New Member
Oct 19, 2019
Cadillac, MI
Hey there, I have a 2011 4.6l pi motor out of crown Vic that I am building for my mustang. That being said I was going to bore the block but I’m going off to school soon and need to get the swap done and save a little money before I go. I’m looking for a forged rotating assembly for the 289 that fits the stock cylinder bore and I’d rather not have the block clearanced if I don’t have too. Also looking at running trick flow twisted wedge heads, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great I’ve been searching a lot and it’s difficult to find matching forged 4.6 internals
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Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
Can you please clarify, Uncertain about
project budget, seems your intent is for an NA build, but down the road, have you considered future FI ? What kind of Brake HP/TQ #’s are you are you seeking out- now?
Looks like you may not be off to school as scheduled, unfortunately..Stay safe
Whatever direction you go, I suggest getting the block into a trusted automotive machine shop, have them run through it, boil it, magnaflux it. Measure it up & tell you what it needs, may be a deck, l plate hone & you’ll have assurance it’s good to go.
If machining needs be done- like decking, boring, align honing, it should be done., or go with another block or approach. With minimum 3-4K$ on the line for a forged reciprocating assembly, alone, that tiny shop sum makes sense.
$$ aside, not many businesses exist that can be trusted with finish machined, tight tolerance parts at distance. Part damage when shipped is the other concern.
D.S.S. would be quite helpful (JED), DSS also sells TrickFlow parts at cost...DSS...(Stroker 281). They’ll also have what you seek. (Coast (CHP) or Skip White also have reasonable, quality parts.

If it’s a (</=) 500HP buiild, you can run a more economical approach by running a factory setup Nodular Iron cast Crank, floating pin forged pistons, peened forged steel I-Beams, etc. example:.

This link includes some very good resources & other information....
You should have a shop you can trust here, i’d reconsider a bit more about block prep before any parts are bought. I understand time is a factor, but this is your bottom end, be sure your block is correctly prepped, were you planning self-assembly?
For a fresh build, I Set up CR mid-line. For a strong timing curve now, >10.0-10.5:1 is pushing it on 91-93 octane. If you’re contemplating FI, the bottom end is ready for it, & affects nothing now in regards to NA HP.
Bolt up large chamber heads, drop CR to 8.5-9:1, allowing room for higher boost levels later...long duration FI Cams, Methanol injection, FI method of choice, you’re safe.
You’ll need to run pistons with Twisted Wedge & other “inline friendly” heads. 4.6l, likely a dish. As all modular blocks are internally balanced, parts weighting & balancing the Crank isn’t done if you buy it from Summit. Buy it from a good source, have a shop you can trust close.
Check out the resources & hope you find what you’re seeking.