1995 Cobra in need of tuning help

djjazzydave

New Member
May 8, 2006
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Well, I didn't want to be "that guy" but...I need some help tuning my pride-n-joy. I have a 1995 Cobra that has been heavily modified without proper engine tuning and (of course) she's not running 100%; doesn't idle well, is sluggish to respond, and not as powerful as a 331 cid should be. I recently purchased/installed a Tweecer RT module and have ordered a dual FAST wideband kit that will be installed soon. I am relatively new the wide-world of EFI tuning and would appreciate some advice/guidance from the EFI guys out there - specifically tuning for idle (for now).

To get the engine mods out of the way and let you know what we're dealing with, they are as follows:

• Forged Eagle 331 cid bottom-end (actual displacement = 331.64 in^2)
• Trick Flow cam (51402000) with stock 1.7 Cobra rocker arms – intake/exhaust duration (at 0.050”) = 221/225, intake/exhaust lift = 0.530”/0.541”
• Heavily ported/polished stock Cobra GT-40 heads with recent valve job
• Ceramic coated BBK Equal Length Shorty Headers
• Off-road H-pipe
• BBK fender well-feed cold air intake
• BBK fuel pressure regular/gauge set to ~39 psi without vacuum
• 190 lph Holly fuel pump
• MSD Pro-Billet distributor
• MSD Blaster TFI coil
• Stock Cobra upper/lower intake manifold
• Stock Cobra 24lb Ford fuel injectors
• Stock Cobra mass-air meter (24lb calibration)
• Newly replaced IAC, TPS, and coolant temperature sensor
• Stock 95 Cobra computer calibration: J4J1
• fresh engine: <3,000 miles


So far the modifications I made to the scalars in Tweecer are:

• adjust engine displacement to 331.65 in^2
• increased idle RPM in neutral to 800 RPM
• increased idle RPM in gear to 800 RPM
• increased minimum tip-in retard to 15° (for diveability)


After making these changes and uploading them to the Tweecer module the car seemed to run a "little better" but the idle still stinks; it was just as bad before the Tweecer. When at idle usually one of two things happens:

1. after the initial high rpm at startup the idle settles down to ~900-1,000 RPM (slightly above what is called for) for about 10 seconds then belches out about 3 good idle surges and dies (unless you give it gas during the surges - which is what I have to do at redlights to keep the car running...not good for keeping a low redlight profile)

2. or, more even more strange - the car will go into some bizarre mode where the spark advance is absolutely pegged at 30° (observed using Tweecer RT) and the car idles at ~2,000 RPM. It will stay in this high RPM/spark advance until the car is turned off.

I guess my first question is - how does one properly tune for idle in my situation (increased displacement, hairy cam, ported/polished heads...)? I've looked all over the web (surely missing a good reference) but there appears to be no: step 1...xyz, step 2...xyz, after that xyz... for idle tuning.

Any and all guidance/suggestions are welcome - please pour it on!

Thanks,
David
 
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Well, I didn't want to be "that guy" but...I need some help tuning my pride-n-joy. I have a 1995 Cobra that has been heavily modified without proper engine tuning and (of course) she's not running 100%; doesn't idle well, is sluggish to respond, and not as powerful as a 331 cid should be. I recently purchased/installed a Tweecer RT module and have ordered a dual FAST wideband kit that will be installed soon. I am relatively new the wide-world of EFI tuning and would appreciate some advice/guidance from the EFI guys out there - specifically tuning for idle (for now).

To get the engine mods out of the way and let you know what we're dealing with, they are as follows:

• Forged Eagle 331 cid bottom-end (actual displacement = 331.64 in^2)
• Trick Flow cam (51402000) with stock 1.7 Cobra rocker arms – intake/exhaust duration (at 0.050”) = 221/225, intake/exhaust lift = 0.530”/0.541”
• Heavily ported/polished stock Cobra GT-40 heads with recent valve job
• Ceramic coated BBK Equal Length Shorty Headers
• Off-road H-pipe
• BBK fender well-feed cold air intake
• BBK fuel pressure regular/gauge set to ~39 psi without vacuum
• 190 lph Holly fuel pump
• MSD Pro-Billet distributor
• MSD Blaster TFI coil
• Stock Cobra upper/lower intake manifold
• Stock Cobra 24lb Ford fuel injectors
• Stock Cobra mass-air meter (24lb calibration)
• Newly replaced IAC, TPS, and coolant temperature sensor
• Stock 95 Cobra computer calibration: J4J1
• fresh engine: <3,000 miles


So far the modifications I made to the scalars in Tweecer are:

• adjust engine displacement to 331.65 in^2
• increased idle RPM in neutral to 800 RPM
• increased idle RPM in gear to 800 RPM
• increased minimum tip-in retard to 15° (for diveability)


After making these changes and uploading them to the Tweecer module the car seemed to run a "little better" but the idle still stinks; it was just as bad before the Tweecer. When at idle usually one of two things happens:

1. after the initial high rpm at startup the idle settles down to ~900-1,000 RPM (slightly above what is called for) for about 10 seconds then belches out about 3 good idle surges and dies (unless you give it gas during the surges - which is what I have to do at redlights to keep the car running...not good for keeping a low redlight profile)

2. or, more even more strange - the car will go into some bizarre mode where the spark advance is absolutely pegged at 30° (observed using Tweecer RT) and the car idles at ~2,000 RPM. It will stay in this high RPM/spark advance until the car is turned off.

I guess my first question is - how does one properly tune for idle in my situation (increased displacement, hairy cam, ported/polished heads...)? I've looked all over the web (surely missing a good reference) but there appears to be no: step 1...xyz, step 2...xyz, after that xyz... for idle tuning.

Any and all guidance/suggestions are welcome - please pour it on!

Thanks,
David


Does it smell rich at idle ? shoot me an email at [email protected] , get the wideband on it ASAP and find out what the idle air/fuel is
 
Hello David :D

Honestly ... talk about tuning has REALLY slowed down here :(

If you go back two to three years ago :eek:

Tons of VERY SPECIFIC info was thrown all about :nice:

Wes (Stanger007) has some good stuff you can look at

I got some very basic stuff on my little site (see sig)

Now ... As for some idle issues relief :rlaugh:

Get yourself some baseline dlogs ;)

Look at these areas

Injector Timing

Thorttle Body Airflow

ISC Neutral Idle Airflow

First few maf transfer points

Lots of good info in EEC Analyzer on how to adjust in these areas

Hope that gives you an idea or place to get started :D

You may find that OEM meter and inj's turn out to be too small :shrug:

Grady