This is one of those things that really needs to die. Coolant does NOT need to stay in a radiator longer to cool, that is not true. Coolant staying in a radiator also means it’s staying at the source of heat, ie the engine. Never in history has less coolant flow through an automotive cooling system led to cooler temps.Keep in mind that the coolant must remain in the radiator for long enough to get cooled
Agreed, but have had this argument too many times. Faster moving coolant through the radiator means that it does not stay in the radiator. If it 'sat' there, it would drop in temp, compared to the water behind it, and that would reduce the temp differential vs. ambient/outside air temps. Less temp differential means that less thermal transfer is happening to ambient, which is a bad thing if you're trying to get heat out.This is one of those things that really needs to die. Coolant does NOT need to stay in a radiator longer to cool, that is not true. Coolant staying in a radiator also means it’s staying at the source of heat, ie the engine. Never in history has less coolant flow through an automotive cooling system led to cooler temps.
Ill make this dead simple for you for the least amount of money... go buy a pack of radiator ties. Dismount your fans from the shroud, remount the fans without the shroud using the ties... Go drive it... be amazed. Your old combo could of had a shot fan clutch and a clogged up radiator, still doesn't change the fact that fan design was made by a moron and sold as a performance upgrade when it isn'tThank you everyone for taking the time to post your suggestions!
I just wanted to clarify that everything cooling system related is brand new as I replaced it all when I rebuilt the engine.
A lot of you are focused on my electric fan/shroud setup as being the issue, I mentioned earlier that I had the exact same issue with my stock clutch fan/shroud combo. I decided then to upgrade to to the LMR aluminum rad and add the fan/shroud combo. I have a Ryobi laser thermometer and seem to get erratic readings when I check various points, I have one at work that seems much better, I'm going to bring it home this week to compare.
The Holley coolant temp sensor is mounted as per the instructions in the metal tube from the front of the intake manifold that runs to the heater core, never mentioned anything in the Holley instructions of having to calibrate a temp sender.
Timing was checked and verified as per the Holley instructions with a timing light at 10 degrees.
False! Allowing the coolant to sit in the radiator causes hot spots in the heads and passages. I live in Phoenix and a high flow water pump has helped bring down my coolant temps on every Mustang I've owned. My recipe in the past has been:Agreed, but have had this argument too many times. Faster moving coolant through the radiator means that it does not stay in the radiator. If it 'sat' there, it would drop in temp, compared to the water behind it, and that would reduce the temp differential vs. ambient/outside air temps. Less temp differential means that less thermal transfer is happening to ambient, which is a bad thing if you're trying to get heat out.
Except, as far as I understood your comments, you agreed with me. I am saying that the higher the flow the gooder...False!
My apologies. My reply was meant for manicmechanic007.Except, as far as I understood your comments, you agreed with me. I am saying that the higher the flow the gooder...
The 195° t-stat opens later to allow the engine to get up to operating temp. Folks pass on the myth that these cars need to run as cool as the old carbureted engines. This is not true. On the 94-95 cars; the low speed fan comes on around 220° from the factory. Just a FYI for everyone.I think you guys are almost agreeing. I think you guys are arguing about 180 vs. 195 tstat. There is a sweet spot. I know others who say 195 tstat actually runs cooler, because of some extra time in the radiator. I think at 180 tstat is open all the time. Sometimes during driving there needs to exist a time for some heat to be pulled away from the engine and cooled before returning. High flow water pump also helps by keeping things moving. Most aftermarket water pumps have somewhat increased fin design based on advances in technology. So by using a ou also agree that sometimes coolant needs time to chill, otherwise you would be using a 180 degree tstat. If a stuck open thermostat was extremely benficial, everyone would be using stuck open thermostats from the factory and they would be stuck open all the time. In order to benefit from a 180 degree thermostat you need corresponding mods that would make it beneficial.
So, guys... relatively easy to test yourself. Pull out the t-stat and see what happens. Assuming your radiator has more capacity than it's already providing, the engine will never get to normal operating temps. I can personally confirm having recently done this - see my build thread on Black Jack.
On the note about what t-stat to select, this one is reasonably straightforward, too. The advantage in acceleration is going to the lower temp t-stat, because the EEC-IV, or at least the A9L, pulls timing at higher temps.
The best reason I've heard to select a 195 is based upon the fact that the oil will reach the boiling point of water, which allows water, the natural byproduct of combustion, to be boiled off and evacuated from the oil. Oil typically runs ~20+ degrees hotter than the coolant, and of course, in certain parts of the engine it will run hotter than its measured temps. Take away? Oil reaching designed temps is a good thing for longevity.
That has nothing to do with it staying in the radiator, it’s the thermostat helping keep pressure in the block reducing hot spots.Some of you have bad information I guess (96 pushrod)
Take your thermostat out and watch it overheat
As far as high temps and performance
Why do you suppose a 69 Boss 302 calls for a 214 degree thermostat?
The 214* stat was for the emissions, higher temp, cleaner burn.Some of you have bad information I guess (96 pushrod)
Take your thermostat out and watch it overheat
As far as high temps and performance
Why do you suppose a 69 Boss 302 calls for a 214 degree thermostat?
I did this 2 days ago. I reinstalled a 185* T-stat after not running one. Temp gauge went from bottom to mid gauge.Some of you have bad information I guess (96 pushrod)
Take your thermostat out and watch it overheat
As far as high temps and performance
Why do you suppose a 69 Boss 302 calls for a 214 degree thermostat?
My goodness, that’s impossible!I did this 2 days ago. I reinstalled a 185* T-stat after not running one. Temp gauge went from bottom to mid gauge.
Probably right where it should be.I did this 2 days ago. I reinstalled a 185* T-stat after not running one. Temp gauge went from bottom to mid gauge.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?