347 Pros/Cons

[DocG]

Hey all! I am seriously considering stroking out my motor this winter. I have found a completely forged setup for about $1600. I already have ignition upgrades, 24lb injectors, the full Systemax setup, 65mm tb, and pretty much all the other bolt-ons. I would probably drop in full length headers too while the motor was out.

A lot of people tell me just to go with a SC....but I'm still leaning to the stroker.

So what would the pros and cons of the stroker be?

What other upgrades might I need based on what I have already? From what I read the Holley intakes would be great for it, the cam and heads seem to work well too.

Thanks!

 

[FoxGT87]

as for my opinion i would say go stroker. i would just keep the compression lower so that if you ever decide to toss boost at it you dont have to tear it down again.

i would definately go and stroke it out! giggidity

 

[DocG]

The kits I'm looking at would be a compression of about 10.5.

With the dished pistons, that could be lowered.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Uh...pros...look at my car?

Cons...life is too short to be a pansy and worry about cons. Stroke it

 

[DocG]

Power baby!

 

[Cobra912]

All pro and no cons. I would do the motor before the blower.

 

[DocG]

My current motor may be beefed up but not sure since I bought it like that. Get a beefy stroker and options open up for huge power down the road!

 

[NIKwoaC]

My logic is that you shouldn't put a lot of money into a stock block setup if boost is in the plans eventually. You can make enough power on boost to split a stock block regardless of what rotating assembly is in it, so why waste the money? If you are forever and ever going to stay NA, I say hell yes go for it. But if you throw boost at a stock block, it's going to break at ~500 rwhp regardless of whether you spent 2500 bucks on a stroker kit or if you spent 250 bucks refreshing a junkyard shortblock.

I also don't see the logic in putting a forged crank that is rated for 900-1200+ hp in a block that will crumble at anything much above 500. I'd seriously consider looking into a cast crank if you plan on staying with the stock block.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

I agree, if you ever plan on going stroker and blower, just do it right and blow a ton of money on an aftermarket block 347 with low compression. Drive that for a while until you get bored and your wallet recovers, then throw a blower on it and you won't have any worries making 600hp.

 

[FoxGT87]

^^^ logic sucks!

 

[ID89GT]

My goal is a 347 with a Kenne Bell

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

^^^ logic sucks!

Yeah, an aftermarket block build can be expensive, but i bet it's less than building 2 stock block strokers after you blow up the first one after putting the blower on it

 

[DocG]

Good advice...thanks fellas! We will see what the budget holds when the time gets closer.

 

[Cobra912]

just remember depending on the kit say it's 280z, you'll need a matching flywheel and balancer (extra cost), plus what would you use for heads?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

My logic is that you shouldn't put a lot of money into a stock block setup if boost is in the plans eventually. You can make enough power on boost to split a stock block regardless of what rotating assembly is in it, so why waste the money? If you are forever and ever going to stay NA, I say hell yes go for it. But if you throw boost at a stock block, it's going to break at ~500 rwhp regardless of whether you spent 2500 bucks on a stroker kit or if you spent 250 bucks refreshing a junkyard shortblock.

I also don't see the logic in putting a forged crank that is rated for 900-1200+ hp in a block that will crumble at anything much above 500. I'd seriously consider looking into a cast crank if you plan on staying with the stock block.

Sound advice ^

With that being said....and with the cost involved in an aftermarket Dart, etc block being what it is, has a 351W swap ever come to mind. Nothing says bad ass like a 427W. .....and it would probably end up costing you about the same in the end.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Mmmmm....a solid lifter late '60s 351W stroked to about 420ish inches and only running a measly 6psi would probably make 600hp if built with the right parts, and it would probably last forever if you kept it under 6k.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Mmmmm....a solid lifter late '60s 351W stroked to about 420ish inches and only running a measly 6psi would probably make 600hp if built with the right parts, and it would probably last forever if you kept it under 6k.

Why would you run solid lifter if you didn't plan on revving it? Hydraulic roller lifters are happy above 6K, and require much less effort. If you're going to run solid lifters, rev the thing a bit and make 600 N/A. You probably wouldn't have to even rev it that much, most 600hp stroked Ws I've seen make peak around 6300-6500rpm.

The old block would require a conversion if you wanted to run roller, though...

The problem with a stroked Windsor (as awesome as it would be) is that all his current top end parts would be pretty much useless, haha.

 

[mwood]

I think there needs to be a discussion of what your goals are and what your budget is. I will always recommend a custom cam. Parts will achieve their maximum potential with a custom cam. Once you have chosen a cam grinder, this discussion needs to be had with him. He will have preferences based on his experience. He will do a better job in his area of expertise. The discussion will range from the motor to the overall setup. A motor is not an island and will only do as well as the setup it is put in. Streetability, type of racing, carb vs FI, budget should all be part of this discussion. Once you have goals, then you can discuss block, rotating assembly, heads, intake, carb, … Likely you will discuss the pros and cons to a 8.2” deck vs a 9.5” deck (302 vs 351), NA vs power adder, and so on. You’ll also want to consider transmission, gearing, suspension, and so on, but this is all pointless till you know your goals and budget.

PS, your budget will be in the thousands and not just a couple. Also must consider who will assemble and install.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Why would you run solid lifter if you didn't plan on revving it? Hydraulic roller lifters are happy above 6K, and require much less effort. If you're going to run solid lifters, rev the thing a bit and make 600 N/A. You probably wouldn't have to even rev it that much, most 600hp stroked Ws I've seen make peak around 6300-6500rpm.

The old block would require a conversion if you wanted to run roller, though...

The problem with a stroked Windsor (as awesome as it would be) is that all his current top end parts would be pretty much useless, haha.

Hush, you're jackin up my daydream

But yeah you're right...wouldn't make much sense to spend all that cash on solid lifters if you didn't use'em.

 

[mwood]

Hush, you're jackin up my daydream

But yeah you're right...wouldn't make much sense to spend all that cash on solid lifters if you didn't use'em.

The lifter is a component of the valvetrain and is very related to the cam chosen. The hydraulic lifter is more streetable where as the solid lifter does require more maintenance but has more potential. Given proper maintenance there is no reason a solid lifter can't spin to 10k, but this is all very specific to the cam.