2011 5.o

What are you trying to do? Are you trying to eliminate a check engine light because of modifications or are you actually looking to simulate the signal for testing purposes?
I just got a off-road x pipe and cat delete an do not want the check engin light to come on. Can't afford a tuner right now
 
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Moved to TALK
 
the onley mil eliminators I can find are for 1994-2004 year models . I don't know if that will work on a 2011.

I've never heard of anyone successfully using MIL eliminators on a coyote. Since you have an off-road x-pipe on, we are dealing with the downstream O2 sensors. I have only heard of three options to get the check engine light off:

1. Buy a tuner to turn off the rear O2 sensors. Depending on your state's emissions, this might not work since the computer never completes the emissions tests and therefore won't pass an OBDII emissions scan.
2. Use oxygen sensor defoulers to "trick" the o2 sensor into thinking the cats are still there an working, has worked for a lot of people. An example is here> https://www.modernperformance.com/product/Vibrant_Oxygen_Sensor_Defouler/universal-items-exhaust I believe most people have to run two of those on each side.
3. Run cats
 
I wish folks would come to see us BEFORE they break their Mustang.

Put the OEM exhaust back on for now. All you've done by just throwing that pipe on there is to hurt performance.

Your car used to have and comes factory with what is called a "tuned exhaust" system. It is tuned to promote cylinder exhaust scavenging.

You have killed it and are now making less power than you did with the stock exhaust.

Put the factory stuff back on and do your research so that you can possibly use that pipe you purchased to free power instead of decreasing it.
 
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I wish folks would come to see us BEFORE they break their Mustang.

Put the OEM exhaust back on for now. All you've done by just throwing that pipe on there is to hurt performance.

Your car used to have and comes factory with what is called a "tuned exhaust" system. It is tuned to promote cylinder exhaust scavenging.

You have killed it and are now making less power than you did with the stock exhaust.

Put the factory stuff back on and do your research so that you can possibly use that pipe you purchased to free power instead of decreasing it.
I haven't hurt anything because I haven't installed my x pipe yet . I was simply looking at my options .
 
I haven't hurt anything because I haven't installed my x pipe yet . I was simply looking at my options .


Personally, i would wait till i had a tuner. I'm in the middle of teaching myself the coyote ecm strategy so i dont know this for sure, but ive heard that if you delete the cats without dealing with the downstream o2 sensors, the ecm will start adding fuel to cool down what it thinks are failing cats. If thats true, then it will hurt your performance without a tuner.

How is your emission testing in your area?
 
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Personally, i would wait till i had a tuner. I'm in the middle of teaching myself the coyote ecm strategy so i dont know this for sure, but ive heard that if you delete the cats without dealing with the downstream o2 sensors, the ecm will start adding fuel to cool down what it thinks are failing cats. If thats true, then it will hurt your performance without a tuner.

How is your emission testing in your area?
we don't have emission inspections in Tennessee and I just bought a cold air intake and custom tune from Lund Racing. that should do the trick.
 
what is the best oil to run in my coyote ? I have been using royal purple but I have also herd that rotella is a good oil . I'm just looking for whats best for my 5.0


Look in your user manual. I think just about any name brand 10w-30 (dino oil or synthetic or semi) is acceptable with regular oil change intervals.

The test results that I've seen to date so no notable difference from one brand to the next.

The key is regular change interval and not so much which one you use (stay away from BubbaGumb motor oil etc.).

For supercharged applications, I prefer full synthetic due to it's ability to resist being vaporized by the extra heat.
 
Look in your user manual. I think just about any name brand 10w-30 (dino oil or synthetic or semi) is acceptable with regular oil change intervals.

The test results that I've seen to date so no notable difference from one brand to the next.

The key is regular change interval and not so much which one you use (stay away from BubbaGumb motor oil etc.).

For supercharged applications, I prefer full synthetic due to it's ability to resist being vaporized by the extra heat.
Ok thanks . I think ok stick with royal purple . That's what I've used for the past year .