Engine 1989 header xpipe cel

[justin82]

A leak in the exhaust from not being properly installed could set off O2 sensor codes. Sounds like you might have a leak where the mid pipe is bolted to the headers. Do you hear any ticking? When my passenger side header gasket went bad (from not being properly tightened) it sounded like a metallic tick. It basically sounded like a noisy rocker until it warmed up. Either the O2 sensors were damaged, or you have an exhaust leak from one of the flanges not being properly tightened and/or adjusted in place (probably causing the whistling). Does it whistle when you rev it?

it only whistles at about 3200rpms, as far as if I'm in the cabin just driving...I cant hear anything until 3200...I do hear a faint ticking when I get under the hood and put my ear close to the engine....but I've checked the headers, they're tight....just haven't checked, headers to mid pipe

 

[justin82]

I actually hear ticking

 

[General karthief]

Likely your friend didn't get that egr pipe sealed and thats what you hear ticking at idle and maybe the whistle at higher rpms

 

[justin82]

but power loss?...o2?

 

[General karthief]

If the cel is lit yes

 

[justin82]

so....change the o2 first?....ok I will

 

[General karthief]

Fix the leak first, o2 may be ok unless its old

 

[justin82]

Fix the leak first, o2 may be ok unless its old

old.....rusted, looks bad....probably original

 

[General karthief]

Can't hurt, just get a quality one, nothing where you have to splice the wires aftermarket junk

 

[justin82]

bosh?...I bought it the other day, cause i thought, the sensor was the prob

 

[General karthief]

Bosch, yea.

 

[justin82]

u guys are great...thank u

 

[justin82]

ok had it checked out....o2 was supposedly good....think I got the whistling answer, answered....but upon inspection my self the other day, I did think the pulleys were bad....when removing the old mid pipe, there was a thin "L" type pipe coming out which was closed off, so we did the same thing on the new one...as far as my"power loss"...I noticed right away instead of having to shift at 45-4700rpms....I now can wait until over 5000....so maybe I need to shift differently?....that would explain why i feel more power kick in after i shift, let's say from 3rd to 4th?...does that make sense?

thank guys

 

[justin82]

it does what to die, on a cold start tho....warm start , is fine...ok I'm done...lol

 

[justin82]

sorry....this is what I was talking about....

 

[General karthief]

That is the other end of air injection stuff, Thermactor
Mustangs.

The thermactor air diverter either pumps air into the head or the exhaust, that pipe your referring to is for the exhaust side of the diverter valve

 

[justin82]

so, should it be plugged, like the old one was?....thanks man....maybe I have no power loss?...maybe I'm for some reason, shifting wrong now? power band has changed...Idk...all i know is i press the pedal, and i get power, 4-6 seconds later....ughhh...thanks for the suggestions and help, guys

 

[General karthief]

If you no longer have the air pump, plug the little pipe you have circled and make sure the pipes mounted to the back of the heads are sealed too

 

[5.0specialist]

What Karthief said^. I had a smog outlet on my X pipe chopped off (used to have cats) and welded at an exhaust shop when I had the cat back changed. I also just capped the cylinder head smog pipe with a thick rubber vacuum plug. Might need to change it after a while though since the engine heat causes them to dry out and crack.

 

[justin82]

so, I changed out the o2 sensor today...drove it a while, and no CEL...YAY....did do a KOER TEST....
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