Hello everyone the parts came so I got to work pulled the timing cover and the belt appeared to have been replaced and was all in time so I didn't change it since the crank bolt was seized I did change the sensor tho and it didn't change anything I haven't put the timing cover and pulleys back on tho I don't see how not running the serpentine system would keep it from starting with a good battery. Anyone have any ideas? Maybe it's the ecu my coworkers has one from a ranger i don't know when he will remember to bring it into work though. I didn't replace the egr or anything else yet. He was saying if the capacitors in the ecu corroded it could cause a bunch of strange problems including no start
2.3l mustang hard starts and bogs and stalls when you floor it from idle
- Thread starter declan
- Start date
Good evening I know I'm rambling on but I want to be detailed to help yall diagnose and anyone in the future who reads this is had a thought and there's a diagnostic port near the drivers side fire wall by the obd 1 called a spout connector if I remember correctly basically should disable the computer controlled timing for setting base time with a light I'm going to try unplugging it tomorrow after work see if it makes any changes if it does I suspect me ecu is throwing off my ignition timing
Update: IT RUNS not great but it runs I'm not sure what changed i hooked up the front pulled system and unplugged the spout connector and it ran but will also run with spout plugged in smells rich though and is is hard to start helps to have wot throttle when starting but will restart if fairly normal if you do it right after you cut it off it also backfires a lot more than I remember ( I do have no exhaust past the cats) and dies whenever I floorboard it from low rpm like idle doesn't missfire and/or stutter when accelerating though it does feels low on power still
Update to the issues when it starts it takes a few seconds to catch and start running it will normally sputter once then cycle again and start, when you floor it in park it will bog for a second then rev up when floored drive it will stall most of the time but only if flooring from low rpm fuel pressure is around 35 psi at idle other than that it runs fairly well pulled the codes and have a Code 332, I also have 157 and 158 but believe those are from having the maf unplugged accidentally on the first test drive either way we are making good progress
I have a 1993 mustang vert 2.3l lx auto it had a missfire then no start changed the crank sensor seems to have fixed that now i have a hard start and it bogs a little in park if you floor it from idle and stalls if you floor it from idle in drive it has new plugs and wires, icm, coils, timing belt, and crank sensor. The maf seems to work but the engine runs very rough with it unplugged which is strange and the fuel pressure is at 35psi at idle and 30 psi at key on the hard start is like a stutter at first when cranking then it fires up
You really need to keep all this in your other thread so people know what you have done to date.
You can change the title of the thread anytime you want and we encourage this so all the info stays in one spot so members can help you as your project progresses.
There are three dots at the top of the thread. Click on the and select “edit thread”. From here you can change the title which will help as your project evolves.
You can change the title of the thread anytime you want and we encourage this so all the info stays in one spot so members can help you as your project progresses.
There are three dots at the top of the thread. Click on the and select “edit thread”. From here you can change the title which will help as your project evolves.
Sorry I'm assuming your replying to the separate threads that's my bad new to the whole forum thing in my head I was like well new problem new thread but I understand now and it won't happen again that you for fixing it for me once again my apologies
Also I have yet to do a compression test but I really don't feel like that's the issue it runs really good except when you floor the gas from low rpm or initially start it the low power seems to have cleared up just from running it but it's hard to say these engines didn't make that much power anyways
I ordered one off rock auto it will be here Tuesday if that doesn't make any improvements then I'm not sure how much more time and money I'm willing to spend on this car
Removed the old ecu and opened it up im no profession but I know a little of what I'm doing and all the capacitors visually look okay doesn't mean they are good but they aren't corroded atleast there is one spot of concern which is the last picture unsure if that is corrosion or a factory coating though
Similar threads
