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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

347 Pros/Cons

  • Thread starter Thread starter DocG
  • Start date Start date Aug 28, 2010
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DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
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Aug 28, 2010
#1
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #1
Hey all! I am seriously considering stroking out my motor this winter. I have found a completely forged setup for about $1600. I already have ignition upgrades, 24lb injectors, the full Systemax setup, 65mm tb, and pretty much all the other bolt-ons. I would probably drop in full length headers too while the motor was out.

A lot of people tell me just to go with a SC....but I'm still leaning to the stroker.

So what would the pros and cons of the stroker be?

What other upgrades might I need based on what I have already? From what I read the Holley intakes would be great for it, the cam and heads seem to work well too.

Thanks!
 
F

FoxGT87

5 Year Member
Aug 1, 2009
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St.pete FL
Aug 28, 2010
#2
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #2
as for my opinion i would say go stroker. i would just keep the compression lower so that if you ever decide to toss boost at it you dont have to tear it down again.

i would definately go and stroke it out! giggidity
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
8,297
1,358
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Cincinnati area
Aug 28, 2010
#3
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #3
The kits I'm looking at would be a compression of about 10.5.

With the dished pistons, that could be lowered.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
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Aug 28, 2010
#4
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #4
Uh...pros...look at my car?

Cons...life is too short to be a pansy and worry about cons. Stroke it
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
8,297
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Aug 28, 2010
#5
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #5
Power baby!
 

Cobra912

Active Member
May 1, 2005
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Aug 28, 2010
#6
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #6
All pro and no cons. I would do the motor before the blower.
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
8,297
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194
Cincinnati area
Aug 28, 2010
#7
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #7
My current motor may be beefed up but not sure since I bought it like that. Get a beefy stroker and options open up for huge power down the road!
 

NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
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Aug 28, 2010
#8
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #8
My logic is that you shouldn't put a lot of money into a stock block setup if boost is in the plans eventually. You can make enough power on boost to split a stock block regardless of what rotating assembly is in it, so why waste the money? If you are forever and ever going to stay NA, I say hell yes go for it. But if you throw boost at a stock block, it's going to break at ~500 rwhp regardless of whether you spent 2500 bucks on a stroker kit or if you spent 250 bucks refreshing a junkyard shortblock.

I also don't see the logic in putting a forged crank that is rated for 900-1200+ hp in a block that will crumble at anything much above 500. I'd seriously consider looking into a cast crank if you plan on staying with the stock block.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
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Aug 28, 2010
#9
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #9
I agree, if you ever plan on going stroker and blower, just do it right and blow a ton of money on an aftermarket block 347 with low compression. Drive that for a while until you get bored and your wallet recovers, then throw a blower on it and you won't have any worries making 600hp.
 
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FoxGT87

5 Year Member
Aug 1, 2009
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Aug 29, 2010
#10
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #10
^^^ logic sucks!
 

ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
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49
Spokane Valley, WA
Aug 29, 2010
#11
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #11
My goal is a 347 with a Kenne Bell
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
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Aug 30, 2010
#12
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #12
FoxGT87 said:
^^^ logic sucks!
Click to expand...

Yeah, an aftermarket block build can be expensive, but i bet it's less than building 2 stock block strokers after you blow up the first one after putting the blower on it
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
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Cincinnati area
Aug 30, 2010
#13
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #13
Good advice...thanks fellas! We will see what the budget holds when the time gets closer.
 

Cobra912

Active Member
May 1, 2005
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Aug 30, 2010
#14
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #14
just remember depending on the kit say it's 280z, you'll need a matching flywheel and balancer (extra cost), plus what would you use for heads?
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
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Ontario, Canada
Aug 30, 2010
#15
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #15
NikwoaC said:
My logic is that you shouldn't put a lot of money into a stock block setup if boost is in the plans eventually. You can make enough power on boost to split a stock block regardless of what rotating assembly is in it, so why waste the money? If you are forever and ever going to stay NA, I say hell yes go for it. But if you throw boost at a stock block, it's going to break at ~500 rwhp regardless of whether you spent 2500 bucks on a stroker kit or if you spent 250 bucks refreshing a junkyard shortblock.

I also don't see the logic in putting a forged crank that is rated for 900-1200+ hp in a block that will crumble at anything much above 500. I'd seriously consider looking into a cast crank if you plan on staying with the stock block.
Click to expand...

Sound advice ^

With that being said....and with the cost involved in an aftermarket Dart, etc block being what it is, has a 351W swap ever come to mind. Nothing says bad ass like a 427W. .....and it would probably end up costing you about the same in the end.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
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Aug 30, 2010
#16
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #16
Mmmmm....a solid lifter late '60s 351W stroked to about 420ish inches and only running a measly 6psi would probably make 600hp if built with the right parts, and it would probably last forever if you kept it under 6k.
 

NIKwoaC

中國製造
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Oct 31, 2006
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#17
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #17
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Mmmmm....a solid lifter late '60s 351W stroked to about 420ish inches and only running a measly 6psi would probably make 600hp if built with the right parts, and it would probably last forever if you kept it under 6k.
Click to expand...

Why would you run solid lifter if you didn't plan on revving it? Hydraulic roller lifters are happy above 6K, and require much less effort. If you're going to run solid lifters, rev the thing a bit and make 600 N/A. You probably wouldn't have to even rev it that much, most 600hp stroked Ws I've seen make peak around 6300-6500rpm.

The old block would require a conversion if you wanted to run roller, though...

The problem with a stroked Windsor (as awesome as it would be) is that all his current top end parts would be pretty much useless, haha.
 
M

mwood

Member
May 9, 2008
177
0
16
Aug 30, 2010
#18
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #18
I think there needs to be a discussion of what your goals are and what your budget is. I will always recommend a custom cam. Parts will achieve their maximum potential with a custom cam. Once you have chosen a cam grinder, this discussion needs to be had with him. He will have preferences based on his experience. He will do a better job in his area of expertise. The discussion will range from the motor to the overall setup. A motor is not an island and will only do as well as the setup it is put in. Streetability, type of racing, carb vs FI, budget should all be part of this discussion. Once you have goals, then you can discuss block, rotating assembly, heads, intake, carb, … Likely you will discuss the pros and cons to a 8.2” deck vs a 9.5” deck (302 vs 351), NA vs power adder, and so on. You’ll also want to consider transmission, gearing, suspension, and so on, but this is all pointless till you know your goals and budget.

PS, your budget will be in the thousands and not just a couple. Also must consider who will assemble and install.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
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Northern KY
Aug 30, 2010
#19
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #19
NikwoaC said:
Why would you run solid lifter if you didn't plan on revving it? Hydraulic roller lifters are happy above 6K, and require much less effort. If you're going to run solid lifters, rev the thing a bit and make 600 N/A. You probably wouldn't have to even rev it that much, most 600hp stroked Ws I've seen make peak around 6300-6500rpm.

The old block would require a conversion if you wanted to run roller, though...

The problem with a stroked Windsor (as awesome as it would be) is that all his current top end parts would be pretty much useless, haha.
Click to expand...

Hush, you're jackin up my daydream

But yeah you're right...wouldn't make much sense to spend all that cash on solid lifters if you didn't use'em.
 
M

mwood

Member
May 9, 2008
177
0
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Aug 30, 2010
#20
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #20
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Hush, you're jackin up my daydream

But yeah you're right...wouldn't make much sense to spend all that cash on solid lifters if you didn't use'em.
Click to expand...

The lifter is a component of the valvetrain and is very related to the cam chosen. The hydraulic lifter is more streetable where as the solid lifter does require more maintenance but has more potential. Given proper maintenance there is no reason a solid lifter can't spin to 10k, but this is all very specific to the cam.
 
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