Engine 1988 GT CA MAF plug different size?

The list is incorrect. 8LF/8LD are the mass air ECU's. I have an '88 Speed density car that i converted to mass air. That's not the right ECU number

Another easy way to check...

84eba231-e8dc-4022-a221-84dc7f1d3d3b.large.jpg


See where it says SFI-MA2? That means Sequential Fuel Injection - Mass Air

The Speed density ECU's will say SFI-SD1. SD meaning speed density
 
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Ok you’re correct just zoomed in on my ECU pic and it indeed says SFI-MA2. Im going to move MAF sensor, unloom wires and take some better pics of whats going on. Guy i bought it from said it came with wires like that and was told it was mass air converted i dont think he knew cali cars came maf.

And just a heads up I appreciate you so much even taking the time to reply and help me, i really do. I know some of this may be covered all over the forum.
 

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I guess the first thing to ask is if the car is an original CA car. While it is the correct ECU for a 1988 mass air car, it doesn't rule out that the car was originally speed density and someone converted it using an 1988 mass air parts car, or something like that.

Also, looks like someone took the red power wire from the mass air and tapped into power at the WOT relay? I'm still trying to deciper what's going on from the pics
 
Ok so i got a pic of dso number and its 72 San Jose CA. Ill post pics
 

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More pics
 

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Ok so i got a pic of dso number and its 72 San Jose CA. Ill post pics

So safe to say it's an original CA car and that ECU is the original ECU and the car was factory equipped with mass air.

From the photo it looks like they didn't touch the MAF wiring. They cut the pink/blue wire and tapped a red wire into the WOT relay. Need to read the EVTM to see what that pink wire is supposed to do.
 
Looks like pink/lt blue originates from pin 16 on the ECU on page 29

On page 113 it's going to the WOT relay.

So looks like that wiring change has to do with the WOT relay and AC compressor function. I don't see anything with the MAF harness that looks hacked up there.

Have you pulled the engine codes?
 
Im going to look up how to pull engine codes. Never done it on an older car. Will let you know what i get. Also worth a mention its an auto, the transmission was slipping bad and i drove it through tahoe National forrest from reno to cali. Barley made it up any hills an the transmission pooped on me when i made it to cali. Maybe the altitude change messed something up. Was easy to start at first now its hard to start. Cranks but takes forever to turnover. If i bump the key instead of holding it’ll start in maybe 7- 10 bumps. If i hold it’ll crank for a long time then turnover but barley, but i will start.
 
With key on, check for power between red and black wire. You should have battery voltage here. One wire is vehicle power the other ground.

If you have power test for signal output

Blue/Orange wire is the MAF Signal
Tan/blue wire is MAF signal return


Stick a pin in both of those wires and test for voltage with engine running. Should be around 0.6 volts or so at idle.
 
With key on, check for power between red and black wire. You should have battery voltage here. One wire is vehicle power the other ground.

If you have power test for signal output

Blue/Orange wire is the MAF Signal
Tan/blue wire is MAF signal return


Stick a pin in both of those wires and test for voltage with engine running. Should be around 0.6 volts or so at idle.

I Have power on red wire no power on the black with key on. I used a test light