1991 Turbo 306 coupe MS3/PiMPxs tuning adventure

Thanks! It's been a much longer project than I thought it would be but you guys know how that goes haha :p

So I checked the PMAS site this morning and found this "transfer function for air temp sensor":
1530104139000.png

Is that what I'm looking for or something else? I've been poking around Tunerstudio and can't seem to find any place to enter a curve aside from the MAT correction curve.
 
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Thanks! It's been a much longer project than I thought it would be but you guys know how that goes haha :p

So I checked the PMAS site this morning and found this "transfer function for air temp sensor":
1530104139000.png

Is that what I'm looking for or something else? I've been poking around Tunerstudio and can't seem to find any place to enter a curve aside from the MAT correction curve.
Its under TOOLS...Calibrate Thermistor Tables
 
Its under TOOLS...Calibrate Thermistor Tables
Ah great, found it. So it looks like I just pick 3 values from the PMAS table (first, last, and one in the middle) and enter into the measurements section there?

I also see you can specify a custom .inc file, I don't know anything about those but would that be the better way to go? Assuming that the .inc file would allow the whole table to be input?

Is it also safe to assume that I can use the bias resistor value from the Ford common value (2490 Ohms), or would I need to call PMAS to find out?

Here's the default values set by TS when selecting Ford from the common sensor values dropdown:
1530109435397.png
 
Hey guys, so I'm back from vacation and antsy to get back to work on the car. I'm hoping to get over there maybe Tuesday this week to put new colder plugs in along with calibrating the temp sensor in the newly installed MAF.

I just wanted to check with you guys real quick on plug selection. I'm looking at Autolite 3923 which should be 2 degrees colder than stock for the GT40Xs. Does that sound good? What would you recommend I gap them to?

Just trying to get my ducks in a row before I pull the dang downpipe again haha :p
 
I got some time in at the shop after work today and got the plugs swapped out. I went with Steve's recommendation and did the Autolite 103s with 32 gap.

Also replaced my spark plug wires with Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm. I thought I was all set to cut them to length but then realized I had the wrong terminals for them so the wires are installed but in the same rat's nest configuration as the old ones so they'll stay away from the headers... :/

I was all ready to get the new MAF temp sensor calibrated and do a little data logging and found that the battery had died while I was away on vacation. Good times haha, hoping to get down there again tomorrow after work to do some driving and logging though.

I kept track of the spark plugs order this time and took a couple pics. I'm wondering if there's any reason to worry about a couple of them looking sooty-er than the others? Looks like number 2 and number 8 in particular. Would love to know what you guys think. Thanks!
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Hey guys, so I got my battery charged again and finally got a nice long (comparatively haha) 20min drive in tonight with the new plugs and calibrated MAT sensor.

First the good, the cold start idled really well aside from needing just a touch of gas at the beginning and once the car was fully warmed up the idle was really steady and solid! Maybe it's my imagination, but it also seemed to not be as temperamental and bog down as much when letting the clutch out and getting it going in 1st gear.

Sadly it's still got what seems like the same hesitation when doing WOT pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear as it did before the plug swap :(

I did some nice slow pulls through the gears and it doesn't seem to happen then or is at least not noticable.

I just got back to the shop so gonna work on putting my center console back in while I let the engine cool down and then pull a plug. I'll update with a pic once I do that but wanted to go ahead and post the current tune and logs in case anyone has a chance to take a look. I hope everybody is having a great week so far, Fridaaaaaay! :D
 

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Thanks Steve! You already saw the logs so you know but yes that was after a boost run however it wasn't immediately after. I did drive back to the shop "normally" before letting it cool down and pulling the plug. Is that ok, or would I need to pull the plug immediately after the boost run in order to get an accurate read?

Compression ratio is 9.0 : 1
 
Some new logs with tune Rev 10.0.0. It's still breaking up under boost and not sure if related to tune change or not but when downshifting and then coming to a stop the car died on me 3-4 times today in my short 2 drives. I also took 2 high speed data logs to look into possible ignition sync issues recommended by @a91what . I didn't have time to stay and wait for the car to cool down to pull a plug but I will the next time I'm there.

One high speed log (in zip file since .csv isn't allowed) is with WOT pull in 2nd and I think 3rd gear and the other is a slower RPM ramp up through the first 3 gears.

It was a pretty hot day today (in the low 90s) and my coolant temps while driving around were between 215-220. This seems pretty high, do you guys think it's something to worry about? I have the stock 195 deg thermostat in there currently. Think it might be a good idea to swap for a 180 deg one to try and keep things cooler? I'm running the Ford CLT sensor (auto part store brand) so calibration should already be good with the PNP right?

Other than that, super stoked to be helping @a91what tomorrow with his engine install shenanigans! :D Hope you guys are having a great weekend so far!
 

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  • wiseguyk rev 10.0.0_ColdStart.msl
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  • wiseguyk rev 10.0.0_FirstDrive.zip
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  • wiseguyk rev 10.0.0_SecondDrive.msl
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  • HighSpeedLogs.zip
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Got a chance to work on the car yesterday and did a few things:

1. Swapped out the MSD distributor for one that @a91what Steve so graciously let me borrow. I forgot that he also gave me a TFI module to try (it was in my trunk :oops:) so I used the module from my old stock distributor. I also used the cap and rotor from the MSD, let me know if you think I should be pick up non-MSD ones or if that shouldn't matter.
2. Cut my plug wires to length to alleviate the rat's nest that was previously there.
3. Trimmed and mounted the Ranger front air dam that @stanglx2002 Kurtis hooked me up with from Amazon.
4. Reset base timing and took datalogs of cold start and 2 drives, the first with me driving, and the 2nd with my buddy Kirk driving while I watched the laptop.

At first it appeared that the stock distributor helped with the WOT hesitation around 4000 rpms, and looking at the datalogs a few of those pulls look pretty smooth and linear. Especially with Kirk driving and me just listening and watching though, I think I noticed some hesitation still. I'm wondering if it has to do with engine load being higher and that's when the problem occurs... :chin

I did not change the tune at all from the latest 10.0.0 version as to not introduce any new variables but have attached it anyway along with the cold start log, and logs from the 2 drives.

The new air dam seemed to keep the temps lower by the way, but on the 2nd drive it seemed to help less than the first one so I'm glad I've ordered the Mark VIII fan and it should be here Wednesday so hopefully with that and the new air dam my temps will be much better :)

Last thing are plug pictures pulled right after finishing the 2nd drive. I had Kirk do one last 2nd gear WOT pull right before we parked to hopefully have the plug be as "readable" as possible. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I've read it's best to look at them immediately after doing a pull/run otherwise they might get "cleaned off" and not be useful for diagnosing WOT issues.

Thanks as always and I hope everybody had a great weekend!
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Rat's nest vanquished :D
mvdq74Gpow9tr7VQy76QvCmWCfOVWQt_DGNJEnwkXGMHo-iKALJJTLsuU4ZRk0sa5haFcXLT8W1OIMs922c8_N5WddTivjlIw9SEUAAn_PqwMJpbSEyVAmUKVduq1Fwh0ReHNhiqaVZ2KY_XhSkK96DGWmgJtp_v4bH2IxWkXo2fvmySGRFonMZpuUArFmgClhP_4Gf2HdY5sXQ_v41mFDfqlJl2l77HfqKCZn09xdmXvLGan4oe70TyHAm6UO7S8Rb8xq4b52tTQZTGGVbY0hBUB1Nfb3rb9fPYUsjGsHWRks5s3qxOphttQE1--ipEV0KYjdmJcQ0Tn6D1UXfuy3pJHOKZIRpbIpACe95nvyK7Ef_tnJaSXkKAS8B_v8w9eW9G_j02uTjxcXDBgkdn49OBBIJ7hesTTe9pRxdJnW4WEqG4oQVSb919UiVepg-fBLFmyqR_KnYs4Rg1AMYZB1gtLMfpnMbxaT4GAvKAKyihuhuZDlTGlMhzhcX5CMz5rCG7Dl2l55jHS1A_gGAKJ5h7Ubh6Bb2DMu1MQ0XzYEUVnbnm7HGi0Ri3iSEGiE7GtBAYdZTiescK2NPeR2sdjiNezTeg5ujTseVi3jNz=w782-h586-no


Crappy pic of new air dam from inside the shop
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  • NewDistributorLogs.zip
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Hey guys, back with another update after a nice long day at the shop. @stanglx2002 and I chatted at length yesterday about my 4k rpm stumbling and how it appeared to be a bit better after swapping the distributor but still not quite right. He took a look at my latest log and suggested changing the Accel Enrichment TPSDot % from 50% to 25% after seeing the AFR look lean when punching it to WOT.

He requested I do a couple 2k to 5500 rpm WOT pulls so I did that first thing this morning. It seemed to run great and I didn't notice the hesitation/stumbling around 4k like before. I've attached the log from today and the current tune file for you guys to see. It definitely seems to add more fuel now when punching it, and it drops down to the low 10's immediately after going WOT.

1532827553466.png


Let me know what you guys think of the latest log if you get a chance to take a look.

I know I really need to drive it more to get things dialed in better and to really tell if the issue is resolved but I needed to get to work on my Mark VIII fan install so I only got one drive in.

I made some good progress on the fan install, I got the shroud trimmed down and figured out a way to scoot the radiator forward a little bit which gives me JUST enough room to clear the turbo to intercooler cold pipe. Got almost all of the wiring done as well and should only have to finish up the power and ground going to the fan :D

Some pics for those curious:

After ~3/4" shroud trim:
_6jrUk4kQOLIJJC9oaAD0jqQR8ISNtaqcGLiwtPJa7HKeGwjwbtLB85XEJC0eMvG37PAEoc8Fo3vs0mMkK=w1331-h999-no.jpg

Relay and maxi fuse wiring:
rV59QYxDvnM19lsmgrRQffYX539GIVJNC-IZM0OSVjU2CPnML0g3k-TxOfwbQfHeGlqpWwRnCsl32HHbTd=w1331-h999-no.jpg

Tight fit but does in fact fit :O_o:
kcsbmmPKeczUrx_eUumId0oYRR-y7iL4-jaYlkzyFp4ztlYLS6DFdMeMXb83Coc3mL1lF4VU2EBki3CQV6=w1331-h999-no.jpg

Like a glove lol
xFxgUNJGuWsVgcmDJYH3qOUM8c4QmCM5KFGM-EHB4HE-I_o8OXjtB1xU0ceqjeMLPnBVLyd4tAcyDJcRU1o=w749-h998-no.jpg
 

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I am glad that I was able to help with your issue and confirm my thoughts of it not being a possible spark issue. The logs didn't show an issue from a lower rpm past your 4k rpm stumble. Thank you for making that pull from 2k to 5500 rpm.

You may need to lower your 1st AE point from 1 to maybe .5 if you don't like the amount of AE you are giving.
 
I am glad that I was able to help with your issue and confirm my thoughts of it not being a possible spark issue. The logs didn't show an issue from a lower rpm past your 4k rpm stumble. Thank you for making that pull from 2k to 5500 rpm.

You may need to lower your 1st AE point from 1 to maybe .5 if you don't like the amount of AE you are giving.
Thanks Kurtis! I really appreciate you taking the time to explain your thought process and showing me in the logs what made you think it was AE related.

I'll definitely be testing it some more once I finish up the fan install. I got some metal today to make whatever bracketry I need to get the fan mounted so hopefully I can get over there on Wed to finish it up along with swapping in the 180* thermostat.

I still need to read in depth on how exactly AE works and its different settings. When you say I might want to lower my first AE point, would that reduce the amount of fuel it adds and would then bring my AFR up a little from the low 10s drop I saw on the last drive?

Is dumping more or less fuel via AE something that would change how quickly the engine responds to punching WOT? Just curious about the best way to tune this. Is it just a matter of playing with this setting more and seeing how the car responds to it?
 
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