302 Engine build....

If you are only looking for 300hp, I think a roller block is the be route. They are good for around 500hp. They are not stressed at that level and hydraulic roller would be nice.

I think your builder is on the right track. It's not like he is recomending anything exotic or expensive.

for 300hp any block and crank can be used. also 300hp is a good level for a street engine. with the right suspension and gearing you should run in the mid 14's fairly easily.

HO roller motors are great for a mild to mid street car. They are also very easy to come by and parts are everwhere. 300rwhp shouldn't be too hard to obtain. There are plenty of fuel injected 5.0s with 300rwhp with just heads/intake/cam setups with smog equipment. It is true that the older blocks are stronger but for 300hp its not necessary. The breaking point of the HO motors are 450ish. If you were going 351 I would suggest going with an early block... preferably a mexican...
Kevin

Should work fine. It sounds like he is just going to use the shortblock and freshen it up. Might want to ask if he can bore it out to 306... might as well since he is going to take it apart.
Kevin

I thought this was an interesting article on 302 upgrade w/o cam swap. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford_302_v8_engine_buildup/

I would like to know what carb they used on the baseline. The road demon was added with the heads and exhaust. 100hp sounds about right for that. Also helps that they are running a very tight and fresh shortblock. Stock the HO was rated about 225ish... if they were able to get almost 280 for their stock shortblock base line(with unknown carb), they got a very good engine builder. Don't get me wrong. AFRs are fantastic heads but I think the article may be bloating it up a tad.
Kevin

I see the AFRs on ebay for $1334 buyt it now but have them set up for make an offer - be curious to see how much more they would be than $1100. I've got a 289 performer and 600 holley holley on 70 302. I'm starting to think I'd like to swap myheads out but keep same carb and intake - what do you guys think?




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFR-...119736793QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180119736793

65fastbackresto said:

But the AFR`s have a 3 angle grind on the valves, the $1100 set didnt. I know thats got to help, but I'm not sure how much a machine shop would charge to do the same thing.

Click to expand...

AFR's are $1400 because they are CNC (read: robotically) ported. A 3-angle valve job is pretty much standard fare for just about any halfway decent aluminum cylinder head, so don't sweat that. I've got a set of AFR 165's on my '90 and their build quality is top notch, they'll mean good power and reliability. What brand is your builder wanting to use? If you want to save a little Edelbrock's are also one of the best around, and their SBF heads come port-matched out of the box.

65fastbackresto, your initial post has left me with a few other questions: How is buying an older motor supposed to save you money? Like all the others are saying, a latemodel hydraulic roller block is more than capable of 300 horse and you'll be more likely to find a virgin (unrebuilt) core. Why does the builder WANT a 2-piece rear main seal block? Does he like leaks?

Also, all small block fords are externally balanced, they just have a different counterweight value depending on the year. On or about 1980 (someone must know exactly) Ford went from a 28.2 oz counterweight to a 50 oz. counterweight.
This is not an issue as long as the crank, damper, and flexplate carry the same value.

I'm just aiming to clear a few things up because I went through the same thing w/ my first engine build. You're going to get pulled in ten different directions if you ask ten different people for engine advice. Before you get invested financially, do some real research on your project. Look into the 5.0 market and consider taking advantage of some of the technology that has been made available in the past two decades.

--Mike

why not just ask your engine builder whay he wants the specific parts he wants. i would question everything he asks for personally. i always do. don't ask in a demeaning way though, just be curious. if he won't give you specific answers go elsewhere. i hate those engine builders that keep secrets from the person they are building the engine for.

They started thinning the blocks in early to mid 70's.
All 302's r externally balanced.
A 2 piece seal is a disadvantage due to leaks.
A roller block will handle a more aggressive cam with better manners.
Either will work fine for 300 h.p.