302 Engine!!!!!

67staaang

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Mar 30, 2005
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hey i was wondering if you guys can help me find a good 302 engine that has at least 340 hp. i have a 67 stang that wants a new hard core engine. i found a good one at diabloengine.com its a 302 with 345 hp. help me out thanks.!! i am not willing to spend a whole lot. just a reasonable price. thanks
 
What price range are you looking at?

You have the AutoZone type long blocks at the bottom end and custom race motors at the top. Ford Racing sells decent crate-motors somewhere near the middle and then there's the DSS/Coast type outfits that sell crates for about the same as FRP but with a little better materials and attention to detail (IMO). I would not call DSS/Coast crate motors cheap though.
 
They're not very descriptive of what all that includes. Scoggin Dickey in Texas had the cheapest price on Ford crate engines last I looked. Their price on the 345hp engine with aluminum heads is $3395 which is only $400 more than diablo's $2995 engine which is built with "seasoned" block, crank, and rods. The Ford engine is built with all, brand new parts.

Lets put it this way, if you dyno the diablo engine and it doesn't make 345hp, can you send it back?
 
LOL.. for 3000 you can remove the 289.. buy a forged 347 kit.. have it balanced.. use the old dampner/ intake / go to 750 vac holley/ the hipo cam is pretty small .. new cam and lifters/valve springs/valve job.. Keep the MSD and you will have OVER 345 HP and a stroker to boot!!

Just me.....................

Thumper
 
I know that NOT everyone has the skill to build and engine.. or maybe the tools !! But guys.. it IS easy!! and a LOT cheaper than these "crate engines".. let me try this..
You have NO tools!! No truck to transport !! NO skill !!
But most ALL the things needed are RENTABLE!! Knowing one of your friends has a pick up.. and there HAS to be a salvage yard close to you... and you AND your buds do know how to read... Cool??

Lets get started!! Used stock 302 or HO from a salvage yard!! ( low 150.00 to 350.00 ) 10.00 for your bud for gas to haul the block to a car wash... 5.00 for the spray wash... then to the house!! tear the engine apart in the back of the truck!! ( yep.. make it a week end job) Heads off.. look at the engine.. if it is a 5.0 there is a real good chance there is no ridge at the top of the cylinders.. and if it is a 87-92 you will have FORGED pistons!! Flop over the block and remove the oil pan... look at the bottom end.. notice the rods.. the main caps are numbered!! ( chevy doesnt even do that....!!) Break out the manual and read on how to pull the bottom appart.. ( and put it together) Remove the water pump and the timing chain cover.. you will need the 5.00 rental dampner puller, off come the dampner.. the timing cove with the water pump still attached!! look at the timing chain assy... move the crankshaft till the timing chain dots align.. like in the book!! remove the chain.. the retainer and the cam!! Cool?? it is still in the back of the truck... it is sat afternoon and it is time for a beer.. or soda..LOL Break out the good ole catalogs.. Sumitt Jegs PAW look up engine kits.. 347?? 331?? 302?? what ever.. IF you have the roller block and forged pistons.. and the cylinders are good.. all you will need is a " re-ring kit" that will be bearings.. rings.. gaskets !! Cheap HUH?? Take the engine to the machine shop.. call a few or ask your friends where they go.. Have the block mic'd and cleaned ( 30-45.00)!! new cam bearings. ( 25.00 to 45.00 P&L) Freeze plugs come in your kit!! Have the cramkshaft Mic'd to see if it NEEDS turned or just cleaned and polished..( polished 35.00 or turned 85.00) then you Know what size bearings you need for the crankshaft!! Cake so far... Get a new cam/lifters/t-chain/oil pump... all from the catalogs.. about (420-500.00 ).. Heads?? GT40s?? P's?? Ported E7s?? AFR's ...your choice on that...

5.00 to wash out your buddies truck... the machine shop will be ready on wed.. pleanty of time to dream about your first engine rebuild!! ( which is FREE.. of course)

Cleaning it all up sux... but get a can of carb DIP, usually 1 to 5 gal tins.. ( 10.-35.00) set the pistons and rods in that stuff over nite... any other parts that you need to clean up.. wash of with water and blow dry with Brake Clean and then oil good with WD40.. Remove the rings.. and rent a "Piston grove cleaner (15.00) and have the guy show you how to use it!!

Now ... everything is clean!! block is at the shop and will be cleaned.. parts are on the way from the catalogs.. and the total is ... what?? 1200-1300.00?? and MOST machine shops will short block it for 400.00-500.00 if you decide NOT to do it!! making the high total : **$1800.00 bucks!!*** IF you have to have it bored and new pistons... add 400.00 for Hyper.. 600.00 for forged with the machine work at the shop to bore and press ( 150.00-175.00) equals a HIGH total of about 2500.00!!** and it is your engine and sweat intead of a 2800.00 Crate short block + 250.00 UPS and that will be a Hyp. Piston engine!!

Long huh...??

Just me........................

Thumper
 
good walk through Thumper....

don't forget to put everything in baggies as you remove it, so you don't lose anything !
I signed up for an engine rebuilding course at the local Community College and built myself a groundpounding 351C.
Learned alot and loved it !
and now my 70 mach1 drives around with an engine I BUILT !

Mach1steve
 
haha thanks for the info guys. thumper doode im not sure if i am ready to build an engine man. i think i can do it but i have doubts in my head. im still thinking about it though. thankss im going to check those sites out.
 
thumper460 said:
I know that NOT everyone has the skill to build and engine.. or maybe the tools !! But guys.. it IS easy!! and a LOT cheaper than these "crate engines".. let me try this..
You have NO tools!! No truck to transport !! NO skill !!
But most ALL the things needed are RENTABLE!! Knowing one of your friends has a pick up.. and there HAS to be a salvage yard close to you... and you AND your buds do know how to read... Cool??

Lets get started!! Used stock 302 or HO from a salvage yard!! ( low 150.00 to 350.00 ) 10.00 for your bud for gas to haul the block to a car wash... 5.00 for the spray wash... then to the house!! tear the engine apart in the back of the truck!! ( yep.. make it a week end job) Heads off.. look at the engine.. if it is a 5.0 there is a real good chance there is no ridge at the top of the cylinders.. and if it is a 87-92 you will have FORGED pistons!! Flop over the block and remove the oil pan... look at the bottom end.. notice the rods.. the main caps are numbered!! ( chevy doesnt even do that....!!) Break out the manual and read on how to pull the bottom appart.. ( and put it together) Remove the water pump and the timing chain cover.. you will need the 5.00 rental dampner puller, off come the dampner.. the timing cove with the water pump still attached!! look at the timing chain assy... move the crankshaft till the timing chain dots align.. like in the book!! remove the chain.. the retainer and the cam!! Cool?? it is still in the back of the truck... it is sat afternoon and it is time for a beer.. or soda..LOL Break out the good ole catalogs.. Sumitt Jegs PAW look up engine kits.. 347?? 331?? 302?? what ever.. IF you have the roller block and forged pistons.. and the cylinders are good.. all you will need is a " re-ring kit" that will be bearings.. rings.. gaskets !! Cheap HUH?? Take the engine to the machine shop.. call a few or ask your friends where they go.. Have the block mic'd and cleaned ( 30-45.00)!! new cam bearings. ( 25.00 to 45.00 P&L) Freeze plugs come in your kit!! Have the cramkshaft Mic'd to see if it NEEDS turned or just cleaned and polished..( polished 35.00 or turned 85.00) then you Know what size bearings you need for the crankshaft!! Cake so far... Get a new cam/lifters/t-chain/oil pump... all from the catalogs.. about (420-500.00 ).. Heads?? GT40s?? P's?? Ported E7s?? AFR's ...your choice on that...

5.00 to wash out your buddies truck... the machine shop will be ready on wed.. pleanty of time to dream about your first engine rebuild!! ( which is FREE.. of course)

Cleaning it all up sux... but get a can of carb DIP, usually 1 to 5 gal tins.. ( 10.-35.00) set the pistons and rods in that stuff over nite... any other parts that you need to clean up.. wash of with water and blow dry with Brake Clean and then oil good with WD40.. Remove the rings.. and rent a "Piston grove cleaner (15.00) and have the guy show you how to use it!!

Now ... everything is clean!! block is at the shop and will be cleaned.. parts are on the way from the catalogs.. and the total is ... what?? 1200-1300.00?? and MOST machine shops will short block it for 400.00-500.00 if you decide NOT to do it!! making the high total : **$1800.00 bucks!!*** IF you have to have it bored and new pistons... add 400.00 for Hyper.. 600.00 for forged with the machine work at the shop to bore and press ( 150.00-175.00) equals a HIGH total of about 2500.00!!** and it is your engine and sweat intead of a 2800.00 Crate short block + 250.00 UPS and that will be a Hyp. Piston engine!!

Long huh...??

Just me........................

Thumper
I think your story is full of crap............the beer starts earlier.........but the rest is all true:rlaugh:

it REALLY is that easy, I built my first engine in high school auto shop and it lasted about 15 years even with nitrous and never broke a thing on a stock bottom end,but it did die when the blower went on and fule system was up to par.
 
302 coupe said:
few people think they can do it the first time. Its pretty easy. Just buy a good book, do your research, use common sense, you'll be ok, and you'll have way more money.
The difference for me was between CAN and WILL (or WANT to). I bought a balanced and blueprinted short block myself, I know I could probably build it exactly the same way myself, there are no special skills required but to do the full monte on the blueprinting takes a LOT of time. That was time I did not have and I figured it was wise to farm that out to folks who do hundreds of these a year.

While it was not worth it to me to pay to even have the long block built I can see the argument that it is worth the savings in time to just buy a drop-in motor complete with wires and peripherals.

To date I have had the ring and pinion professionally installed (meshed), the short block blueprinted by DSS, and the transmissions internals done by outsourcing. The rest I'm doing myself over the course of a few hundred Saturdays :D
 
Ist engine...

It is lke anything you do for the FIRST time... just think on it and remember.. it is only a hobby!! AND fun!! LOL

Have fun....................

Thumper

PS This poor Fastback has over 20 different engine combos since I bought it new!! And probably MORE to come!! LOL
 

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MAN you guys make me want to build one myself but one of the things that confuse me is compression, pistons and all those little things that you have to do exactly right or at a certain degree or something. i dont know HELP ME DECIDE!!! cause if i am going to build one i want to start now..
 
Most Kits will offer stock compression.. stay with 10:1 or under for your first build!! Unless it is stock IT will say so..like " 11.1 compression or 10.5:1 ect.." Like I said .. look at your engine first, BEFOR you buy parts... IF the cylinder walls are clean, and there is NO ridge at the top of the cylinder.. reuse your PISTONS/Rods/Crankshaft... and Hone and reuse your block!!

Just me........................

Thumper