks like a hefty tuning fork. They sell em in most parts houses. Autozone probably rents em.

tjnavyblue · Mar 16, 2007

I finally got them off. Just as you guys mentioned, a "few" sharp whacks and they came off.

I guess as others have found - sometimes you have to stop posting and just go wrench for awhile

Maybe I should post some pics of my mustang...

Decurion · Mar 16, 2007

D.Hearne said:
If some one wants a 3.40 ratio 8" rear, I have one to sell. Fixin to pull it from the 77 Comet I just bought. Same rear as the 65-66 Stangs as far as width. 56" axle to axle.

PMd you.

tjnavyblue · Apr 2, 2007

Learning alot about front suspension here.

I put the discs on the mustang yesterday. When I was torqueing down one of the castle nuts on the ball joint stud I noticed the stud was turning with the castle nut (not becoming tighter).

Is this normal, or does this mean the ball joint is damaged?

ratio411 · Apr 2, 2007

D.Hearne said:
If some one wants a 3.40 ratio 8" rear, I have one to sell. Fixin to pull it from the 77 Comet I just bought. Same rear as the 65-66 Stangs as far as width. 56" axle to axle.

Hey D, just a heads up...
If that is the stock rear from the Comet, it is narrrower than a 65-66 rear.
Roughly 1.5" narrower.
Not that it wouldn't fit a Stang, just the buyer might need 2 know that.
If they have their aftermarket rims dialed in just so (backspacing), that little bit might put them into the leaf springs.

gunmetal5.0 · Apr 2, 2007

Sweet ride. What do you plan to do with it when you're finished with mechanical stuff?

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