2g vs 0g wire for battery relocation

[luckythirteen13]

1g vs 0g wire for battery relocation

its time to get some weight off the front end the first thing to go is the battery. i want to know if 1g wire is thick enough. ive heard you should run nothing smaller then 0g but summit sells a bunch of kits that are all 1g which makes me thick it will be good enough. what do you guys thick. i want to order my wires soon cause im about to put in a bigger fuel pump so with the tank out, i figured it would be easy to drill for the battery box.
thanks guys

<--for my g/f cause she's canadian...lol

 

[vristang]

With wire the bigger the better. Especially when running the wire for more than a foot or two. Resistance will increase dramatically with length

i would go as big as you think is reasonable financially. Also, don't just look at sumitt. Car stereo shops are great places to get huge cable with low resistance.

 

[Black 93 Fox]

Yup the bigger the better. You can also use welding cable just go down to the local welding shop and ask for how many feet you need.

 

[Curse]

Yup the bigger the better. You can also use welding cable just go down to the local welding shop and ask for how many feet you need.

I got 30ft of 0g heavy duty welding cable for $30. Most welding shops will even sell you the copper(better than lead IMHO)ring terminals need to ground the battery. I never understood why most battery relocation kits sell a 1g wires for power and a 2g wire for ground. I made my own kit, and have not had any problems. Good Luck.

 

[Black 93 Fox]

Like said befor use the copper terminals.

 

[Blk91stang]

Yup the bigger the better. You can also use welding cable just go down to the local welding shop and ask for how many feet you need.

I wouldn't go that route. Quality automobile wire is usually double insulated or has a more flexible covering on it whereas "welding cable" is not protected properly for automobile use. This means the insulation and covering is WAY more prone to cracking over periods of use. Wait 5-6 years and see...

 

[Black 93 Fox]

I work at a performance shop and we use the welding cable. I dont think a shop that does extremely expensive cars is gona use the wrong item. And welding cable is around extreme heat Ive had the cable on my welder for 10 years no cracking yet. Also if you install it the correct way in the frist place by useing rubber gromets and such your not gona have rubbing issues.

 

[jrichker]

Some help with the ground wiring...

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars