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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

2.3L to 2.3L swap problem!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shauns GT
  • Start date Start date Nov 24, 2006
S

Shauns GT

Member
Feb 6, 2003
101
0
16
Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
Nov 24, 2006
#1
  • Nov 24, 2006
  • #1
I have a 91 hatch that has a blown 2.3L. I am replacing the engine with a used one from a ranger. Is there any differences that i should be aware of?
the reason i am asking is that now that i have the ranger in and bolted to the trans i cant make the engine turn over to bolt the torque converter in. the studs on the converter do poke through the holes on the flexplate and both the converter and engine turned over durring installation. help me please.
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
24
118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Nov 24, 2006
#2
  • Nov 24, 2006
  • #2
What year ranger?

I'd say you didn't get the torque converter all the way seated on the shaft (slides over 2 notches) and now it's all bound up in there.
 
S

Shauns GT

Member
Feb 6, 2003
101
0
16
Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
Nov 25, 2006
#3
  • Nov 25, 2006
  • #3
The engine is out of a 94 ranger 5 speed truck. dont know if it was a 4x4 or not.
 
R

RustBucket

New Member
Jun 8, 2003
585
0
0
Buford, GA
Nov 25, 2006
#4
  • Nov 25, 2006
  • #4
You did remember to remove the pilot bearing from the back of the crank right?

The torque converter may be bound up against it.
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Nov 27, 2006
#5
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #5
Yeah, you definately forgot to take out the pilot bearing. You'll have to either pull the engine or transmission and remove the pilot bearing and bolt it all up again.
I did exactly that this summer, but at least I was bolting the two up on the garage floor. Just as you describe, it locks up the engine.
 
P

Ponycar

Founding Member
May 4, 2002
90
0
0
Virginia Beach VA
Nov 27, 2006
#6
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #6
If in fact you left the Pilot Bearing in the easiest way to remove it is to pack the void full of grease, use a bolt the same size as the hole, insert it, tap with a hammer and the hydraulic action will push the bearing out.
 
S

Shauns GT

Member
Feb 6, 2003
101
0
16
Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
Nov 28, 2006
#7
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #7
Thanks guys. never even thought about that bearing. it wasnt too much of a setback as all i had to do was unbolt the trans from the engine and pull it back out. i even had the engine on the hook still. ah another lesson learned the hard way. The grease method wasnt working for me so i got even with a diegrinder and carbide bit.
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Nov 28, 2006
#8
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #8
I had to resort to a die grinder and carbide bit as well, but I wasn't smart enough to try the grease trick first. I think it would have to be a really really tight fit to make it work.
 
R

RustBucket

New Member
Jun 8, 2003
585
0
0
Buford, GA
Nov 28, 2006
#9
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #9
A socket works better if you can find one that fits the I.D of the bearing. You'll have to use an extension you don't mind beating on to cover up the socket drive hole.
 
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