• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

331 or 347??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Project 77
  • Start date Start date Nov 21, 2003
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2

red94fiveo

New Member
Apr 12, 2003
1,269
0
0
Wichita, KS
Nov 22, 2003
#21
  • Nov 22, 2003
  • #21
ProKiller said:
what would you suggest for a supercharged engine. I was lookin at DSS for a 331 short block b/c the 347 said for "mild boost" which makes me a little bit nervous about it. I plan on running something in the area of 15#s. what you guys think?
Click to expand...

Which one of the 331 were you looking at? I know they make a bullet, pro bullet and super pro bullet short block. I say for 15#'s the pro bullet might work, but you may want to spend the extra dollars on the super pro bullet. I've heard pretty good things about DSS.
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Nov 22, 2003
#22
  • Nov 22, 2003
  • #22
A stroker plus a blower is flirting with disaster of a split block if a stock block is used. It doesn't matter if its bullit, pro bullit, etc.... the block will split before the rods and crank leave go. I've often wondered why guys put all this top of the line forged stuff in the stock block... the block will fail first.
 

Down

Founding Member
Mar 20, 2002
309
0
0
Overland Park, KS
Nov 22, 2003
#23
  • Nov 22, 2003
  • #23
Killercanary said:
A stroker plus a blower is flirting with disaster of a split block if a stock block is used. It doesn't matter if its bullit, pro bullit, etc.... the block will split before the rods and crank leave go. I've often wondered why guys put all this top of the line forged stuff in the stock block... the block will fail first.
Click to expand...

That's why with my limited funds and a planned S-Trim, I'm just throwing a cheapo shortblock in it (thinking about those <$2000 X2C 331's) and listen for the ticking

J
 

gxnos

Founding Member
Apr 14, 2002
173
1
0
Birmingham, MI
Nov 24, 2003
#24
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #24
id say go with a nice 331

the problem with the 347s is that the wrist pin is actually IN the oil control ring. all the 347s have this problem, there is nothing you can do about it. Another problem is the stress on the cylinder walls, and block clearancing. It will end up costing alot more money and you get a less durable engine. i got my 331 for $979.00 with a 0 balance and no block clearancing. total project costed me less than $2,000, including machine work other misc parts.
 
6

67stang390

New Member
May 29, 2003
379
0
0
Seattle, WA(home) ASU(college)
Nov 24, 2003
#25
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #25
gxnos - 347 pistons often do have the wrist pin intersecting the oil ring, but almost any modern piston designed for a 347 has a relocated wrist pin, or some form of oil support rail in the oil ring to correct this problem. It is an old problem which is mostly just a rumor today. 347 strokers say 10 or 15 years ago(or something like that) were based off a ground down 351C crank and utilized standard or overbored pistons which had the oiling issues you hear about now. Probe and SRP both make pistons which are used in the most common 347 kits which do not have any oiling issues.

As far as stress on the cylinder walls, a 347 does have a higher rod ratio which CAN lead to this. However, as long as your motor is assembled correctly and professionally, you will use a torque plate to simulate this stress while the block is overbored. Also, a 347 will often make power at lower RPMs than a 331, which helps to further reduce stress. I'm not saying this is always the case. Every motor is different.

"Block clearancing" can be done with a dremel tool or other grinder in probably an hour or so. I think my machine shop threw that work in for free when they assembled the rest of my 347 stroker. It is simply notching the skirts of the cylinder, and sometimes has to be done with a 331 as well. This is also often dependent on whether you use I-beam or H-beam connecting rods.

Please don't take this as a "347's are way super better than 331's!" post because that's not what I am implying. I just want people to realize that both motors will make great power as long as they are WELL BUILT. There are so many rumors about 347's that it's hard for anyone to find out the truth. The most important factor in building any stroker motor is to have it done professionally to tight tolerances.
 
B

baglock1

The Bartender
Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
6,612
1
78
Space Coast, FL
Nov 24, 2003
#26
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #26
moneypit94 said:
that would exlpain why i could really only find it on one website. Could be that they have some left over too?
Click to expand...

Last I heard, Ford is still making them but they only fire up the molds once a year and for a limited run. Since the aluminum blocks are cost prohibitive, it's more financially wise for Ford to do a run once a year along with all the rest of the aluminum blocks.

However, if it is true that Ford dropped them from the line up, fret not. Dart is producing them alongside their iron blocks. The Dart and Ford blocks are similarly priced and weight/strength is near equal as well.

Once I start my motor, I'll be going with the F302 (or Dart's version). And it will be a 347 minimum. I might research the work involved in taking that ford block out a few more cubes though...
 
B

BeenStroked

Member
Apr 5, 2003
188
0
16
Sherwood, Or
Nov 24, 2003
#27
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #27
If I had to do it over again I would go with the 331. I built a 347, I love it but for reliability and a daily driver the 331 would most likely apply better. The 347's tend to burn oil more also. I go through about 1 qaurt every 1000 to 1500 miles, depending on driving-city or highway.
Just my .02
Jeff
 
B

baglock1

The Bartender
Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
6,612
1
78
Space Coast, FL
Nov 24, 2003
#28
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #28
BeenStroked said:
If I had to do it over again I would go with the 331. I built a 347, I love it but for reliability and a daily driver the 331 would most likely apply better. The 347's tend to burn oil more also. I go through about 1 qaurt every 1000 to 1500 miles, depending on driving-city or highway.
Just my .02
Jeff
Click to expand...

Properly built 347's shouldn't burn any oil. The fact that all 347's burn oil was perpetuated back in the day when the piston ring intersected the oil ring land. Nowadays it isn't an issue.

Assuming that you didn't get a POS stroker setup, I'd look elsewhere for your missing oil.
 

gxnos

Founding Member
Apr 14, 2002
173
1
0
Birmingham, MI
Nov 24, 2003
#29
  • Nov 24, 2003
  • #29
67stang390 said:
gxnos - 347 pistons often do have the wrist pin intersecting the oil ring, but almost any modern piston designed for a 347 has a relocated wrist pin, or some form of oil support rail in the oil ring to correct this problem. It is an old problem which is mostly just a rumor today. 347 strokers say 10 or 15 years ago(or something like that) were based off a ground down 351C crank and utilized standard or overbored pistons which had the oiling issues you hear about now. Probe and SRP both make pistons which are used in the most common 347 kits which do not have any oiling issues.

As far as stress on the cylinder walls, a 347 does have a higher rod ratio which CAN lead to this. However, as long as your motor is assembled correctly and professionally, you will use a torque plate to simulate this stress while the block is overbored. Also, a 347 will often make power at lower RPMs than a 331, which helps to further reduce stress. I'm not saying this is always the case. Every motor is different.

"Block clearancing" can be done with a dremel tool or other grinder in probably an hour or so. I think my machine shop threw that work in for free when they assembled the rest of my 347 stroker. It is simply notching the skirts of the cylinder, and sometimes has to be done with a 331 as well. This is also often dependent on whether you use I-beam or H-beam connecting rods.

Please don't take this as a "347's are way super better than 331's!" post because that's not what I am implying. I just want people to realize that both motors will make great power as long as they are WELL BUILT. There are so many rumors about 347's that it's hard for anyone to find out the truth. The most important factor in building any stroker motor is to have it done professionally to tight tolerances.
Click to expand...


....I agree

I just heard about all these new kits that have oil problems that arent supposed to.
 
B

BeenStroked

Member
Apr 5, 2003
188
0
16
Sherwood, Or
Nov 25, 2003
#30
  • Nov 25, 2003
  • #30
baglock1 said:
Properly built 347's shouldn't burn any oil. The fact that all 347's burn oil was perpetuated back in the day when the piston ring intersected the oil ring land. Nowadays it isn't an issue.

Assuming that you didn't get a POS stroker setup, I'd look elsewhere for your missing oil.
Click to expand...

"Nowadays it isn't an issue"- how long ago are you talking that this was a problem with the 347's?
 
6

67stang390

New Member
May 29, 2003
379
0
0
Seattle, WA(home) ASU(college)
Nov 25, 2003
#31
  • Nov 25, 2003
  • #31
BeenStroked - See my post. 347's burned oil when they first were designed to use a ground down 351C crank. Companies didn't yet make a piston to account for the longer rod and shorter piston. I don't know the exact date they started to correct this problem, but I would say in the last 10 years or so.
 
B

baglock1

The Bartender
Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
6,612
1
78
Space Coast, FL
Nov 25, 2003
#32
  • Nov 25, 2003
  • #32
67stang390 said:
BeenStroked - See my post. 347's burned oil when they first were designed to use a ground down 351C crank. Companies didn't yet make a piston to account for the longer rod and shorter piston. I don't know the exact date they started to correct this problem, but I would say in the last 10 years or so.
Click to expand...

If memory serves, I think the first pistons specifically designed for the 347 came out in the mid 90's. The first time I saw them was right after I built the 5.0L for my ranger.
 

gxnos

Founding Member
Apr 14, 2002
173
1
0
Birmingham, MI
Nov 27, 2003
#33
  • Nov 27, 2003
  • #33
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/04/331/index.shtml

....331....
 

Project 77

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2002
370
2
16
Bernville PA
Dec 2, 2003
#34
  • Dec 2, 2003
  • #34
Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I Am going to go with a DSS 306 or 331 motor. I want to build the motor and have it in the car for next summer but eventually I want to throw some sort of power adder. What I am looking for is an occasional driver that can run into the 11 second range. I thought i was going to start this project aftet the first of theyear but it looks like i may get started as early as next week. Anyone from the Philly/Harrisburg Area of PA..stop by have a few beers, see what I'm up to
 
9

93cobra12

New Member
Nov 21, 2003
531
0
0
Seatte, WA
Dec 22, 2003
#35
  • Dec 22, 2003
  • #35
daily driver ide go with a 331, 347 for track use..
 
E

eddienyr

New Member
Jun 22, 2003
433
0
0
Marysville, Washington
Dec 22, 2003
#36
  • Dec 22, 2003
  • #36
Speaking of oil, how long do you wait while breaking the engine in before you can use synthertic oil?
 

Numbles

Active Member
Dec 10, 2003
998
0
36
Chicago, IL
Dec 22, 2003
#37
  • Dec 22, 2003
  • #37
Its up to you how many miles you want to run regular oui. Id say at least 500. Then break open the fuel filter and look for any metal shaving of any kind. After that, throw in some synthetic oil and have some fun.
 

ljinx23

New Member
Dec 10, 2003
163
0
0
Northeast Pennsylvania
Dec 23, 2003
#38
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #38
I'm from the scranton area, but it's kinda a far ride. maybe though when they have a show or t&t night at like maple grove, i'll meet up w/ ya. Name's Len, here's the e-mail, ( ljinx23@yahoo.com) and that goes 4 anyone else that wants to meet up.
 
E

eddienyr

New Member
Jun 22, 2003
433
0
0
Marysville, Washington
Jan 1, 2004
#39
  • Jan 1, 2004
  • #39
What will this set up get me as far as HP, 331 stroker, AFR185 heads, Edelbrock performer U/L intake manifold,F303 cam. Daily driver and it has to pass smog.
 
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 95 GT/Saleen Supercharged 331 install
  • from6to8
  • Mar 22, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
24
Views
729
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 6, 2026
from6to8
S
Preparation for Holley Terminator X install – Foxbody 306 (electrical fan, alternator, MSD Ignition, etc)
  • So_Flo
  • Mar 1, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
22
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Mar 4, 2026
General karthief
Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install
  • from6to8
  • Sep 25, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 20 21 22
Replies
420
Views
9K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 6, 2026
from6to8
J
Forced Induction Turbo SBF Fuel system RECOMMENDATION
  • Jschallitz
  • Jul 31, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
6
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Aug 2, 2024
Monkeybutt2000
M
Which one of these 3 intakes make the most sense for my 331 combo
  • from6to8
  • Jul 25, 2024
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
7
Views
2K
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Jul 26, 2024
AeroCoupe
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?