2007 v6 cooling fans/electric windows causing engine stumble

Hello anybody who can help. My 2007 mustang v6 base model recently had a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor and was fixed. All seemed to be fine until the next time I drove it when I noticed that the engine would stumble at idle when the cooling fans would kick on. It is a short stumble and recovers right away but is very noticeable. The RPM's seem to drop just enough to move the needle but then returns to normal. The other day, I also noticed that when the automatic electric windows come to a full-up position, it causes the same motor stumble. First thought is a large load on the electrical system, but the battery and alternator were replaced less than two months ago. Any suggestions would be great!!!!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


My guess is that it is an electric draw that is causing that because ur alternator is regulated and when its putting out only what’s necessary but when something else creates a draw it causes that draw
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Hello anybody who can help. My 2007 mustang v6 base model recently had a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor and was fixed. All seemed to be fine until the next time I drove it when I noticed that the engine would stumble at idle when the cooling fans would kick on. It is a short stumble and recovers right away but is very noticeable. The RPM's seem to drop just enough to move the needle but then returns to normal. The other day, I also noticed that when the automatic electric windows come to a full-up position, it causes the same motor stumble. First thought is a large load on the electrical system, but the battery and alternator were replaced less than two months ago. Any suggestions would be great!!!!


Your problem is actually the alternator...Diode packs manufactured in MEXICO are crap...they are soldered instead of being welded in on the circuit. Oreilly's has an alternator with properly welded in Diodes....your voltage is probably just at the lower end range of the because one of the three has poor connectivity, anything needed to support out of engine needs drops the voltage and steals from ignition power supply. Aftermarket rebuilds on line for about 130 bucks or the OReilly route....Did my 08 Supersnake with only 1100 miles, 05 F150, 07 Expedition, and 05 Mustang....sad I know, Ford trying to save a buck, bit us in the backside.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
My original thought was the alternator......my dumb*@# took it to Ford and they replaced it.($800 later). I also read a few places that it was a good idea to go with the bigger battery (40r) rather than the original (96r) so today I replaced that as well. Now I have an added problem. When I changed out batteries, it reset the KAM and had to re-find the idle. I have read many posts with a procedure to fix this and I completed the procedure. When I took it for a drive, It went into limp mode and now shows a wrench light on the instrument cluster. I am told that this is an issue with my throttle body, but it is brand new as well. After a few more drives, the light went away but I just cannot get this car to idle properly. It is just a bit rough and a little low by maybe 50-100 RPM's. Short of having the equipment at a dealership, I have tried just about everything with many different scan tools but cannot seem to find the problem. I wish it would be nice to me and throw a code of some sorts!!!!! I am ready to give up all together.
 
Has anybody had an experience of Ford putting in a bad alternator?? Is there a test I can perform to check it? Perhaps a voltage leak test on the alternator? I have my doubts that a new part would fail straight from the Stealership but I have seen some weird stuff happen under the hood before.