342 Afr 205 And I Need Help!!!!

kok2k2

New Member
May 21, 2013
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I am new to the whole forum thing i am at my witts end with this car and i decided to ask for help.

My setup.
Ford 342
Afr 205 heads
Comp 690 lift cam
3500 stall converter
28" tire
410 gears
C4 PA trans
Holley 750 carb
3100lb mustang gt


Time 12.07
I feel i should be running better than this with my setup what changes do you all feel i can make to get more out if the car. Any positive help will be appreciated.
 
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Do you know the compression of the motor? Or at least if it is a flat top or dish piston? Afr 205 I'm assuming 1450 which is a 58cc...it is stamped on the front.

So its a solid roller setup? What's the complete can specs and what is the lash set to?

What diameter tq converter? Does it stall at 3500 behind that combo? What's the 60ft, 1/8 et and mph and 1/4 mph?

What header and exh is on the car? What intake?

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The car has 10.7:1 compression. It has flat top pistons . Yes it has solid roller set up. I will post a pic of the cam spec sheet. I also have a 300hp nos kit on the car but I feel it should perform better on motor.
 

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what does it 60 with that converter? and what kinda MPH?

if the converters real tight it wont run worth a :poo: on motor. the X275 car only cuts like a 1.50 on motor but its been 1.151 on thre bottle. 8.94@155 on motor to a 7.73@156 shutting it off coasting on the bottle. so it could just because it doesnt run killer numbers on the motor i wouldnt worry to much unless its showing signs of it being pretty close on the motor
 
Ok a couple of questions. Do you feel the cam is too large for the combination. And do you feel i should go up to a 4500 stall converter. I also street race the car and dont spray in the street. and would like for it to perform better on motor and have to depend on nitrous solely.
 
the cam question would be for better for rick then me. but the converter can be set up right on motor or set up right on the bottle. a nitrous converter is going to be to tight for the motor and a motor converter is to loose for the bottle. dont think you'll hurt anything on the bottle if its to loose it just wont run as good as it can.
 
You meant street DRIVE, not race, right? (Wink wink) Do not forget the aux. tranny cooler if you go with the loose convertor. I suggest hard lines and fittings for the cooler. Hose and clamps are looking for trouble unless you at least flare the tube ends to keep the hose from sliding off under pressure.
 
my buddies 347 with 14:1 compression and a similar cam that closed earlier only made 200 psi of cranking compression. at 10.7:1 and a 60* intake close event that thing is bleeding off a lot of cylinder pressure. if it were mine i would run a cam in the 230-240* duration range with a intake close event in the mid 40s. then you have the exhaust side. again, too much duration and the closing event is causing a lot of overlap and bleeding off cylinder pressure. not to mention that the airspeed is probably moving at the speed of smell with that much cross section and lobe area on a 43 ci cylinder.
 
Guys this all great information and i am taking it all in. Btw i totally meant drive the car on the street. My 60 foot time on motor is like 1.74 and my mph is like 85 mph this is the 1/8.( the only slip i could find been digusted and throwing them away). I just recently switched to this head and cam combo. Cam was recommended by dss. previously I had afr 185 and a smaller cam and the went 11.60's on motor so spending $1600 on heads and slowing down has been a real bummer. Based on what you all know about my combo what cam would you recommend. I mainly run the the car in the 1/8.
 
I have a transbrake and the nos is set to work at full throttle. However the last 2 times I have the transbrake the nos didnt come in. It works fine if i footbrake the car. But when i footbrake i only get the stall up to about 2700 rpm before the car starts to move. I got have someone go back through the transbrake setup to see where the error is happening with that. And the car is run on 110 or 114 octane racing fuel.
 
You guys are amazing. Thanks for the transbrake info. cant wait to get off work today so i can redue the transbrake. I think im going to increase my stall to a 4500. The company is about 3hours from and the guy said he can change this while i wait if i drive down in the a.m
 
4500 rpm is not going to be fun on the street going to create a ton of heat. Need to make a decision how much Street driving you're going to do it will greatly effect the converter.

If the motor was built around using the nitrous a.k.a bearing clearance and ring gap the he converter really should be based on a nitrous setup. I agree with Clement I don't like that cam way too big for that motor you just don't have enough motor to really support that kind of cam without a lot more compression and a lot more rpm.

Usually when you design a cam to bleed of that much cyl pressure it's because the car Street driven in the compression is questionable. Not exactly perfect but it does work.

What intake manifold is on a car are using a carb spacer what jet size is currently in the 750?

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So you think it would be better to change the cam instead of the stal if so, what cam or specs would you recommend. I have vic jr intake, yes to carb spacer, not sure about jets in carb.