302 vr's 351

muddslide

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Mar 10, 2003
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DAYTONA BEACH
What are the major differences between the 302 and the 351. Can I use the same waterpump, timming chain, alt and other exterior bolt ons? Also are the tranny holes on the back the same, can I bolt the same tranny to the 351? thanks
 
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This is some what a vast subject, i'd recommend a search. But on the specifics you asked about, that's a big old no on the waterpump and timing chain, but the accessories up front like the alternator/power steering can be used, but you'll need a different bracket for them that's specific to a 351W. The tranny will bolt right up also. You will however, need new headers, new intake (only the lower if you're EFI), you can use 302 heads but it would be a waste of time unless you've got some nice aluminum units. Also depending on whether or not you're EFI or not, you'll need a cowl hood because it's going to be too tall to fit under your hood without a lot of other things, like a lowered tubular K member, solid motor mounts, and the shortest height EFI intake you can find. If you're going carbed it's much easier, but if you plan to run a Victor or Victor Jr. intake with or without a carb spacer, and a taller style air filter, you'll need the cowl.


BTW i believe the bell housing is different for a 351W, but dont quote me on this one.
 
Thanks, I'm not worried anout hood clearence, I'm also bolting on a 671 blower and scoop so i will have to cut my hood. I have aluminum heads already on my 302 but i'm looking for around 600 rwhp. I know this is alot but with the r302/r351 blocks I know this can be happen. I'm just looking to build the best most cost effective sbf for my stang
 
Bellhousing is the same, 600rwhp with a blower, christ I'm going to see 500+ n/a with box stock parts. 600 is doable n/a.

Dart block, 440cubic inch stroker, afr225,TEA TFS "R", victor's, or any head of high flow caliber, super victor intake, nasty solid roller (or hydro) just a quick off the top of the head list, but you could see 650-750fwhp out of such a combo :hail2:
 
well i'm not rich so I will stay with a 302, now the question is should I go with the r block, dart block or a sportsman block? I quess the questions is how much do you want to spend on a motor. I'm looking for the best combo for my car
 
You can expect to have a few K just in the block, not counting a single item in it. The block itself is something like 1500 bucks, which is why a 351W is just better. If you put a nice main gurtle on the 351, you'll be just as strong if not damn close to a 302 R block. Stock 351Ws are 4 bolt mains on the back 3 mains i believe, so it's loads stronger than a stock 302, plus the block is just plain thicker.
 
shops are usually 20 a hole and an extra couple to get the top milled and all that stuff. my bill came out to 105 with the nice discount i got for being part of my grade at school and its bored 40 over and the decks milled all that stuff. got some diamond grinded shait with the top of the cylenders but i didnt listen when my auto teacher was talkin so i have no clue what else they did. if your still in school anywhere just have the autoteacher call bout it it works out good in the end. rent a book from the library if you wanna know what your talkin bout too
 
5.0 HOtrain said:
Some years of 351 cleavlands were 4 bolt mains, no 351 windsor ever was.


Thanks for that correction. I just read where i got that and i mistaked the stocker for the FRPP M-6010-N351 block, which i'm guessing is the part number for the Lightning block. Either way, it does for sure have 3 inch mains, which even at 2 bolts per, they're stronger than the 302's.