1991 ford mustang lx, what intake manifold is this?

Bodywork/paint mostly. That front drivers corner looks pushed in slightly. Would need to look closer at that area. Paint job looks like a cheap respray. I see the ford emblem painted over. Hood fits like crap. Needs a matching center console.

Still need to see things like the frame rails, torque boxes and under the hatch lip for rust. I’d also like to see how much rust is on the brake lines and fuel lines and other components under the car.

Mismatched combo. Prob about $200-750 for an intake depending on what you get.

Your essentially putting money into the car from day 1. So I need to be convinced to work up from $4-5k to $7k.
 
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Bodywork/paint mostly. That front drivers corner looks pushed in slightly. Would need to look closer at that area. Paint job looks like a cheap respray. I see the ford emblem painted over. Hood fits like crap. Needs a matching center console.

Still need to see things like the frame rails, torque boxes and under the hatch lip for rust. I’d also like to see how much rust is on the brake lines and fuel lines and other components under the car.

Mismatched combo. Prob about $200-750 for an intake depending on what you get.

Your essentially putting money into the car from day 1. So I need to be convinced to work up from $4-5k to $7k.
Ok thank you I’ll shoot him a low offer ig and go inspect it and see if the body is even solid if it’s not I’m not interested in doing a ton of rust repair on the body as Ik thst does usally send these cars to the scrap yard. Thank you for your insight I appreciat it
 
Most of the rust repair needs can be fixed, but if enough repairs needed it can take something someone wants 7K for down to 2 or 3K or somewhere in between. Paint looks like someone painted the hood with Tremclad or Rustolem (maybe from a rattle can) and painted the fenders to match. They forgot to put the rear fender molding back on both fenders. Driver front corner is probably the fender support bracket is missing or bent.

I would go look at it, get pics of the underside (even laying on the ground shooting under). For me, first areas are on floor pan to look are driver rear seat bolts (I have seen many cars where the pan cracks at the rear bolts), check where the pan transitions to the rear cross support (pan goes vertical to rear seat bottom), drive side toe board under the pedals. Check underside lip of hatch as Mike said, lift the carpet in hatch area and check tire well, where floor pan attaches to tail light panel. Check rear frame rails (top and bottom) from suspension mount point to rear. Check up underneath behind bumper between gas tank and rear bumper.

I agree the black console in a red interior gets me thinking cobbled together. What's hiding under the console or dash area? The rest looks okay. How is the headliner? That intake looks like someone's homemade version of some of the fabricated upper intakes out there. Those box style intakes were more for boosted and high RPM applications. Get a pic from the driver side of engine and we might be able to figure out what the lower intake is and if it truly has 24 lb injectors.

I agree with Mike that price should be 4-5K or lower if any issues in areas I mentioned. It doesn't mean its a car destined to be scrapped but it will cost more to get to a 7K valued car.

Other things that bug me about the car, the smaller width tire on those rims looks like crap - the rims I like, just not tire selection. The alternator looks like a 95A version of 3G style and the tensioner bracket looks hacked because they didn't want to fit the alternator properly with stock tensioner. The cooling fan shroud is missing, so expect cooling issues until that gets fixed. Hood hinges are half removed. There is some electrical add-ons going on on the driver side strut tower.
 
I'd have to pass on it. I hate unknowns. Unknowns = money and headaches. I run when i see mismatched parts and wires hanging out. You can find much better in that price range.
 
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Check the frame rails, the door pillars for rust (Where the doors bolt onto the car looking in through the back of the front fender), check the cowl area for rust also. These are the common hidden rust areas. Need to see the interior and exterior pictures before any of us can speculate on what is a good price. The engine compartment needs some attention in my opinion, and what is up with the hood? Why is it not on the car? No AC is a big turn off for me personally. Post as many pictures as you can. I was just in Maine last week and I know the foxbody mustangs are hard to find up there. Just as a matter of price reference, this car is for sale here in Hawaii for $8500. 5 lug, E cam, cobra intake etc.
That car would be listed for $20K in Ohio
 
Nope. Intakes can be swapped. I’d be most concerned about body condition and potential hackery.
Pin on turbo hood you can't even give away piss poor back yard respray, its been hit in the front, saw zawed engine brackets, janky wiring, too lazy to put a shroud on it and that just looking at the first Few pictures.. That car screams budget :poo:box, plan on fixing a ton of stupid issues down the road and alot on body work, I wouldn't pay more then 3 for it unless it had some really decent heads or a tremec in it.

Fixing hack work is a pita because you have no idea how much stuff they messed with, Id take a decent car with rotted floors or rails before something that's slapped together like that. Half and full pans are sub $500, rails are about the same, Neither are hard to repair just time consuming. the whole front end of that car will need hours of work just seeing how the fenders bowed out in the pics
 
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That car would be listed for $20K in Ohio
After it passed threw all the flippers I'm sure, but you can still find them at decent prices you just have to beat the guys who buy them up to part them out for profit, then try to sell the roller for More then they paid for the whole car, theres a few guys in my state who made that there job since covid lol.