1990 GT, R block stroker, PTK, 88mm Turbonetics, Street Car Build

#81
NikwoaC said:
What size bore is your block? I believe the AFR 225s are actually intended for 4.125" bore and up.

I know different people have different opinions, but I've never been very impressed with any of the AFR heads flow numbers, including the 225s. The TW 205 has less valve and roughly the same cross section, yet most flow bench results I've seen puts the TW 205 right around the AFR 225 or even better (on the intake side). I also like the TW over the AFR because it has stock exhaust port location.

I'm also admittedly a Trick Flow nut swinger.

Either head is going to make stupid power in that application, though.
Click to expand...

I agree, im not impressed with AFR numbers either. I'm hoping the ridiculous head work done to mine make them run but i'd much prefer a 240 TFS on there instead of a puny AFR 185. Though my builder says the runners sizes are about a 210 now. How that compares to TFS i dunno since i was on vacation when he finished them and never had them flowed.
 

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#84
If you keep the gears above 3.55 you might get a couple summers out of the TKO. The kind of power he is talking with that sized turbo could kill a 600 easy. There arent many guys with that big of a turbo and a stick for a reason. This thread has some good info, pretty similiar to what the OP's goals are id say

5-speed turbo fox deep in the 9's VIDEO & TIMESLIPS - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

Shaolin Crane said:
Not even close, a 700hp turbo will make at least 850rwtq. Enough to rape it like a t5. Only option really is a gnarley faceplated drag only trans(still iffy) or a viper spec(again iffy)
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I think viper spec would be the way to go actually. Great gearing for a street car. Liberty informed me that faceplating dosent raise the torque rating of a transmission

Shaolin Crane said:
I'd do a manual valve body and paddle shifters but thats me and ive been dreaming about a paddle shifter setup for a while.
Click to expand...

That would be sweet. A friend of mine is doing this with his toyota crown. 2JZ powered with a pro mod 91mm turbo, paddle shifters connected to a th400.
 
#85
90lxcoupe said:
If you keep the gears above 3.55 you might get a couple summers out of the TKO. The kind of power he is talking with that sized turbo could kill a 600 easy. There arent many guys with that big of a turbo and a stick for a reason. This thread has some good info, pretty similiar to what the OP's goals are id say

5-speed turbo fox deep in the 9's VIDEO & TIMESLIPS - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum



I think viper spec would be the way to go actually. Great gearing for a street car. Liberty informed me that faceplating dosent raise the torque rating of a transmission



That would be sweet. A friend of mine is doing this with his toyota crown. 2JZ powered with a pro mod 91mm turbo, paddle shifters connected to a th400.
Click to expand...

Yeah but that car will likely make more then 750lbs that the viper spec is good for.

I thought that faceplating just pulled the excessive stress off the gears when shifting. Maybe not raise the torque rating but should make it last a bit longer between rebuilds.

I want to do a paddle shifter on the 07 since it has the 5r55.

Paddle shifter, e-force, h/c/i with forged rods :drool:
 
#86
Nik, the receipt for the shortblock states it's a 4.050 bore. I was told it's a 347 based stroker with the final cubic inces measuring 352 after all is said and done. The receipt also says $6224.95 haha.

There's a custom Comp cam solid lifter cam in the motor now that is so radical I'd have to run an external vacuum pump in order to have power brakes. I'll be converting to an Ed Curtis custom hydraulic roller camshaft and whatever valvetrain components he recommends for it.

I think I'm going to go with the TW CNC 205s, Super Victor manifold, and CSU blow thru carb, probably an 850cfm unless CSU recommends otherwise.

As far as a trans goes, I'm going to be doing a ton of research on which way to go. I can't emphasize how much I do not want to run an automatic trans in this car. I guess a built 4r70w or a RMVB th400 would be the way to go if I have to. I've read that the built 4r70w's can hold upwards of 800 horsepower.
 
#88
Shaolin Crane said:
Yeah but that car will likely make more then 750lbs that the viper spec is good for.

I thought that faceplating just pulled the excessive stress off the gears when shifting. Maybe not raise the torque rating but should make it last a bit longer between rebuilds.
Click to expand...

The guy in that thread i posted had the viper spec trans, and had problems with when he had a 3.27 gear, but the transmission survived low 9 second passes with the 3.73s and probably was probably making the same or more power than this setup we are talking about. He also stated that the cam was pretty radical too.

Faceplating dosent pull any stress off the gears while shifting, it just makes it easier to powershift because instead of having the small area of a synchro, you have a huge window of the lugs that replace the synchro.

Clutch choice is the best way to ensure long transmission life. If you get some ultra grabby spec stage 3+ or stronger that is like an on off switch the transmission is going to take all of the shock from shifting and thats where you might crack the case or break some gears. I dont understand the logic of someone that gets a clutch that will hold 8 or 900 ft lbs and put a transmission behind it that is good for 600 ft lbs. The clutch should be like a fuse.
 
#91
Jeff, I agree with everything you're saying, but this car will likely never see a 1/4 mile in it's life so long as I own it. I'm not going to be dumping the clutch at full boost from a stoplight on slicks. This will be a 100% dedicated street car. I'll most likely be screwing around with it late at night and making highway pulls when a jerk off in a EVO pulls up beside me thinking he rules the world. I think for my purposes, a stick will last in this combo for a very long time.
 
#92
90lxcoupe said:
The guy in that thread i posted had the viper spec trans, and had problems with when he had a 3.27 gear, but the transmission survived low 9 second passes with the 3.73s and probably was probably making the same or more power than this setup we are talking about. He also stated that the cam was pretty radical too.

Faceplating dosent pull any stress off the gears while shifting, it just makes it easier to powershift because instead of having the small area of a synchro, you have a huge window of the lugs that replace the synchro.

Clutch choice is the best way to ensure long transmission life. If you get some ultra grabby spec stage 3+ or stronger that is like an on off switch the transmission is going to take all of the shock from shifting and thats where you might crack the case or break some gears. I dont understand the logic of someone that gets a clutch that will hold 8 or 900 ft lbs and put a transmission behind it that is good for 600 ft lbs. The clutch should be like a fuse.
Click to expand...
I know how faceplating works, seems there is a bit of conflicting reports among companies, some say faceplating raises the torque rating some dont. Dont forget, i have a gfroce apart right now and those straight cut gears and dog rings are just so purdy. I'm not a drag racer though, so im not 100% sure what it takes to make 1000hp last from a clutch dump. 500hp is really all a turn burner needs.
 
#93
1991notchbackLX said:
Nik, the receipt for the shortblock states it's a 4.050 bore. I was told it's a 347 based stroker with the final cubic inces measuring 352 after all is said and done. The receipt also says $6224.95 haha.

There's a custom Comp cam solid lifter cam in the motor now that is so radical I'd have to run an external vacuum pump in order to have power brakes. I'll be converting to an Ed Curtis custom hydraulic roller camshaft and whatever valvetrain components he recommends for it.

I think I'm going to go with the TW CNC 205s, Super Victor manifold, and CSU blow thru carb, probably an 850cfm unless CSU recommends otherwise.

As far as a trans goes, I'm going to be doing a ton of research on which way to go. I can't emphasize how much I do not want to run an automatic trans in this car. I guess a built 4r70w or a RMVB th400 would be the way to go if I have to. I've read that the built 4r70w's can hold upwards of 800 horsepower.
Click to expand...
Displacement comes out to 350

Ed will probably recommend for you the same morel link bar lifters he hooked me up with, for a great price too, and they are beefy ****ers.

Talk to him about the heads too, he'll be able to hook you up with some beastly TF 240's with a nasty port job and for around $2500. Ed's an advocated of big head little engine as well, if i had the cash i would have his 240's
 
#94
Shaolin Crane said:
Displacement comes out to 350

Ed will probably recommend for you the same morel link bar lifters he hooked me up with, for a great price too, and they are beefy ****ers.

Talk to him about the heads too, he'll be able to hook you up with some beastly TF 240's with a nasty port job and for around $2500. Ed's an advocated of big head little engine as well, if i had the cash i would have his 240's
Click to expand...

There's a nice set of link bar lifters in the motor already, along with pushrods. The motor was originally built for a set of old school trickflow high ports. I also have a pic of the Comp cam card that states it's .704 gross valve lift, duration @.050 is 258 intake and 267 exhaust, with 112.0 lobe separation.

dscn1679g.jpg


I'll ask the cam builder about the heads for sure. I want a set of TF 205 or larger. With a Y2k88 I can probably put a set of GT40P's on this damn thing and make 600+ though haha.
 
#95
1991notchbackLX said:
There's a nice set of link bar lifters in the motor already, along with pushrods. The motor was originally built for a set of old school trickflow high ports. I also have a pic of the Comp cam card that states it's .704 gross valve lift, duration @.050 is 258 intake and 267 exhaust, with 112.0 lobe separation.

dscn1679g.jpg


I'll ask the cam builder about the heads for sure. I want a set of TF 205 or larger. With a Y2k88 I can probably put a set of GT40P's on this damn thing and make 600+ though haha.
Click to expand...
Yeah but those are solid, mine are hydraulic. He'll be able to hook you up with the same ones.

Go bigger then 205's on the heads, im sure Ed will agree too.

The ls3 has a 263cc runner for just a 373ci , after cnc porting or aftermarket heads they are as big as 300cc.

Go big or go home.
 
#98
90lxcoupe said:
The guy in that thread i posted had the viper spec trans, and had problems with when he had a 3.27 gear, but the transmission survived low 9 second passes with the 3.73s and probably was probably making the same or more power than this setup we are talking about. He also stated that the cam was pretty radical too.

Faceplating dosent pull any stress off the gears while shifting, it just makes it easier to powershift because instead of having the small area of a synchro, you have a huge window of the lugs that replace the synchro.

Clutch choice is the best way to ensure long transmission life. If you get some ultra grabby spec stage 3+ or stronger that is like an on off switch the transmission is going to take all of the shock from shifting and thats where you might crack the case or break some gears. I dont understand the logic of someone that gets a clutch that will hold 8 or 900 ft lbs and put a transmission behind it that is good for 600 ft lbs. The clutch should be like a fuse.
Click to expand...

My point as well. The argument that a tko600 won't last is all depending on how you drive. What's a t5 rated at? I have COUNTLESS passes at the strip and more spirited driving than I could even recall on a t5. Albeit I am only pushing 500 horse and maybe 20 less tq.... Isn't that just a BIT above the "ratings" for a t5..... :rlaugh:

My saving grace was the king cobra clutch.
 
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