3.73 vs 4.10

also forgot to add they are the same price right now at lmr i’m pretty sure, and i don’t do too much highway driving i just want to burn rubber and have fun
"Burn rubber and have fun"? 4.10 then.

Normally 3.73 is the suggested gear for a manual and 4.10 for autos, but you'll have a better chance at solving the chicken or the egg controversy than receiving a unanimous response on 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10.
 
3.73 is a good everything gear. Lots of people like the 4.10 in automatic cars. 3.73 is more of a 5 speed gear. I've put them in AOD cars but have never owned one with 4.10s. The 3.73 were great behind all the t5s. 4.10 was a little much for the highway. With your car being stock I would go 3.55 or 3.73. The shift points will change in relation to vehicle speed. You'll change gears sooner in every gear. The transmission is taxed with the stock gear ratio.

I'd go 4.10s but be prepared to loose top end speed.
 
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I put 3.73's in my AOD car and hated them. Yeah it was fun and quick from 0-40MPH, but any sort of highway driving got annoying. The AOD won't allow WOT in Overdrive, and highways cruise at 80-85MPH around here. If you wanted to pass a car and had to get on the gas, the trans would drop out of OD and practically rev up to redline. It got highly annoying. I swapped to 5-spd and it was much more usable on the highway with the 3.73's

Really up for you to decide. Plenty of RPM calculators out there.
 
what do you suggest then because i don’t have a ton of highway driving and my trans already does that with the gears in it now it only downshifts in my foot is to the floor and then it goes down into second and also how bad was the 5-spd swap because i’ve also been thinking about that
 


I can't really decide for you. You need to make that decision yourself. My car was pretty quick, so I think I would have enjoyed 3.27's with the AOD. I did a lot of drag racing though back in those days, and the 3.73's made that car really fast for what it was. I had a couple bolt-ons in a otherwise stock AOD LX and was running 14.1's with that setup.

I just hated driving it around on a highway cruise and stopped going to car shows with it if it required a 45min+ ride on the highway.

5-spd swap wasn't bad really. Worse part was gathering all the parts. Second worst part was the pedals, but I've done a pedal removal a handful of times now and it's really not too bad at all.
 
I will chime in on the 5 speed swap portion. get on your local Pull A Part website and register for text messages. I am on the list locally and when something new hits the yard I take a drive up and see what there is to offer. Now in my area you MUST be ready to turn the wrench if you find something because the Guys here will strip a car in a weekend. I was on the list for 3 months before I found the T5 for my 01 project.

 
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yeah i’m pretty far from highways and everything so i’m leaning towards 4.10 just to have some fun because it’s completely stock and not making much hp right now anyway so thanks, and yeah i’ve been trying to find a t5 with everything i need without breaking the bank so
 
There is an old saying...."Don't fear the gear". I have 3:73's in my AOD car(s) but I wish I went 4:10's sometimes. The last thing you want regret not going with 4:10's.
 
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3.73 is well known as the all around perfect gear. But, you've started down a rabbit hole of 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10 with no end. I suggest you research some of the earlier posts on this topic.
 
Might as well do everything while you are in it...including replacing the posi traction clutches and axle bearings and seals.

With added heat from higher rpms a transmission cooler would also be money well spent on a street car. At 55 the rpms should be somewhere between 2100 and 2300 depending on tire size. ( using lmr rpm calculator ). At 80mph about 2700+ rpm.

If money is a huge issue I would hold off on doing gears until you have enough to do everything concerning the rear.
 
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Use this if you are replacing the bearing. RP-5707 it is called the "Axel Saver" bearing. It is at least twice as thick as the one you will remove and it re located the bearing to the outside of the housing. In this the reasoning is when the bearing goes bad under the OEM parts the shaft will grind down onto the axel housing and cause the shaft itself to need replacing.... Just something to think on when you are getting into this rear end. Since you are taking it apart, it makes sense to take this extra step to ensure success.
 
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I've seen many an axles with grooves worn in them from the bearings. Good times.