Put the wrench down and stop thinking immediately. If you run "the bottle" which I assume is nitrous, how is that going to help bearing life? Does it have some magical bearing potion in it or something?LandonC said:A 347 has a longer stroke. Which means it travels further, up and down, in the cylinder. That means the rings are moving more and eventually wear out quicker. bearing and piston wear would be the same, unless you're running the bottle.
This is by far and away the most retarded thing I've ever heard you say....and you've said some pretty retarded stuff...5spd GT said:If money isn't an option go with the 331. In general it will cost another $500 bucks for the shortblock over a 306 (a bit more actually). Figure in the added price of a 28 oz flywheel and matching balancer.
A 347 will "burn" more oil over a 331 over prolonged period of time in a controlled enviroment. Increased cubes equals increased oil burning potential. It is minimized much more than "yesteryear" but you can't change the engine dynamics.
There is a reason why they make a 331. If the 347 had the same pros as the 331 with no side effects the 331 would not be made. It just wouldn't be practical in the enthuisiast market.
If your going for a blower the sidewall pressure will be greater with the 347...but a dart block could cure that...but it will also "cure" your wallet
Joe
), it's my opinion that the 331 kits came about because an industry "standard" way of making a stroker kit is to add a quarter inch of stroke to the crank. A good idea, and one that I would look into if I wanted to put a serious 347, would be to use the 3.25" crank with a 4.125" bore. A 3.25" crank on a 4.000" bore simply isn't cost effective.
And can you prove that it will split the lifter valley sooner? Or is this just more guessing based off your physics book?
) What happens when you build a 3.40 stroke 347 using a 331 piston with a 1.175" CH instead of the typical 1.09" CH?

