04V6Stang
Member
In post #18 you mentioned that the red wire #12 to the CCRM is "fed" from fuse 2.2, so I assumed just that. If there was no power to the wire, go back and check the source. I'll start over tomorrow with the CCRM plugged in.
I don't think this thread is F'ed up at all. I'm sure someone will read through all this info and find out what they should and shouldn't do to solve this same problem on their car. After all isn't that the whole purpose of a forum like this. It's just another tool to use, like a VOM( which I do know how to use)to help fix a problem yourself so you don't have to pay some shop or even worse, the local dealership.Dude...this is really a F'ed up test thread. Please re-read the instructions. No where does it state to remove the CCRM.
Fuse F2.2 gets it's power from the CCRM. So that would explain why F2.2 has suddenly lost power on a car that otherwise works. Hence the reason for the note about unplugging the switch affecting the downstream results.
The tests are to be done with the CCRM installed. It would have never occured to me to mention that as a requirement of the test.
At this point, we should consider all of your tests invalid because I'm completely unsure HOW the tests were performed.
A VOM is a tool. As a tool, it's usefulness depends to a great deal on the experience of the operator. Electrical issues can be a real PIA. The typical troubleshooting methods involve performing tests. Based upon the results, additional tests are performed. A bogus test result can set up a "wild goose chase" of epic proporations. You sir may have just been saved a great deal of wasted effort.
how to trouble shoot CCRM V6 1999-2004
Help is here. Note, there are wiring differences between the V6 and V8 AC systems.
Confirm the A/C pressure (20a) in the battery junction box.
Also confirm fuse F2.2, F2.24, and F2.23 in the central junction box. Confirm means more that just "look at it".
Are there any other DTC codes? There are some DTC codes that disable the AC (overheating is one).
Measure the resistance of the AC clutch black wire back to battery negative (key off). Should be low. Post. If not, STOP and find out why.
Confirm there is +12 volts with the AC and key on to the high pressure switch DG/OG wire. If no voltage, STOP and recheck your work because there's a problem in the wiring before the High pressure switch.
Go to the CCRM. Easier to access with the plastic fender liner removed.
Measure the resistance from CCRM pin#15 (BK/WH) back to battery negative with the key off. Post. Should be low. If not, check for bad grounds at the CCRM and battery.
Test CCRM pin #21 (DG/OG) for +12 volts. If no power, you failed because AC pressure fuse is bad.
Test CCRM pin#12 (RD) for +12 volts with the key on. If no voltage, you failed because fuse F2.2 is bad or there's a wiring fault.
Use an ODB2 scanner to find out if the PCM is calling for AC. If not, then this offers an explaination why the AC clutch won't engage.
With the key on, ground CCRM Pin#22 (PK/YE) to a known good ground. Does the AC clutch engage?
If not, since the AC clutch has already been tested OK, then replace the CCRM.
If the clutch does engage, then the CCRM is working as it should. Likely there is a wiring fault to the PCM or the PCM is bad.
If the CCRM needs replacement, recommend a re-man unit from your local autoparts store.
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Onto your questions.
The purple thing is a body harness connector. No active parts.
The CCRM is at the end of the blue arrow. Good work.
The yellow circle is the high pressure switch. Good job.