Hello I have a 1993 2.3l auto mustang lx vert and it has been nothing but problems it started with an odd missfire sputters when accelerating but would rev fine in park or neutral changed the icm, coil, plugs and wires and didn't change a thing then it started stalling randomly and sometimes not restarting untill waiting a few minutes the other night it stalled wouldn't start unless the pedal was to the floor then I just raced home as fast as I could and cut it off went out today and it won't start at all will crank and sputter and try to fire but won't turn over I checked fuel pressure and it was at 35ish psi pulled codes got 14 and 16 koeo codes I'm running out of ideas and don't want to throw parts at it I have a new maf sensor, egr, and pcv on the way as they were in sale at the parts store any recommendation would be great mileage is unknown but probably high
2.3l mustang hard starts and bogs and stalls when you floor it from idle
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So a Code 14 is a bad PIP if you have a distributor. My 93 was a 4 cylinder and it was distributorless so my guess is a Code 14 will have something to do with a crank trigger issue. It could also be as simple as a stretched timing belt.
Code 16 is a funky one and best explained by jrichker here in Post #3:
This resistor was just discussed here and started at Post #84:
Hail Mary here but these ECU's are getting to be 30+ years old and we see all kinds of weird problems out of them due to irratic power supplies and capacitors failing. Typically they get sent here for a rebuild:
www.theecuexchange.com
Code 16 is a funky one and best explained by jrichker here in Post #3:
This resistor was just discussed here and started at Post #84:
Hail Mary here but these ECU's are getting to be 30+ years old and we see all kinds of weird problems out of them due to irratic power supplies and capacitors failing. Typically they get sent here for a rebuild:
Home - ECU Exchange
ECU Exchange specializes in the re-manufacturing and repair of engine control modules.
www.theecuexchange.com
It is distributorless and has a new icm which is why the code confused me is there an easy way to check for stretched timing without a timing lightSo a Code 14 is a bad PIP if you have a distributor. My 93 was a 4 cylinder and it was distributorless so my guess is a Code 14 will have something to do with a crank trigger issue. It could also be as simple as a stretched timing belt.
Code 16 is a funky one and best explained by jrichker here in Post #3:
This resistor was just discussed here and started at Post #84:
Hail Mary here but these ECU's are getting to be 30+ years old and we see all kinds of weird problems out of them due to irratic power supplies and capacitors failing. Typically they get sent here for a rebuild:
Home - ECU Exchange
ECU Exchange specializes in the re-manufacturing and repair of engine control modules.
Compression test may show that.
Or you could pull the plugs, turn the engine by hand till the timing pointer is on TDC and check where the #1 piston is, it should be at the top of the compression stroke.
Or you could pull the plugs, turn the engine by hand till the timing pointer is on TDC and check where the #1 piston is, it should be at the top of the compression stroke.
This is how I was taught so I am sure it is not the only way. Get the motor up on top dead center (TDC), remove the timing belt cover, and then check the timing marks on the crank, oil pump, and cam. Good video on how to do all of this here:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8OElr-Y0Ko
Thread on it here:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8OElr-Y0Ko
Thread on it here:
Yea that seems like a lot of work for something I'm unsure of being the issue. I'll do a compression test when I get a chance if it's low that could hint towards bad timing right? The problem feels more fuel related to me but I could be wrong but with all the ignition parts being new other than the crank sensor I'm assuming spark is good last night when I did the fuel pressure test it started fine then I left the gauge on the fuel rail for maybe a half hr went back outside took the gauge off tried to start it again and it wouldn't start felt almost like it's flooding since it would fire and sputter at wot but never quit catch or shut off once I let off the gas pedal
If you 'assume' it's fuel related can I 'assume' you're gonna hit it with some starting fluid to check?
I appreciate everyone's insight though just really hoping it isn't the timing if it is im just going to have to sell the car as is since I already have too many project cars so I'm trying to tackle the easier options first that I can do after work I hope yall understand
I don't know your situation, but it sounds like if it was just the timing belt replacing it and getting it over with would automatically advance this car from "project" status to "driver" in a hurry. I mean do what you've gotta do, but if it were me I'd look into taking care of it if that were the case. You'll definitely get more for a running, driving car than you will for something that needs a new timing belt. 
I've started taking off the timing cover it's a lot easier than it looks in the videos I watch i think mainly because they were on Rangers and there's a bit more to remove i haven't pulled the harmonic balancer but I removed the cover enough ti see the belt I will probably replace it when I have time to pull that balancer off and do the crank position sensor as well
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The Code 14 is telling you it is not getting a good signal from the PIP so in this case I believe that to be the crank sensor. I have seen these sensors get ferrous material on them which can mess the signal up. Realize that when you remove it the gap between it and the crank is supposed to be right at 0.020"
I will say though it went from starting and idling fine to not starting at all over the course of sitting for an hour do you all think the timing belt could've failed like that all the other symptoms seem to be related to timing but it feels like it went from running a little rough to nothing rather quickly I guess if it skipped a bunch of teeth while starting that could explain the issues but even after I got it to start and run once just stalled once rpms dropped to idle
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When the belt slipped on my 85 Turbo Coupe it was instantaneous loss of power but it still ran. I just brought it up as they have been knows to slip multiple teeth and cause all kinds of issues. With that said I am still leaning towards is the crank sensor failing as it is a hall effect sensor just like the PIP in the distributor on the 5.0's as well as the 90 and down 4 cylinders. Again, this could just be ferrous materials on the sensor (its a magnet) or the sensor itself has failed.
Thank you for all of your help I'm normally pretty good with cars but theses 90s systems can be a real pain to diagnose compared to the older 70s stuff I've taken your advice and I'm going to replace the crank sensor and while I'm doing that might as well throw a new belt on parts should be in by Wednesday I'll give an update once they are installed in the mean time I'm going to replace the maf, egr, and pcv since they are easy bolt ons and couldn't hurt to change out I really appreciate everyone's help hopefully everything returns to normal with a new belt and sensor
For me without any codes I would not be replacing any of that stuff but I get it as it can be frustrating. Hopefully its something simple and it gets back to running like a angry lawn mower.
He mentioned he replaced them in the first post along with a few other ignition related parts or were you saying pull them and see what they look like?
Yea I understand I wouldn't normally throw parts at something but it's an old car and ther parts I'm replacing are normally wear parts or things that can get dirty or clogged I could clean them but replacing them is just easier for the time being and I have a reasonable budget for replacing parts so I figured why not see if it helps
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