2006 S197 Gt Traction Issues!

Hey guys, I've done plenty of searching and figured I had gotten the solution to my issue, but I'll post it up here and see what replies I get. I have a 2006 mustang GT.
5 spd manual, c&l intake, off road x pipe, Borla axle back. Bama 91 race tune. It's lowered on vogtland springs which are supposed to drop it 1.2" all around apparently. Adjustable panhard bar. It has 285/35r20 in the back Pirelli p zero tires. My issue is wheel spin, not wheel hop. I can't launch right for the life of me, either I'll just roll out and take off slower, or risk the excessive wheel spin if I dump the clutch at anything above 2000rpm. And it has factory 3.55 gears. I've searched and thought it's the fact that the lower control arms need to be relocated because the suspension geometry gets majorly shifted when the rear drops, and it would make sense, because I did notice and instant drop in traction after it got lowered, but I took a look at the angle the lca's are sitting at, and they're almost level, the axle end is barely higher than the front(which i know it should be lower at the axle than the front mount point for ideal straight line traction), question is, will something like whiteline lca relocation brackets make a huge diff in traction or do I got other issues? I've attached a pic with to show the angle. Thanks

Svtpilot said:

You pretty much answered your own question.With the car sitting on the wheels the LCAs should be parallel to the ground. So you defiantly need LCA relocation brackets to correct the geometry. You also need to upgrade the crappy factory arms. I'm partial to BMR , but just about any aftermarket arm will be a vast improvement over stock. Better arms and the brackets will help. You should think about getting drag radials when you are ready to replace the rear tires.

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Okay, thanks for the reply. I will be replacing the factory control arms soon as well. How necessary is an adjustable upper control arm?

SpartaPerformance said:

Depending on how low the car is, an adjustable 3rd link is a good idea to set proper pinion angle, that will also assist in traction.

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I was thinking of eventually getting the adjustable upper, it's lowered 1.2" from factory. So it's not slammed, but none the less, I guess it would deff be good to get eventually. Would an alignment shop be able to set the pinion angle afterwards?

That's how the car sits

Svtpilot said:

I had an non adjustable UCA on my 2010 with a 1.5 inch drop with no issues so I would think you should have no issues with your car lowered 1.2.inches.having said that,when I get around lowering my '12 I will be going with an adjustable arm. Regardless of which you decide to get, make sure you replacing the mounting bracket as well, upgrading that is probably as important as the arm itself.
P.S. If there is any possibility of you upgrading to a 1 piece drive shaft in the future then definitely go with the adjustable UCA.

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Interesting... I will be sticking to the 2 piece driveshaft, actually not going to be spending much more money on the car. Got plans of keeping it for a year or two then upgrading to either a n 03-04 terminator, an 07-08 gt500 or a 12-13 5.0.... Whatever I get a deal on. The car drives/performs fine aside from traction off the line, and even that, now that it's better weather, the tires are actually gripping a lot better it seems. Curious to know how important the uca, Lca, and relocation brackets are? I may just leave it all together and not spend more on it. I did some visual mods to the front end though took some serious time and measuring but looks aggressive.