I've recently picked up my 7 mustang but my first fox a 1987 5.0. The car seems to be getting warm about 230-260. It has a new water pump. New thermostat and the fan clutch looks new as well and it has resistance when I turn it. All fluids are checking out. Is there something I might be missing before I replace the radiator? It doesn't look to be in terrible shape but it is 196k miles on it so it might just be time. Thanks in advance for any help!
Engine 1987 5.0 overheating at both idle and driving
- Thread starter Dylan87haych
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HemiRick
I'd be looking at jacking under the house
I would say it is time to replace that radiator also is the shroud and puke tank there and functional?
If it is not the Radiator like Rick suggested, it needs burped or bled like monkeybutt says. Use the search for those terms. I have not had problems with this, but others swear having the nose up or squeezing the upper radiator hose are needed ways to get the air pockets out.
Visually inspecting the radiator inside for growths is free, as is burping the coolant system. That’s the order I’d go in, even without a cool thermometer.
Visually inspecting the radiator inside for growths is free, as is burping the coolant system. That’s the order I’d go in, even without a cool thermometer.
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Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
I’d also recommend a no spill funnel. I finally got one this year.. it makes it easy. Not to mention no mess!
You found something better than my large soda bottles with the bottom cut off?
- Mar 2, 2015
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Also beware that a couple people here have found brand new water pumps that were defective and didn't circulate coolant well.
I agree with proper filling and burping the system. Check the oil and coolant for a blown head gasket. There is a head gasket checker tool that most parts store will lend out. Its got to be straight water in the system and the directions need to be followed cemetery. Its not a complicated process.
Always makes me nervous to purchase a car that has a complete new cooling system. The previous owner was definitely having issues.
Another thing to check is the coolant temperature sender located in the drivers side of the lower intake...around top between the ac compressor and upper intake. If you don't have boiling over at 260 degrees then it could be giving a false reading to the guage.
When the temperature is in the middle you should feel warm air being pulled through the radiator by the fan. The fan shroud is also important and should be there and fully intact. If the air is cold coming through the radiator then its got a coolant flow issue....thermostat...low coolant....big air bubble....or water pump not circulating.
Another check is to wrap your hand around the upper radiator hose....and then around the lower hose. The upper hose should be hot...the lower hose should be warm. It the upper is hot and the lower is cold then the radiator has a restriction. If the upper is cold...no circulation...could be thermostat....air....or water pump. An extremely blocked radiator could cause a flow issue but would cause the lower hose to collapse when engine is revved....unless it still has the factory spring in the hose.
I agree with proper filling and burping the system. Check the oil and coolant for a blown head gasket. There is a head gasket checker tool that most parts store will lend out. Its got to be straight water in the system and the directions need to be followed cemetery. Its not a complicated process.
Always makes me nervous to purchase a car that has a complete new cooling system. The previous owner was definitely having issues.
Another thing to check is the coolant temperature sender located in the drivers side of the lower intake...around top between the ac compressor and upper intake. If you don't have boiling over at 260 degrees then it could be giving a false reading to the guage.
When the temperature is in the middle you should feel warm air being pulled through the radiator by the fan. The fan shroud is also important and should be there and fully intact. If the air is cold coming through the radiator then its got a coolant flow issue....thermostat...low coolant....big air bubble....or water pump not circulating.
Another check is to wrap your hand around the upper radiator hose....and then around the lower hose. The upper hose should be hot...the lower hose should be warm. It the upper is hot and the lower is cold then the radiator has a restriction. If the upper is cold...no circulation...could be thermostat....air....or water pump. An extremely blocked radiator could cause a flow issue but would cause the lower hose to collapse when engine is revved....unless it still has the factory spring in the hose.
YepYou found something better than my large soda bottles with the bottom cut off?
I don't even use the Lisle funnel kit anymore.
This is faster, removes all air pockets, and virtually no mess at all.
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