2002 v6 mustang dead battery now won’t start..

Charlez

New Member
Jan 5, 2020
3
0
1
Dallas
Posted my old Stang for sell because I though it make some one a good car it sit in one spot for a month or so I drive it to the mail box and back and yesterday some one show up to buy it and battery was dead bought a new battery installed it used key fob to lock unlock doors because of the security system after I turn the key into on position theft light goes off after few seconds when you turn the car over the theft light becomes solid and goes away when u let go of the key is this normal ? It’s getting no gas but has spark anyone any ideas I try to different keys this car has never not started for me.. Check relays to pump and fuses nothing blown
 
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can ford tell me if my key is bad?? I have try locking the steering wheel and starting it nothing. Also check the cutoff in the trunk to and relay and fuses when I put key in the theft light goes off when I turn the key sometimes theft light comes on any more ideas ?
 
Hi, Did you isolate the 2 keys you have or both on the same ring?
Isolate them.
Have a code reader? See what the codes are in the CPU. This may/may not be your Keys/FOB/PATS, it may be coincidence.
Try disconnecting your battery’s (-) terminal for 15 minutes, reconnect & try to restart.

Does the car turn over quickly (certain the new battery is fully charged
Unfortunately, (for you at the moment) there isn’t any one easy way for one without the tools to do a relearn to defeat PATS or people’s Mustangs would be getting stolen & what good would it be- right?
A dealer can do the relearn IF that’s even the issue. A voltage spike by connecting a new battery may cause many things to occur. Sometimes by cycling the key or doing the steering lock trick may help.
Again, Codes in CPU are important. Pull them. Post them. Your owners manual has something about PATS, read it.
I’ll be in a better position to lend more of a hand this afternoon. I’ll keep my alert on to get your response tonight, however.
Do you have a Scantool to pull codes is the answer I’d really like to know. I’ll look at my notes, you can create an inductive loop with wire landed to 2 points which encircles the key that will get you started.
 
no I don’t have a code scanner tool never needed one car never gave me a problem past two years of owning it this has happen once before if I remember correctly but press the lock button on the door and pressing the reset button under the dash To turn alarm off it eventually started no luck this time I play with it for so long that the new battery is dead and on the charger lol I try unhooking the - for hour and redoing everything 5x. can the Ford house tell me if the chip in the key is bad ? I was starting to think maybe it’s the fuel pump for sitting but I moved the car a week ago by jumping it off and it ran fine. U think it at least try to start if it was going bad
 
Hi,
Last ditch, check fuses # 15 & 18. Window open, door locked, turn the key to the “Run” position & let it sit 10 minutes. Remove & unlock the door through the open window, insert into ignition & attempt to start. That’s the last of the “things thatve worked for others”, that I know of. I’d suggest calling a locksmith to come out to reprogram you’re keys, once your certain it’s not another issue. Be sure the specific ones you call are capable of doing it.
If the dealer had the key & car- yes, they could tell you if it was a PATS issue. With only a key, only a best guess. Increase the price of the car to offset some of the.cost.
Don’t kill your battery by turning it over, if you try a few more things just turn the key to on. No pump prime, it won’t start.
PATS spits a certain amount of flashes of the security light based on its status is. A Scan-tool will show other trouble codes, pending & hard.
You can measure voltage at the pump’s inertia switch with someone turning the key to run once you have voltmeter leads in place to see if.voltage is present for initial prime. Also turning the motor over. Don’t overdo it & drain your battery. There’s also EEC pins that voltage will be present at. Will be in shop manual.
Regarding motor firing at all after battery replacement, it’s impossible to tell, but unlikely an EFI driven motor would Fire a few cylinders off without a prime.
Depends on how recently the last run time was.
There is public domain software available to reprogram your PATS key, some free, some will cost. Around 250$ to have a locksmith come out & do this. I’m still unclear on the 2nd key, is it a transponder key, or just a regular key?
Cannot be near the other key when attempting to use it. It will not start if not a transponder key. (Plastic keyhead).

Link below:
Good luck! Wish I could help more.
-John
 
IF you turn the key on but do NOT crank AND the theft light goes out after a 3 second "prove out", THEN the PATS key has been read and accepted.

IMO you should consider the possibility that the reason why your car won't start is for a different reason than PATS.

Want to know for sure? Use an ODB2 reader to read the DTC codes. IF the reason for the crank with no start is PATS related there will be a DTC set to confirm this. The DTC code will specifically call out PATS as the reason for no start.

1996+ Crank with no start check list
 
Hi,
Last ditch, check fuses # 15 & 18. Window open, door locked, turn the key to the “Run” position & let it sit 10 minutes. Remove & unlock the door through the open window, insert into ignition & attempt to start. That’s the last of the “things thatve worked for others”, that I know of. I’d suggest calling a locksmith to come out to reprogram you’re keys, once your certain it’s not another issue. Be sure the specific ones you call are capable of doing it.
If the dealer had the key & car- yes, they could tell you if it was a PATS issue. With only a key, only a best guess. Increase the price of the car to offset some of the.cost.
Don’t kill your battery by turning it over, if you try a few more things just turn the key to on. No pump prime, it won’t start.
PATS spits a certain amount of flashes of the security light based on its status is. A Scan-tool will show other trouble codes, pending & hard.
You can measure voltage at the pump’s inertia switch with someone turning the key to run once you have voltmeter leads in place to see if.voltage is present for initial prime. Also turning the motor over. Don’t overdo it & drain your battery. There’s also EEC pins that voltage will be present at. Will be in shop manual.
Regarding motor firing at all after battery replacement, it’s impossible to tell, but unlikely an EFI driven motor would Fire a few cylinders off without a prime.
Depends on how recently the last run time was.
There is public domain software available to reprogram your PATS key, some free, some will cost. Around 250$ to have a locksmith come out & do this. I’m still unclear on the 2nd key, is it a transponder key, or just a regular key?
Cannot be near the other key when attempting to use it. It will not start if not a transponder key. (Plastic keyhead).

Link below:
Good luck! Wish I could help more.
-John
Disregard link, was not what was intended. Your FOB isn’t an issue. For a Bluetooth Scantool, buying one will help you with other vehicle issues in the future.