1995 5.0 Issues

Andre6 · Nov 24, 2021

Hi all, new here. I’ve recently just got a 95’ GT 5 speed and I’ve been having a few issues with the car once in a while. I haven’t got the time yet to start playing around with things to check first, so I’m here hoping I could get some good opinions on what to check initially. I’m not that good with cars that much yet, but I’m hoping to! I apologize in advance if I make a mistake describing some things. Thank you all in advance

1) while cruising in 5th, the RPMs would drop to idle but not stall (this doesn’t happen so often now). However, if I’m in 2nd slowly accelerating, the RPMs would drop to idle and stall (this has been happening a little more frequently, not all the time yet though).

2) there’s this slight grinding/crunching noise that sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car, near the rear. This happens when I’m decelerating or braking, and it pretty much happens a good amount of the time. I’m unsure if these could be the rear brakes since the pad and rotors have been replaced. it also makes that noise when just slowing down with no brakes applied.

3) once in a while the car struggles to turn over and start. The starter is 3 years old and the battery is pretty new. It feels like it wants to crank all the way, but just won’t get quite there. If I leave it alone for about 10-20 min it will turn over.

General karthief · Nov 25, 2021

Check for codes
Check the condition of your charging system, battery, cables and alternator.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure.

Andre6 · Nov 25, 2021

General karthief said:
Check for codes
Check the condition of your charging system, battery, cables and alternator.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure.

Will do, I appreciate it

General karthief · Nov 25, 2021

Oh, and check the air in that right rear tire. May be a little low, remember to change the air in the tires at least once a year.

KRUISR · Nov 25, 2021

General karthief said:
Oh, and check the air in that right rear tire. May be a little low, remember to change the air in the tires at least once a year.

Somebody had a little too much turkey this year, or was it bull?

General karthief · Nov 25, 2021

WhiteCobra95 · Nov 26, 2021

On the slow cranking when hot issue, it sounds like the starter is going bad. Slow or no cranking when hot is the tell-tail sign of a dying starter motor. What starter was put in? Name brand or parts store?

Chythar · Nov 26, 2021

The starting issue could be the starter, but it depends on when the issue happens. Does the car start easily when cold, but won't start after you've been driving for a while? If that's the case, you can also check the cap and rotor on the distributor for corrosion and wear. I had that happen on a 95 GT I used to own. Had the car towed, and was real embarrassed when the mechanic said it was just a corroded cap and rotor.

General karthief · Nov 26, 2021

Don't discount those weeny factory cables, they can cause slow crank when hot problems that burn up starters, I replace them along with the starter.
JMO

addermk2 · Nov 27, 2021

KRUISR said:
Somebody had a little too much turkey this year, or was it bull?

Silliness aside, tire air pressure will drop approximately 1psi for every 10° drop in ambient temp. Which is why the dealerships get bombarded by "My TPMS light is on" questions every fall/early winter.

General karthief · Nov 27, 2021

TPMS was developed for stupid/lazy motorists, they are not even motorists, don't get me started, I've stopped telling people they have a low tire because they don't believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn

KRUISR · Nov 27, 2021

General karthief said:
believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn

Maybe we need to change your avatar pic ...

Here are some suggestions...

General karthief · Nov 27, 2021

KRUISR said:
Maybe we need to change your avatar pic ...

Here are some suggestions...

Nope, mine was custom created for me by a world famous artist and janitor that insisted on anonymity and would be an insult to change it.
now go home, I'm out of whiskey and ammunition.

kilwei · Dec 25, 2021

Andre6 said:
Hi all, new here. I’ve recently just got a 95’ GT 5 speed and I’ve been having a few issues with the car once in a while. I haven’t got the time yet to start playing around with things to check first, so I’m here hoping I could get some good opinions on what to check initially. I’m not that good with cars that much yet, but I’m hoping to! I apologize in advance if I make a mistake describing some things. Thank you all in advance

1) while cruising in 5th, the RPMs would drop to idle but not stall (this doesn’t happen so often now). However, if I’m in 2nd slowly accelerating, the RPMs would drop to idle and stall (this has been happening a little more frequently, not all the time yet though).

2) there’s this slight grinding/crunching noise that sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car, near the rear. This happens when I’m decelerating or braking, and it pretty much happens a good amount of the time. I’m unsure if these could be the rear brakes since the pad and rotors have been replaced. it also makes that noise when just slowing down with no brakes applied applinked.

3) once in a while the car struggles to turn over and start. The starter is 3 years old and the battery is pretty new. It feels like it wants to crank all the way, but just won’t get quite there. If I leave it alone for about 10-20 min it will turn over.

It's nice to see another 95 owner. I might be wrong but I'm thinkingit could be you're ignition module. It will die on you when it's at normal running temp.,and then when it sits for a period of time to cooldown, then you can start it again. this happened on my 88 I had. That's my opinion, but be patient for others to run something by you and then take it to a machanic or do it you're self.

manicmechanic007 · Dec 26, 2021

You better jack it up and take a look at the rear end bearings both axle and case bearings inspect
You need to have the starter checked for amps
CheckerPepZone used to do it free
The starter should hit about 260-280 amps to pull in they call it then crank at around 180 amps
Your battery should also be checked to see what voltage it maintains while under the big load of a starter
At a 350 amp load the battery should stay above 10.2volts. If it drops to 9.6v or so you need a new battery
Your stalling problem could be just about anything
If you just got the car and have no baseline.. Start one by replacing both the stator in the distributor and the TFI module with Ford parts
Stator is bitchy need to mark and pull gear and press or beat the shaft out
Easy for me difficult for some impossible for others
Good luck

manicmechanic007 · Dec 26, 2021

I mark the distributor gear and shaft with a bastard file
That's because the roll pin hole is drilled slightly off center in the shaft
The gear and shaft need to be re indexed together correctly or you damage the roll pin (still works)(if installed wrong)
Go easy take your time find someone with a press
I beat the shafts and bushings out too with a brass hammer and a punch for years before getting a press
Sometimes the bushing will come out of the distributor that's okay just press or beat it back in
Clean the shaft up with emory cloth

manicmechanic007 · Jan 1, 2022

Andre6,
Did you get it running good now then?

Andre6 · Jan 1, 2022

manicmechanic007 said:
Andre6,
Did you get it running good now then?

WhiteCobra95 said:

On the slow cranking when hot issue, it sounds like the starter is going bad. Slow or no cranking when hot is the tell-tail sign of a dying starter motor. What starter was put in? Name brand or parts store?

Click to expand...

It actually cranks fine when the temperature is warm. Usually it’s when the weather drops to anything below 40 degrees.

General karthief said:
TPMS was developed for stupid/lazy motorists, they are not even motorists, don't get me started, I've stopped telling people they have a low tire because they don't believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn

I’m not going to lie, that was the problem I checked and the back left tire was low on air, then the noise stopped. Can’t believe I didn’t check that in the first place

Andre6 · Jan 1, 2022

manicmechanic007 said:
I mark the distributor gear and shaft with a bastard file
That's because the roll pin hole is drilled slightly off center in the shaft
The gear and shaft need to be re indexed together correctly or you damage the roll pin (still works)(if installed wrong)
Go easy take your time find someone with a press
I beat the shafts and bushings out too with a brass hammer and a punch for years before getting a press
Sometimes the bushing will come out of the distributor that's okay just press or beat it back in
Clean the shaft up with emory cloth

I haven’t done that yet specifically, but checking it real quick I’ve noticed that the cap and rotor was getting slightly wet inside. Also the TFI coil (I think that’s what it is) is slightly corroded as well. Will definitely try that if I could figure out how it’s getting wet inside in the first place

Andre6 · Jan 1, 2022

General karthief said:
Oh, and check the air in that right rear tire. May be a little low, remember to change the air in the tires at least once a year.

I was definitely low on air can’t believe I didn’t check

General karthief said:
Oh, and check the air in that right rear tire. May be a little low, remember to change the air in the tires at least once a year.

1995 5.0 Issues

Andre6

Member

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Andre6

Member

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

KRUISR

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

WhiteCobra95

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

addermk2

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

KRUISR

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

kilwei

New Member

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

Andre6

Member

Andre6

Member

Andre6

Member

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