my mustang has been stuttering and drops rpms when I push down over half the pedal. if I do WOT it does it constantly and wont stop until I let off the gas. I have replaced all spark plugs and wires, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, and the air filter. I checked the MAF it looks really clean. need help the engine light isn't on and its getting worse. my battery is brand new to and the battery light isn't on. any help would be very much appreciated.
2001 MUSTANG V6 SPUTTERS WHEN ACCELERATING
- Thread starter JAKECAMPBELL2001
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08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
Please don’t throw any more money at it, it’ll only confuse the issue.
When a part is proven bad by troubleshooting, then replace it.
A Shop manual is a good investment, useful.
Whether the CEL light is on or not, there still may be codes. Have a Scan-tool? If not, most chain parts stores will scan your car for free.
Did this begin after something was done to the car, or start suddenly, over a time period?
There are a few issues that don’t always trigger a CEL, 02’s, CPS, Crank position sensor, for instance.
A decent Scantool will pickup things quickly if you know what you’re looking for, 02 sensor correction, fuel trim, if you can borrow one that allows drive cycle looking, live data streaming, it may be quite beneficial.
Buy a can of CRC MAF cleaner & with a few, no contact blasts, clean the MAF. You’ll never be able to tell if it’s dirty by viewing.
Run a Cool air intake? Check for vacuum leaks in it’s clamp point connections on it or the stock setup, unmetered air from any vacuum leak needs to be addressed. Check all your vacuum lines, any loose, dryrotted lines- replace.
Check your Grounds, Battery to Block, Block to chassis, battery to Computer. Pull them, make sure they’re solid, tighten them down.
Check all your wiring connectors, any splices that may have been made, spend a little time at this, also look at the wiring for your 02 sensors, they sometimes melt to the exhaust.
Pull your MAF sensor plug off while the motor’s running, if it doesn’t run absolutely awful or stall, that’s the direction you should be looking.
Did you set your TPS to <1 DCV at idle?
CEL flash repeatedly when attempting to accelerate hard?
Does it run the same engine cold or warm?
Does the car idle rough, miss when driving slowly, or is is specifically when you hit the throttle near or > half pedal?
Filled up at a new gas station recently, or car sit for an extended period?
Use electrical conductivity grease on the new plug wire ends? Make 100% certain they are terminated correctly, securely.
The Coil pack has issues with the connectors being corroded, make certain all the plug pins are clean, spray CRC electric or MAF cleaner, use electrical grease to keep out moisture & improve connections.
Good luck!
-John
Please don’t throw any more money at it, it’ll only confuse the issue.
When a part is proven bad by troubleshooting, then replace it.
A Shop manual is a good investment, useful.
Whether the CEL light is on or not, there still may be codes. Have a Scan-tool? If not, most chain parts stores will scan your car for free.
Did this begin after something was done to the car, or start suddenly, over a time period?
There are a few issues that don’t always trigger a CEL, 02’s, CPS, Crank position sensor, for instance.
A decent Scantool will pickup things quickly if you know what you’re looking for, 02 sensor correction, fuel trim, if you can borrow one that allows drive cycle looking, live data streaming, it may be quite beneficial.
Buy a can of CRC MAF cleaner & with a few, no contact blasts, clean the MAF. You’ll never be able to tell if it’s dirty by viewing.
Run a Cool air intake? Check for vacuum leaks in it’s clamp point connections on it or the stock setup, unmetered air from any vacuum leak needs to be addressed. Check all your vacuum lines, any loose, dryrotted lines- replace.
Check your Grounds, Battery to Block, Block to chassis, battery to Computer. Pull them, make sure they’re solid, tighten them down.
Check all your wiring connectors, any splices that may have been made, spend a little time at this, also look at the wiring for your 02 sensors, they sometimes melt to the exhaust.
Pull your MAF sensor plug off while the motor’s running, if it doesn’t run absolutely awful or stall, that’s the direction you should be looking.
Did you set your TPS to <1 DCV at idle?
CEL flash repeatedly when attempting to accelerate hard?
Does it run the same engine cold or warm?
Does the car idle rough, miss when driving slowly, or is is specifically when you hit the throttle near or > half pedal?
Filled up at a new gas station recently, or car sit for an extended period?
Use electrical conductivity grease on the new plug wire ends? Make 100% certain they are terminated correctly, securely.
The Coil pack has issues with the connectors being corroded, make certain all the plug pins are clean, spray CRC electric or MAF cleaner, use electrical grease to keep out moisture & improve connections.
Good luck!
-John
My '01 v6 is giving me problems. Idles rough when it is cold. After 20 30 minutes driving it will start sputtering rmps go up and down dies after that. I have to stop somewhere for 30 minutes to an hour let it cool down. When it starts sputtering I will try to get the RPM's up but the engine won't rev and it bogs and dies again, especially if I try to drive it bogs and dies again. The fuel pump was doing 40psi alredy replaced it. I also replaced iac valve, egr valve, egr sensor, sparks plugs, and wires. Still does the same. Im thinking replacing the coil pack.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Mine is still doing the same thing. I just have not bothered to get into it yet. I need to check for un-metered air getting into the system before I begin to remove things.
Since no one mentioned it, I would also have a look at fuel quality. An infrequently driven car with 1/4 tank can end up with stale gas or water (from condensation). If water got into the fuel, then this is the kind of symptom I would expect, particularly with ethanol-laden regular.
Suggestion: either drain the tank or do what you can to drive the tank to as near to empty as possible, then refill with premium (ethanol-free, if possible) and add a bottle of Techron Fuel System cleaner. See if the symptoms return.
Let me know what you find. I drive an '00 V6 convertible (not as frequently as I would like), and this is one of my worries.
Suggestion: either drain the tank or do what you can to drive the tank to as near to empty as possible, then refill with premium (ethanol-free, if possible) and add a bottle of Techron Fuel System cleaner. See if the symptoms return.
Let me know what you find. I drive an '00 V6 convertible (not as frequently as I would like), and this is one of my worries.
08GT500
5 Year Member
Actually, I did, lol
And now that you brought that point back up, they’re now using Methanol in addition to Ethanol, which eats aluminum.Rubber, and eats just about everything else within a ‘Pump in tank’ fuel system at high pressure, it’s actually electrically conductive, too...whereas Gasoline was not considered a conductor of electricity, (nor was any component of which they added) until Methanol,was introduced.
The remote gas station owners were told it was an octane BOOSTER, where Ethanol as used has 67% of the potency of Gasoline, this has around 50%.(AND it eats most of the crucial components of the system).Bonus?
Seems likely adding thiis was a Bureaucratic attempt to Curb the cost of Gasoline with at one of 4 Compounds (Was likely multiple choice for convenience so the Senators would NOT miss T Time) lol.,
Guy on SN was having misfire issues on his 06 Mustang V-6, then his 94’ Ranger, he’d start running different grades of fuel, and all his Misfire CEL’s and awful running Vehicles would cease.
Add it again, started all over, Misfire codes, awful drivability. At first, thought it must be systematic, until 2 vehicles began doing it...cease running the fuel, issues slowly went away.
Don’t have to list it as an ingredient as they hastily passed a Law absolving the refineries... if it’s below a certain number PPM in a massive storage tank, or 2.5% per Gallon.
Great how our Government navigates around issues!
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