classic boost
Founding Member
331 Supercharged...?
- Thread starter NewStangOwnr
- Start date
CraigMBA
New Member
A 331, blower, heads, and misc. parts is gonna set you back a minimum of $7K. You know that right?
iskwezm
10 Year Member
7k is on the VERY LOW side, i think i have about $12k+ in my turnkey engine/fuel system
Yes I do.
I'm taking a loan anyway. To build credit, because I haven't taken one out before.
I also have the hook up on block work and rear ends and transmission work. Going to school for automotive helps alot.
How does a DSS 4 bolt main block sound?
Route666
Active Member
Yes I do.
I'm taking a loan anyway. To build credit, because I haven't taken one out before.
I also have the hook up on block work and rear ends and transmission work. Going to school for automotive helps alot.
How does a DSS 4 bolt main block sound?
I like DSS's approach - cleanroom, CNC machine for blueprinting - they seem to be very "on the ball".
I think I figured it out.
I'm going to keep the stock block for now. Continue with everything planned and a main gurdle for safety.
Can someone look this over for me, sound like a good setup.?
331 Stroker- Scat forged crank, forged I beam rods, forged probe pistons.
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
AFR 185s
JBA Headers
Flowmaster 40s
(?) Good Balancer?
March Pulleys
(?) Aluminum Radiator (Suggestions?)
And probably a Paxton Novi 1200 with intercooler.
Carb- Any personal favorites for blow thru?
I'm going to keep the stock block for now. Continue with everything planned and a main gurdle for safety.
Can someone look this over for me, sound like a good setup.?
331 Stroker- Scat forged crank, forged I beam rods, forged probe pistons.
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
AFR 185s
JBA Headers
Flowmaster 40s
(?) Good Balancer?
March Pulleys
(?) Aluminum Radiator (Suggestions?)
And probably a Paxton Novi 1200 with intercooler.
Carb- Any personal favorites for blow thru?
You didn't say the year, but an intercooler will be a pain, or near impossible. Not just the IC placement, but the intake pipping as well.
Keep it below 6500 and just use a performance products balancer.
CSU and C&S make great blow thru carbs. Or if the boost is low, you should be able to do yourself.
Keep it below 6500 and just use a performance products balancer.
CSU and C&S make great blow thru carbs. Or if the boost is low, you should be able to do yourself.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
Forged crank? I have not heard of many cast/non forged cranks breaking. Usually its rods/pistons. Also, you probably will split the block before you would snap a crank. Also, flowmasters kill hp compared to straight through mufflers. If you like the sound, then go for it of course. Any reason for the JBA shorties? Longtubes do produce more power.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
FWIW, I went with a DSS pro bullet set up. It has:
Level 10 CNC Block
Main Support System
Extreme X Forged Pistons
Forged I-Beam Rods
Nodular Iron Crankshaft
Moly Rings
ARP Main Studs / Rod Bolts
Fully Race Balanced & CNC Blueprint
It makes right around 420 flywheel HP, and hopefully more with some port and polish. I may throw a smaaaall nitrous shot on it, but its really close to maxing out the stock block. All in all, my motor set up/radiator/fuel/eleectronics is realllly close to 10K.
Level 10 CNC Block
Main Support System
Extreme X Forged Pistons
Forged I-Beam Rods
Nodular Iron Crankshaft
Moly Rings
ARP Main Studs / Rod Bolts
Fully Race Balanced & CNC Blueprint
It makes right around 420 flywheel HP, and hopefully more with some port and polish. I may throw a smaaaall nitrous shot on it, but its really close to maxing out the stock block. All in all, my motor set up/radiator/fuel/eleectronics is realllly close to 10K.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
Big pump, capable of 17+ psi and sustaing that psi along with a boost referenced regulator, expect to pay about $500-600 for the pump and about $100+ for the regulator
sorry to say, you need to take a step back and think about what your getting into here. It sounds like you want a racecar that runs on piss and wont overheat ever!
for 7g lets hook it to my beat c4 (oh! its a 5 bolt bell, oops, that wont work, new trans on the way, there goes the budjet) and sloppy 200,000mile 8" rearend to boot (wonder why that broke on the second pass).
Keep your goals realistic, how much hp can street tires take? do you want to throw money into a sportsman class driveline and pull low 13's at the track once in a blue moon when you go? shelbys "race cars" had ~300hp and your looking for outrageous power out of 87 swill & stock heads on a shoestring.
Take what you have apart and see what you have and what is wrong with the motor first. It may be a simple repair. If you are upping the hp in the future there are chassis, fuel, cooling issues to address first. Make a budjet, include time estimates, multiply by 3 (or if you are like me, 4) and research research research....build in stages that don't require buying parts twice or 3 times. "if" the bottom end needs rebuilt decide if the 289/302 or mexican block will do, if not decide on an a4, sportsman, boss, dart, man of war is what you need. Rebuild so you can slap on whatever head you want (valve reliefs in the slugs). I dont think you realize the costs and time involved on a project like what you asked about. If you want to just go out on the weekends and lay a couple of stripes down a stock 289 in good tune will do that.
for 7g lets hook it to my beat c4 (oh! its a 5 bolt bell, oops, that wont work, new trans on the way, there goes the budjet) and sloppy 200,000mile 8" rearend to boot (wonder why that broke on the second pass).Keep your goals realistic, how much hp can street tires take? do you want to throw money into a sportsman class driveline and pull low 13's at the track once in a blue moon when you go? shelbys "race cars" had ~300hp and your looking for outrageous power out of 87 swill & stock heads on a shoestring.
Take what you have apart and see what you have and what is wrong with the motor first. It may be a simple repair. If you are upping the hp in the future there are chassis, fuel, cooling issues to address first. Make a budjet, include time estimates, multiply by 3 (or if you are like me, 4) and research research research....build in stages that don't require buying parts twice or 3 times. "if" the bottom end needs rebuilt decide if the 289/302 or mexican block will do, if not decide on an a4, sportsman, boss, dart, man of war is what you need. Rebuild so you can slap on whatever head you want (valve reliefs in the slugs). I dont think you realize the costs and time involved on a project like what you asked about. If you want to just go out on the weekends and lay a couple of stripes down a stock 289 in good tune will do that.
CraigMBA
New Member
If I could do it again, I'd build a 347 with 185 AFRs and a single plane and call it good. That would be 500+ HP and you could drive the snot out of it - and it would be easy on parts.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
66forfun,
you make some good points there about drivetrain goals. My car has been down for 3+ year because stock components just dont go well with performance parts. I grenaded my original 289 block (bent the valves, ect. and did enough damage to the cylinder walls that the block was trash). I went with the dss bullet I posted above with AFR 185's, and a dual plane intake. My old carb was not big enough, so a call to pro-systems went in. Well now I have the motor running, and I just need to finish up the brakes to have a driveable car. Luckily the previous owner threw a toploader in it that should be able to handle the power. BUT, I still have a 8 in rear that needs to be replaced before I can race it or even really hammer on it. SO, I have a great motor, and a suspension built for serious drag racing (caged, ect.), but my rear still is my limit. (And will be till I can get enough cash together to get a 9 in.) SO, my suggestion is to build for your ideal goal for the car. Dont go overboard on the power department unless your goal is to race it, or you are willing to pay for it for street play. I started my build with the goal of having an 11 second, all motor, stock body car. I will be there, but it has been VERY expensive.
you make some good points there about drivetrain goals. My car has been down for 3+ year because stock components just dont go well with performance parts. I grenaded my original 289 block (bent the valves, ect. and did enough damage to the cylinder walls that the block was trash). I went with the dss bullet I posted above with AFR 185's, and a dual plane intake. My old carb was not big enough, so a call to pro-systems went in. Well now I have the motor running, and I just need to finish up the brakes to have a driveable car. Luckily the previous owner threw a toploader in it that should be able to handle the power. BUT, I still have a 8 in rear that needs to be replaced before I can race it or even really hammer on it. SO, I have a great motor, and a suspension built for serious drag racing (caged, ect.), but my rear still is my limit. (And will be till I can get enough cash together to get a 9 in.) SO, my suggestion is to build for your ideal goal for the car. Dont go overboard on the power department unless your goal is to race it, or you are willing to pay for it for street play. I started my build with the goal of having an 11 second, all motor, stock body car. I will be there, but it has been VERY expensive.
You all have very valid points, I agree. I need to step back and really decide on what I want.
I would rather spend the money on a car, to make it fast, than on a bike, and die quicker.
Anyone disagree? I would love a bike, just to death trap ish for me.
Realisticaly-
Fast, Fast Street Car
Some sort of FI, whether now or later.
Some sort of reliability.
I have the time, and would rather do it now, than later when I want to drive it.
Well see what happens.
I would rather spend the money on a car, to make it fast, than on a bike, and die quicker.
Anyone disagree? I would love a bike, just to death trap ish for me.
Realisticaly-
Fast, Fast Street Car
Some sort of FI, whether now or later.
Some sort of reliability.
I have the time, and would rather do it now, than later when I want to drive it.
Well see what happens.
If you are going to school for automotive and are looking to build credit, buy quality tools. What are the snap on boxes going for nowadays??? wanna see http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/toolStorage.asp $2500 for a base (yes, just the base) cabinet suitable for a pro wrench.
Try not to carry too much debt especially when your young, you can create a big hole to dig out of. Everyone will want to reach into your pocket once your working in your field. Acceptable levels of debt will depend on your starting salary and comfort level so plan accordingly. I would say tear her down and learn from the noisy motor. Need help, post pics and ask, the net (stangnet) is your friend? If its beat scrounge craigslist for late model driveline and just keep the old car running so you can enjoy it, convert to injection/od if you want. Want to go faster throw a shot of nos at it, blow the motor, find another $500 donor after you tear into that and learn another lesson. Try to save for recreation (hot rods/bikes...whatever floats your boat) and use debt sparingly on things like a house with a nice big garage. Good luck.
Try not to carry too much debt especially when your young, you can create a big hole to dig out of. Everyone will want to reach into your pocket once your working in your field. Acceptable levels of debt will depend on your starting salary and comfort level so plan accordingly. I would say tear her down and learn from the noisy motor. Need help, post pics and ask, the net (stangnet) is your friend? If its beat scrounge craigslist for late model driveline and just keep the old car running so you can enjoy it, convert to injection/od if you want. Want to go faster throw a shot of nos at it, blow the motor, find another $500 donor after you tear into that and learn another lesson. Try to save for recreation (hot rods/bikes...whatever floats your boat) and use debt sparingly on things like a house with a nice big garage. Good luck.
I agree with 66forfun. You don't have to have the fastest car.......... at least not now. I work in the investment business and see far to many people who get into debt problems and never get control of it. Keep the budget lean in the early years. 12 years after college I finally have the funds to do what I want to my car. Be patient Daniel son. When I first got out of school (married the day after gradutation) I had a monthly budget of $40 for my car. It took a long time to save for that MSD 6AL but I really liked it when I could afford it. When you are young or if cash is not readily available follow the phrase "Save the show and bank the dough." Just my opinion and you know what they are like. Good luck on what ever you do.
