Mods: (Will Edit List As Things Added/Completed) Last Update 30 January 2020
The old Engine (95 3.8l Single Port) is for sale, it is functional, has manifolds for the 2002 engine p.m. me if you want to talk
Engine: Began as Bone Stock 3.8 Single Port @ 145 HP (Book Math For Current State 241 HP on High End)
Transmission:
Exhaust:
Rear End:
Suspension:
Interior:
Exterior:
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Index of Thread:
For those of you who do not know me. I have been a member under this same name for quite some time but have been gone for over 10 years. I used to post in the 2.3l forums until I totaled my Fox and well life found a way to get derailed for some time. SO, just a little tip from a guy who has had his up's and down's. Dont sweat the set backs in life too much. Stand up, dust yourself off, and get back to doing the right thing and living a good life. Because after my setback and divorce I did this.
I replaced the Fox with a SN95 Vert V6 (Louise)
I have had the vert since probably 2004 (pre-divorce) and it had these gawd awful Merry-go-round wheels on it at the time but other than that she was bone stock with a Tan top. Had to put a new rack and pinion on and new heads because they were warped when I got her.
Her? Yes. As far ask I can prove, she has tried to kill me three times, she fights me at every turn and mod, and strives to piss me off. So Naturally I named her after my ex-wife #1 LOL.
The old Engine (95 3.8l Single Port) is for sale, it is functional, has manifolds for the 2002 engine p.m. me if you want to talk
Engine: Began as Bone Stock 3.8 Single Port @ 145 HP (Book Math For Current State 241 HP on High End)
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| 1995 Body & Computer | Convertible | 145 HP Stock | ||
| 2002 3.8L 1L3E | Split Port | 22lb Injectors | $165.00 | 193 HP Stock |
| 1997 F150 4.2L Fuel Rail | Return Style | $20.00 | ||
| Engine Mount | Drivers | DOA 2998 | $30.00 | |
| Engine Mount | Passenger | DOA 2997 | $30.00 | |
| BBK Cold Air Intake | Blackout | AM-102520 | $209.99 | +20 = 213 HP |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| Tremec T-5 | 5 Speed | Stock | ||
| Steeda Tri-Ax | Short Throw | AM-16013 | $189.95 | |
| Duralast Clutch Kit | 10 Spline | NU31402 | $100.00 | |
| Adjustable Clutch Kit | Firewall Adjuster, Cable, Double Hook Quadrant | ST-7553A | 194.95 | |
| Pivot Stud | Ford | AM-387099 | $21.99 | |
| Clutch Fork | Ford | AM-102522 | 95.49 | |
| Speedo Adjustor | 3.27:1 21 tooth Red | LRA-17271C-K | 18.50 |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| JBA Headers | Titanium | JBA-1619SJT | $350.00 | +15 = 228 HP |
| Stage 8 Bolts | Locking styled Header Bolts | STG6919 | $54.22 | |
| American Thunder Cat Back | Flowmaster | Flo-17112 | $422.97 | Too Loud for a Vert |
| Custom X-Pipe | 2.5 Inch With 4 Cats | 210194251 | $305.99 | +13 = 241 HP |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| 8.8 Rear Axle | 3.27:1 W Positrac | 8.8 from GT | $120.00 | |
| 8.8 Girdle | Ford Racing | 50240 | $184.99 | |
| Aluminum Drive Shaft | 28 Spline Ford Racing | M4602G | $328.99 |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| Struts | Monroe Sensa-Trac | 71962 | $136.76 | |
| Shocks | Monroe Sensa-Trac | 5968 | $56.56 | |
| Control Arm Kit | SVE Upper and Lower Tubular Kit | SVE-5649AT | $95.00 | |
| Quad Shock | KYB | KYB-KG4521 | $89.98 | |
| Torque Box Kit | BMR 7 Piece Kit | BMR-TBR004R | $259.57 |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| LED Dash Lights | Diode Dynamics 194 LED | DIO-9498194W-K | $24.99 | |
| Manual Trac | Swapped to manual on Drivers | $12.00 | ||
| 2002 Center Console | 2 Cupholder | $15.00 |
Part | Description | Part Number | Cost | Misc |
| Tail Light Housing | 96-98 | Swapped |
Index of Thread:
- Introduction/Pictures/Exhaust Show Off
- Engine Before Swap Begins
- Engine and Transmission OUT
- Transmission Parts and Assembly
- Stage 2 Clutch Kit- (Included because It was part of the Experience. Burnt up in 62 miles)
- Adjustable Clutch Kit(Wrong Parts)
- Correct Fuel Rail / 02 Bolted In Bay
- BBK Cold Air Intake
- Camshaft Synchronizer (Yes the 95 Works in the 02)
- Where It Went TITS UP!!!
- Clutch Cable IS WRONG (Replaced Stage 2 Spec Clutch kit with the Plain Jane Duralast Kit.......
) - In-Line Thermostat Sensor for Dash Gauge
- BMR Torque Box Kit (Starting Soon)
For those of you who do not know me. I have been a member under this same name for quite some time but have been gone for over 10 years. I used to post in the 2.3l forums until I totaled my Fox and well life found a way to get derailed for some time. SO, just a little tip from a guy who has had his up's and down's. Dont sweat the set backs in life too much. Stand up, dust yourself off, and get back to doing the right thing and living a good life. Because after my setback and divorce I did this.
I replaced the Fox with a SN95 Vert V6 (Louise)
I have had the vert since probably 2004 (pre-divorce) and it had these gawd awful Merry-go-round wheels on it at the time but other than that she was bone stock with a Tan top. Had to put a new rack and pinion on and new heads because they were warped when I got her.
Her? Yes. As far ask I can prove, she has tried to kill me three times, she fights me at every turn and mod, and strives to piss me off. So Naturally I named her after my ex-wife #1 LOL.
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So where am I going with this?
I have been looking at super six lately and thinking of pulling rebuilding the engine using some of their stuff or a whole kit then doing the split port swap.
OR
Dropping in a 04 crate and starting all over with the split port swap.
As it sits, I can comfortably handle 400 to the rear end without issue.
I still have not decided on the exterior look yet but have been toying with the Cervinis Stalker2 kit and a Hard top from Smoothline
I have been looking at super six lately and thinking of pulling rebuilding the engine using some of their stuff or a whole kit then doing the split port swap.
OR
Dropping in a 04 crate and starting all over with the split port swap.
As it sits, I can comfortably handle 400 to the rear end without issue.
I still have not decided on the exterior look yet but have been toying with the Cervinis Stalker2 kit and a Hard top from Smoothline
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For any of you who are thinking of doing a single port to split port 3.8 or 4.2 swap.
This is the most extensive Write-Up that I have come across so far: He has also went back and edited things where he solved the issues he was having. This build was initially made for a Le Mans endurance race
https://forums.tccoa.com/9-engine-3-8l-4-2l/141039-s4gunns-3-8l-single-port-splitport-diy.html
This is the most extensive Write-Up that I have come across so far: He has also went back and edited things where he solved the issues he was having. This build was initially made for a Le Mans endurance race
https://forums.tccoa.com/9-engine-3-8l-4-2l/141039-s4gunns-3-8l-single-port-splitport-diy.html
As we all know,no project in these things goes without at least one trip to the parts store. In my case, it was pull-a-part for my son. We were looking for a part for his car and I walked up on a 2002 that just arrived with a rear end collision...... Now I have that engine sitting in the garage with the complete engine wire harness. Tested it out with a 1/2 inch ratchet to make sure the crank would turn and it did. The oil came out clean and the coolant did also. YES, they are supposed to do this prior to the car hitting the lot but they didn't. I was ok with that in this case. The car was an automatic So I dumped all the junk I didn't need in a neat pile for the next person to look through.
After Football...... Its Playoffs afterall....
New Plan: Get this engine in and chase the demons prior to working the power adders and such. To get this one in wont really be much from what I have looked.
1: Have to remove the Fuel Injector wires from the 2002 harness and put them into the 1995 harness
2: Have to replace the Fuel Rail with the one I pulled from an F150
3: New Water Pump
4: New T stat
5: New Coil pack, Plugs, Wires
6: New Rear Main Seal
7: New CAI
8: New Applicable Hoses
While its out:
1: New Motor Mounts
2: New Trans Mount
Trans? (Why Not)
1: 2002 Flywheel
2: 2002 Stage 2 Clutch
3: Adjustable Cable
5: Clutch Fork
6: Pivot Stud
Post More as we flow forward
After Football...... Its Playoffs afterall....
New Plan: Get this engine in and chase the demons prior to working the power adders and such. To get this one in wont really be much from what I have looked.
1: Have to remove the Fuel Injector wires from the 2002 harness and put them into the 1995 harness
2: Have to replace the Fuel Rail with the one I pulled from an F150
3: New Water Pump
4: New T stat
5: New Coil pack, Plugs, Wires
6: New Rear Main Seal
7: New CAI
8: New Applicable Hoses
While its out:
1: New Motor Mounts
2: New Trans Mount
Trans? (Why Not)
1: 2002 Flywheel
2: 2002 Stage 2 Clutch
3: Adjustable Cable
5: Clutch Fork
6: Pivot Stud
Post More as we flow forward
January 17, 2020
FUGGIN Transmission Crossmember is giving me fits. Have been soaking it for 2 days now. After work tomorrow I will either get the bolts out with the impace ot use a torch....... Other than that, I believe that I am ready to pull the engine and trans
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January 18, 2020
Well its after Dark for me tonight. Got everything disconnected and using load ratchet straps to get the engine and trans out.
I do consider myself a smart man. I do research a lot and I try to be ready for what I am doing. BUT, When we pulled the engine out, well, I didn't account for the transmission fluid. So, off to the Dollar General for Kitty Litter......... And later on I will be asking how I am going to refill the T-5 before I put it back into the car.
Isn't this a Beautiful Sight? (BTW, most Dollar Generals around here will let you take the pallets for free, and boy do we use them) We strapped it down overnight so it wont fall and damage my floor.No My Garage isn't spotless. I am just an average Joe who has too many projects going on at the same time.
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January 19, 2020
Had to get some work in before the Playoff Games. SO, I took the Transmission off the engine and............ the engine did a nose dive forward. Would have toppled over if I didn't have the for sight to strap that sucker down. Still, the execution could have been better, now its more secure as I begin the tear down.
I pre-ordered a shift fork and pivot stud........... When I looked at the shift fork on the trans though, I forgot that I didn't order a throw-out bearing. Off to AZ I went, GOSH love that I manage a shop and the owner lets me use his account to get the commercial discount on things. I believe 90% of my build is at 1/2 cost because of him letting me use the business accounts as long as I pay the bill up front with them. Its a Plus.. Replaced the worn out Transmission mount also.
I will have to rethink how to stabilize the engine while working on it. For anyone who is going to say. "Get an engine stand" I do have one, it is what the other engine that will be going into the car is currently on. I am taking the parts that I need off this one (the 95) and putting them on the new one (the 02)
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January 22, 2020
DONT DO THIS!!!!!!! This is what happens when you are a ME and take a transmission off an engine that is not well secured. I am so glad this thing did not face plant on my concrete and cause me to become a floor mechanic. Can you believe that the blue flimsy p.o.s. bucket there actually saved the engine from falling? It did not stop if from splitting down the side and sending coolant all over the floor. More Kitty Litter!!!!!!
Transmission Dolly Anyone???? Who needs to have a special dolly when one from your local Lowes is good enough. Remove the handle and center a jack under the dolly. BOOM Peckerwood Ingenuity. I will have to clean this up a little before install but all in all nothing except for a refill of fresh fluids will be needed.
Side By Side Rear. I have not opened my parts boxes yet but I am sure what I will have to remove all of the parts off the old to use the bolts for the new. It is my luck that none of the bolts will be provided with my new parts. I will of course post an update on that when I get to that point. On the bright side. With the engine and trans out of the car. The new adjustable clutch cable and quadrant will be a lot easier to install.
Side By Side Front. For those of you who want to come in here and say that it is customary to clean and paint and blah blah blah when you are swapping engines. I have one thing to say about that. "If you want Pretty, do as I do and turn the lights off before getting into bed."
SO, Today I made more progress.
Installed:
New Rear Main Seal.
New Motor Mounts
Valve Cover Gaskets
New Coolant temperature sensor and broke it off, had to use a speed out to get it back out. Will get a replacement tomorrow
Swapped:
JBA titanium headers
Bracket for A/C Compressor
Cleaned some grime up that built up over the years, after I have it running I will take it to the car wash and pressure wash the entire engine.
Moved the old engine and new engine so I can do a side by side comparison and make sure I don't miss anything to swap. That and when I am getting to the wire harness, I want to take it SLOW and do it right the first time.
When I was installing the rear main seal, I was looking at the oil pan and was leaning toward replacing the two seals on it and applying a good bead of Ultra Black RTV (Its all I use) but I took out the bolts and that damn thing wouldn't budge. So I am rolling the dice on this one and seeing if It leaks once it is back in the car. If it does I will just do it at the shop.
ON a Side Note. I found 15 tools that I misplaced when I moved the engines and put all the tools on one bench.
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Today, well we tackle the Maximum Motorsports Stage II Clutch, WHY??? Because I can, so I DID. FYI, I am not installing the Adjustable Clutch Cable and Quadrant today. I am getting the engine and trans ready to go in prior to that. But here is a Pic of the new gear.
(I have an employee who is a half ass mechanic. He knows what he is doing but he wont plan anything out. He will Mod on the fly rather than do things the right way with a proper and sound foundation. If he would just take his time and build something with quality parts he would have a great car. He is also one that will trade a vehicle off in 6 months and be back to square one with another something. Then bitches about it. Oh and he is that guy also who actually believes he is the only one who can do something correct and will belittle anything someone else does to their vehicle. Lately he is telling me that all I am doing to this car is going to make it slower. I shake my head and tell him that I only buy "Go Slow Parts" for this car and it will last forever, then I roll my eyes. /mini rant)
LMR Video (How To Remove and INstall Clutch)
Here are some side by side pictures of the old and new. Nothing actually wrong with the old parts. Shifted fine, just decided that what the hell, its out of the car anyways.
(I have an employee who is a half ass mechanic. He knows what he is doing but he wont plan anything out. He will Mod on the fly rather than do things the right way with a proper and sound foundation. If he would just take his time and build something with quality parts he would have a great car. He is also one that will trade a vehicle off in 6 months and be back to square one with another something. Then bitches about it. Oh and he is that guy also who actually believes he is the only one who can do something correct and will belittle anything someone else does to their vehicle. Lately he is telling me that all I am doing to this car is going to make it slower. I shake my head and tell him that I only buy "Go Slow Parts" for this car and it will last forever, then I roll my eyes. /mini rant)
LMR Video (How To Remove and INstall Clutch)
Here are some side by side pictures of the old and new. Nothing actually wrong with the old parts. Shifted fine, just decided that what the hell, its out of the car anyways.
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January 25, 2020
For anyone who is following this progress thread and believes that they can't do the same as I am, please take some time and watch some LMR videos. What I have been doing is planning out the day and getting a starting and finishing point. Then I will pull up some videos on LMR and review what they have done because they will give you some of the things that you should be looking up like a torque spec and a tip here and there for a troublesome item. Don't be shy, use all resources that is at your disposal. Plus, we cant remember everything we have done in the past. I have a lot in my head and usually trying to remember boobs and who they belong to will overwrite something I should do in a specific order on the car.
New looks Pretty
Never Understood why they paint it, nobody is going to see the damn thing. If I was them, I'd make it pink with white polka dots
Back together and YUP cant see the damn pressure plate. Waste of paint.
BACK to Peckerwood Ingenuity..... That dolly from Lowes works just as well for the whole engine to be carted around while the other one needed to be put on the engine stand for some love after this one is in the car.
Done for the night: I believe that I am down to dicking with the wire harness next. I am using the 95 harness so I know that I am going to be swapping some of the ends. I know the fuel injector ends need swapped and I am sure that some sensors will also be needed. Well that is for another day. For tonight, I have it back on the makeshift work table and strapped down in case it decides to move on me.
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One Final Picture for the night. I keep a bucket of water and a bar of Lava soap in the garage when I am working. No need to get my door knobs messy. When I am done, the first thing I do is get some of the grime off before I touch too many things that I will have to clean later. SOOOOOO, if any of you haven't added this step to the garage/build process. Might want to think of it. Keeps the Ladies happy also, because the mess is in the garage, not in the sink
January 29, 2020
Install Adjustable Clutch Cable video
This Kit will only come with one spacer in it, if you watch the video they dont use a spacer at all. If you look at the picture below. I used a saw to cut the center of the old quadrant off and used it as a second spacer. I did this because when you are installing an adjustable cable like this, you wont be reusing the old adjuster and this creates a space that the metal spacer is used to take up even though the video wont show it, on the other end there is a space that is uneven if you do not use another spacer, so I created one. I did my best to get the two spacers in the picture so you can see what I did. A little forward thinking makes things easier down the road. PLUS. I would be mulling it over and over in my head until I got back under there and put the spacers on, it would have bugged the crap out of me.
January 29, 2020
OK.......... F Ford!!!
If you install this Adjuster in the factory holes you will be not happy!
As you can see there are multiple sets of holes drilled and that is because I tried to line this up two times before I ended up just re drilling and using a grinder to create the place I needed to make the adjustments with the clearance the alan wrench will need.
As you can see, this is the first position that I mounted the adjustment base in well, there is a damn pinch weld there that prevents the wrench from being used. So I reversed the direction of the base and the wrench will turn just enough to piss you off and question why the hell you installed it in the first place.
A Peckerwood problem calls for a Peckerwood solution!!!
1. Drill your own holes.
2. Use a grinder to make the clearance
3. Dont lose the supplied self tapping screw in through the hole because it falls between the damn firewall and the fire retardant blanket. YOU WON'T GET IT BACK
Installed but not adjusted yet
January 29, 2020
Since we are always talking about this, I figured that I would show what we are talking about. My Strut towers are beautiful, Rust free, Hole Free and serviceable for years to come. I was underneath and yes they are just as pretty but not red. I was pissing and moaning at the time about getting the transmission brace back in place that I did forget to get the picture. When I do get it, I will edit this post and add them in to show others what we all preach. For those of you who are scratching your head. It is simple, these hold the front end off the ground and is why we stress so much about their care and structural continuity.
January 29, 2020
More Peckerwood solutions:
SURE I could have purchased a bran new lower boot, but who the hell will see it once it is installed? SOOOOOO, get yourself some super glue and some wide rubber bands and cut to fit. Why spend money when you can keep the cost down and make it functional and both pieces are rubber
This is my second attempt at fixing my shift boot. The first time I used a glue that obviously didn't live up to the name it is advertised under. Gorilla Glue is not Super Glue. So, since I had the transmission out of the car and Super Glue on hand, I figured that I might as well take care of this little issue also. YES, that is a red shop rag that is glued in there also to seal a rip in the leather. Hey, It worked. I will need to replace those lock washers with something else eventually, but again, don't care about looks much, its functional.
January 29, 2020
For those of you who will be looking to do this same swap into a 1994-1995 Mustang, you HAVE to find this either out of a Windstar or a F-150 so that you can use the same return style fuel system that these cars have. I got mine out of an F-150
OK, If you do this, inside the split port heads, you will find some butterfly valves. There are 3 on each side and If I would have remembered a month ago when I removed them, I would have taken a picture then. BUT I didn't and I am not taking it apart now to do so. You then have two choices. Remove the runners that they are mounted on or just remove the baffles. I removed the baffles inside and left the runners in place, this wont harm the flow of air. I also removed the hardware on the rear of the intake because it was not needed. The problem I had was, the runners move. So, I used a coat hanger to secure the two runners in place. Its functional, well in this case, keeps them non functional.
In a couple of other threads in here we have been discussing the proper lifting of an engine out of a vehicle. Many people have many ideas to do this. Here is an example of getting the job done. When you are turning the wrench and you know what you are doing and you are confident in what your skills are, you know what is secure. In this example I used a single load strap threaded using a coat hanger through the upper intake. I did this to prove a point. When I cranked it down, I ensured that the only thing that it touched was the upper intake. I then lifted the entire engine and transmission by that one strap and placed it into the engine bay. Note, this is just to prove the point that proper clearance and knowing your own work will get the job done with one strap.
Here, we have the 3.8L Split Port in the car but not complete. You can also see that there is now a red load strap in an x across the engine. Well that is because YES you can lift the engine and trans with one strap, BUT it wont get the engine positioned properly in the car. For that, you need to go back and get the engine level and get the damn mounts seated properly, HINT, that rear sway bar and a load strap works great when you use it to pull the transmission backwards while lowering it into place.
Next UP!!!!!
Re-Attach the Drive Shaft, and get the damn e-brake cables out of the way from rubbing on it.
Attach Hoses
Fill Fluids
Make New Fuel Lines
Create 1 engine harness out of a 95 and 02 harness
Chase the damn right hook ups for the harness
Prime what is needed to be primed
Turn the key....
February 05
Well, The garage has two LED lights that do a lot of good but are not exactly centered in each bay for maximum light. They are set up so that they would be positioned over the hood if you pulled into the garage instead of backing in like I do. Well this sucks for working on a car also. It is good that once the door is open, the natural light is let in and I can see a lot. When the night falls though, so does my visibility.
A Peckerwood Problem gets a Peckerwood Solution
I went to Lowes today and picked up two LED overhead lights that I will install after the build is complete enough to roll out of the bay and back in even if I have to push it both directions.
Well, Nothing is perfect. IN previous pictures you can see that I took the Ac Compressor and bungee it off the passenger side of the car without unhooking it. On the Drivers side I did the same with the Power Steering bracket. When I put the Engine back into the car and began bolting thing back on it, I found that the bracket fits BUT in 1995 the water pump pulley was smaller than the 2002 and the idler pulley was larger. When you put the P.S. Bracket from a 95 complete with the Idler pulley on an engine with a 02 water pump, the pulleys have just enough room in between them for the serpentine belt. The problem is that it wont move at all no matter how much you try. So, at work I called my parts supplier and got an idler pulley for the 02 and now the clearance is a lot better.
My Main goal for the day was to get the driveshaft back connected to the trans and then the axle once again. Well, since I really didn't see this as an issue before hand, I had the car up on ramps in the rear but jack stands in the front. It made sens that since I was removing the engine, the rear didn't need to be too high. WELL........... I will tell you that The clearance under the car was not enough to use a breaker bar to get the 12pt 12mm studs out of that drive shaft.
Another Peckerwood Problem, Another Peckerwood Solution. Everyone of us has used a floor jack to lift a Mustang before and we all know that it will shift to the side of that Jack. SO, I remembered that I had this old bottle jack that I planned on getting rid of because hell, nobody uses them anymore. Fortunately, cleaning the garage and re arranging crap is on the list after getting the Mustang running as a Daily Driver. 2 Cinder blocks, 2 car jack stands, a pile of wood and a bottle jack got her where she needed to be for me to get the leverage for the Driveshaft bolts.
Now that is checked off the list.
February 05
Cold Air Intake from BBK is going to be a fun. So in the first picture here you can see the kit that they sent me. It is missing the two pegs for the bottom of the bracket that centers the CAI through the fender well. It is also missing the grommet to hold in the sensor. SO I staged it up to see what I will be up against here and am brainstorming what to do to solve this little issue. I am thinking of taking the crank case grommet out of the old engine to see if that works with a little RTV. I also found out that the damn filter wont fit through the damn hole. I am going to have to remove fender well liner to get the filter on when I fab it all up.
February 15
I want to Thank Hoytster here once again for helping me figure out wether this thing was going to work or not. For those of you who didnt see the thread where we were discussing this. Here is a brief overview.
On the left is the Syncro out of the 2002 and on the right is the one from the 1995. I have a washer under the 95 just to get them to the same height where the syncro actually touches the block. As you can see they are almost identical. EXCEPT that the 02 has a 2 wire sensor and the 95 has a 3 wire.
We discussed the options on this and decided that the best route was to pull the one from the 95 and drop it into the 02 block. I checked out a few youtube videos on the logistics and the marking and all that B.S. IN the end, I just pulled the syncro out and bolted it right into the 02 without alignment or marking anything.
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