Progress Thread 2004 Comp Orange GT

[ctandc]

Only had a few minutes to mess with the Gyraline - there's a learning curve, but first impression is I like it. A lot.

Got sidetracked from the alignment issue with a nagging throwout / release bearing noise. Replaced the clutch cable when I got the car a couple of years ago. Old cable was stretched. It already and aftermarket quandrant and firewall adjuster. It's been fine with an adjustment now and again. Recently the bearing started to make some noise.

Even after clutch adjustment - still noise - Only with clutch engaged (pedal up) - at idle I can hear a slight chirp from the bearing. Almost ANY amount of of pressure on the pedal, noise goes away. Adjustment checked / rechecked. At 117K miles (105K actual - last owner drove 48K miles with the speedo fast because of the 4.10 gears) I figure it's about time regardless.

22 years of service is pretty good.

So I started shopping around for a clutch. Many everyone has an opinion LOL.

4.6 2v, Bassani headers / exhaust, JLT air intake, C&L plenum, Accufab Throttle body, 4.10 gears. Stock clutch is still fine - just the bearing noise. No need for a monster twin disc setup so I went with OEM equivalent.

Ended up with the Perfection Clutch / Zoom clutch kit, Ford Performance clutch fork, release bearing, release bearing, pivot ball and a LUK OEM replacement flywheel. (Only place that could even GET to resurfacing the OEM flywheel within a week or two wanted $90. new flywheel was less than $150 with expedited shipping).

All in for @ $600 - all new parts including a new rear main seal, since I'll be in there anyway.

 

[squeak93]

Clutches for the most part are very subjective to user feel and preference. When comparing similar "power" handling for each model/line of course.

 

[ctandc]

Started the clutch job a few days ago. I can drive my wife's car if needed, so no need to thrash all night. Spent most of a day off simply cleaning and organizing my shop. I HATE looking for a certain tool and it's not where it's supposed to be, simply because I didn't put it up after or in the middle of a projects. It's part of the reason I have multiples of certain things - I get aggravated looking and order another.

Got the workbench cleared off and clutch parts waiting patiently.

Got the car up on jack stands and finally started tearing into it. The Bassani headers, X-pipe etc have been on this car since '05. I knew I'd be in for a battle getting this stuff off. Didn't want to just cut everything off and then weld it all back. After dealing with some stubborn band clamps, got the x / mid pipe out

Got wrapped up in some other stuff around the house, and was working on the car in spurts. Long story not so long, ended up buying a cheap cordless Amazon impact. I have a monster air impact, that I've had for years, and I'd been contemplating a Milwaukee 1/2" - since I've had a 1/4" impact driver forever (and use the hell out of it for just about everything) plus drill etc - so getting something that used the same M18 batteries / charger seemed to make the most sense. $250+ for the bare tool, then seeing reviews etc. Never made a decision. Ended up watching a random Youtube video where these guys test impacts (Big names) that's basically all they do. They were joking about this cheap Amazon tool and they tried it - and suddenly they weren't joking anymore.

Out of curiosity I checked it out on Amazon and somehow I had a $50 credit - so this thing cost less than $40 and it came overnight. Figured at worse, I'd try it and return it if it sucked.

Case, two batteries, charger. Batteries came charged. This thing rips. Lugs, chassis bolts etc - it's made be question if things were torqued correctly in the first place. So back at it.

The other morning decided to utilize my 6 ton stands in front and my big 12 ton truck stands on the rear axle tubes and got the GT up higher

So I'm humming along, unplugging harnesses, routing them out of my way, drained the trans (fluid change was recent so I saved it for reuse) dropped the trans mount, got all the hard bellhousing bolts out etc. I get the trans jack under the trans and realize it's not coming out with the RH / passenger header installed.

Bad pic - but these headers were originally installed as separate pipes. it routes around the bellhousing. NO WAY the bellhousing can back enough to clear the Pressure plate to drop down. After reconsidering my life choices - I decided to stop procrastinating and drop the K member - it's not like it takes a tong of time.

Tearing suspension out (control arms, balljoints, outer / inner tie rods, struts, springs, brakes all replaced back in '23 after I bought the car).

I should have taken the time to paint those parts when they were new. Three years of daily driving. Rinse repeat on the other side, got the rack out and zip tied it to the swaybar out of the way, supported the engine and out it came.

Here's what I'm dealing with - bad pic - as far as clearances to get headers bolts on the RH side

After figuring out the bolts were 5/16 12 point ???? - was able to get them out without too much drama. Mainly shorty / ratchet flex head wrenches and sneaking 1/4" sockets / extensions through certain spots. If I had a superpower, I might waste it on being able to make my arms super long and super skinny and triple jointed at will.

More room. With only the support bar supporting the engine now, with the K member out, I decided as an extra precaution to support the engine with a floor jack / 4x4 under the oil pan. Transmission on trans jack, trans mount dropped, last two BH bolts out, it started coming back. Then I realized the LH O2 sensor in the header collector was in the way. Turns out I already had a replacement on hand for that, so I cut the harness and mangled it enough on top (no room to get impact or even double wrench / O2 sensor socket on it now) to get the trans back and down to clear the tunnel.

Trans it out. Not quite enough room to get the trans out while on the trans jack - and don't think I really care. I can move it out of my way and it only needs the fork / pivot ball / release bearing installed.

The clutch is ALL original. 22 + years old. Lived with 400HP (Vortec) for 40k+ miles back in the day. Currently at a tick over 100K. Still in great shape. The release bearing? It was SHOT. I got to this thing just in time, I don't know how it didn't blow apart.

Some wear on pivot ball. But pressure plate, clutch (OEM Ford pt# intact + Valeo stamping) and flywheel in good shape to be honest. The pilot bearing? Not so much.

They put the wrong flywheel on my car - my car is orange.

Rear main seal is actually dry - but around the plate? No so much. I already planned on new RMS, so I'll clean it all up and install new.

Went to get my pilot bearing puller - and the narrow teeth - one of them is broke off. Wondering if I lent it to someone. Didn't want to borrow a tool from the neighbor, it was late, I wanted to get it out before I knocked off, so grabbed a hot dog bun, cut the handle off an extra alignment tool I had and a few minutes later it was out.

Inside of that bearing was rough, even before the addition of bread LOL.

Did get the K member cleaned up and any bare metal / primer or surface rust spots, I hit it with some rust converter paint I had laying around. Might rattle can it black if I feel like it.

Hopefully get back it tonight........

 

[gkomo]

Holy hell thats a lot of work!

 

[ctandc]

Holy hell thats a lot of work!

Wasn't as bad as most make it out to be. I was taking my time. I get aggravated when I have to hurry. BUT if I HAD TO - if I was JUST dropping the K member out in probably an hour or so? It's honestly not hard if fasteners cooperate.

- wheels
- hang calipers
- rotors
- outer tie rods
- sway bar bushing
- struts
- ABS sensor
- Springs
- Rack and pinion (hung from swaybar with zip ties)
- Motor mount nuts
- (8) K frame bolts

Don't think I missed anything.

Honestly? After doing this - when I yank the engine in this thing? I'm dropping the entire drivetrain out the bottom. Remove K Member, disconnect wiring harness / hoses, drain cooling system, rig something up on the ground, lower car, remove engine support bar.

 

[squeak93]

Dropping out the bottom is great as long as you can get the car high enough to get it out. Can always be like the f body guys and stand it up on rear end with a ghetto winch setup. I prefer stabbing engine, trans, headers all in one shot through the top. Takes a few hands but is done in 5 minutes.