All the parts mentioned have less than 50 miles on them with the exception of the transmission but it doesnt grind or leak so it's good for now. I've checked the fuel relay and the fuses with a test light and there's been no red flags there. Computer grounds are properly done and dont seem To have ever been touched vacuum lines are all good and proper. I initially assumed mechanical failure because it abruptly stopped working after giving consistent behavior for two days while I drove it with varying degrees of hardness. It idled high but steadily and started strongly. Every replacement part is OEM spec as I was told it was a stock car so I've been operating off that assumption. I know the cats are shot because before the fuel pump and transmission were replaced it shot fire out of the left tailpipe and not in a safe way. Would be sometimes small sometimes so violent I could feel it in my chest. Also forgot to mention when I had it running for a little bit the other day there was a small amount of white smoke coming from the throttle body and possibly a small amount from the same tailpipe that shot fire. Also inside of the throttle body after taking off the air filter I noticed a black substance which I assumed was oil but I didnt check to be sure as I was just spraying it with starter fluid and trying to solve its other issues but that may very well be part of it. If I've got a blown head gasket I do luckily have replacement gaskets for everything.
Engine 1988 gt crank no start
- Thread starter Crexun
- Start date
You are going to have to find and fix the problem and I suspect that it is computer related. If you live near a Harbor Freight Tools Store you can get a Digital Multimeter for less than $7. It isn't fancy or rugged, it will work for what you need it to do.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
With warm engine, unplug IAB (IAC) valve & set idle stop screw to desired idle. IAB only adds air by bypassing the throttle plate. Think of it as a carburetor choke.
Set timing with timing light to 10degBTDC.
Sounds like you also have charging problems. If alternator has external fan, it's a 2G & is barely adequate for a stock engine & is prone to starting fires at the output connector (the square one, not the oval one).
Fuel delivery problems won't show on EEC codes, since there are no sensors monitoring pressure & flow. New fuel pump (which you did) eliminates many problems with a 30 year old car. Did you measure fuel pressure at the rail? The fuel pressure regulator may not be doing it's job. At idle, pressure should be 40 psi with the vacuum line disconnected & plugged, 35 psi with it connected.
Set timing with timing light to 10degBTDC.
Sounds like you also have charging problems. If alternator has external fan, it's a 2G & is barely adequate for a stock engine & is prone to starting fires at the output connector (the square one, not the oval one).
Fuel delivery problems won't show on EEC codes, since there are no sensors monitoring pressure & flow. New fuel pump (which you did) eliminates many problems with a 30 year old car. Did you measure fuel pressure at the rail? The fuel pressure regulator may not be doing it's job. At idle, pressure should be 40 psi with the vacuum line disconnected & plugged, 35 psi with it connected.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
I will check fuel pressure and be buying a multimeter this friday I appreciate the help once again. I'm unsure if the alternator has an external fan I believe it's just the stock alternator as it has the same aged look as the rest of the motor. I've tested it a few times and its passed but I dont know if that would eliminate the problem you mentioned. If it ends up being a computer issue and I have to replace it would you guys know somewhere besides Ebay I could purchase one?
Blown88GT
Founding Member
AutoZone. $100 w/core exchange.
https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...d=ecu&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false
Blown88GT
Founding Member
Pin-1, Black/Orange stripe, KAPWR (Keep Alive Power)
Pin-46, Black/White stripe, Signal Return for many sensors (ECT, ACT, TPS, etc)
Pin-46, Black/White stripe, Signal Return for many sensors (ECT, ACT, TPS, etc)
Blown88GT
Founding Member
It's there, you're counting from the wrong side. Now you know where pin-1 is, you can figure out all the others.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
You were told correctly, solder & heat shrink.
You could try a butt splice, but they usually just pull out.
There are heat shrink solder seals, $1.66 for 10 pieces. They might have these at the auto parts store. Remove ECU from connector, wrap a towel around all the other wires & a heat gun does the job. I put these on my watch list. Practice on another pair of wires first.
You want the red ones.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=202406614661
You could try a butt splice, but they usually just pull out.
There are heat shrink solder seals, $1.66 for 10 pieces. They might have these at the auto parts store. Remove ECU from connector, wrap a towel around all the other wires & a heat gun does the job. I put these on my watch list. Practice on another pair of wires first.
You want the red ones.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=202406614661
Heat shrink tubing is available at Radio Shack or other electronics supply stores.
See the video below for help on soldering and heat shrinking wiring. There is a lot of useful help and hints if you don’t do automotive electrical work all the time.
View: http://youtu.be/uaYdCRjDr4A
Computer wiring harness connector, wire side
Computer wiring harness connector, computer side
Blown88GT
Founding Member
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